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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I'm looking at upgrading my wheels and I'd like to build them myself.. My plan was to get a truing stand and use it to slack off and re-tighten my current wheels a few times first before I built a new set.

I can't see myself doing this too often though so I don't really want to spend hundreds on a truing stand to use it twice and put it away.. Thought about a ghetto DIY one (from an old fork) but still gotta get the parts.

Has anyone used one of these mega cheap ones off ebay and if so, are they good enough to do one or two sets of wheels on then throw away?

Cheers
 

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Always in the wrong gear
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I built my own out of a 14" square of wood and $30 worth of angle bracket. I used some all-thread and a few nuts for the axle that holds the hub. There's a wooden arm with a long bolt capped with a plastic nut to gauge true-ness.

I've built two sets of wheels with this and trued a dozen more.

I will admit, I had to get the new wheels 'close to done' and then final dish them in the bike frame using some tape marked as 'centerline' between the stays or fork legs.
It's ghetto, but it works well enough for me, accomplishes the job and saved me $160 per wheelset, accounting for the lack of cost of labor and being able to get spokes for .95 each on eBay vs $2 each at my LBS.


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info! I looked at DIY-ing it but couldn't really picture a solution that would come out under $55 (the price of the ebay one).. I still *might* DIY but considering I'll probably build one set of wheels then never use it again the extra time investment might be what makes me say 'stuff it' and just pay a bike shop to do it lol

I might have most of those bits in the shed already tho..... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Actually just wondering do you have a sleeve to turn your threaded rod into an 'axle' or do you just let the wheel spin on the bearings on the rod? The part that I thought might end up costing me a fortune to DIY was mounting the axle properly so that the hub is perfectly level...

How'd you do that bit?

Thanks
 

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Always in the wrong gear
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The threaded rod and wing nuts pinches the uprights and holds the end caps the exact same way a through-axle or quick release skewer does.
The hub is spinning on its bearings just like it does on the bike

I spaced the uprights to accommodate a 148mm boost rear wheel, so I used 1” pvc spacers to ‘boostinate’ the front wheel in the picture from 15x110 to 15x148 as if it were locked into fork legs


To answer your original question of ‘Why not a pre-made stand?’

Because I looked at those too and my understanding is that they’re all made for 26” wheels and won’t fit a 29” with a tire on it, especially not the monster 29x3.0 XR4 seen in the picture above.

They also seem to mostly be intended to be used with wheels that have quick release skewers. Resting a 15 or 12mm through axle perched on top of the little forks seemed dubious for accuracy of truing



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The axle needs to fit into the notches at the top. For a normal 5mm QR wheel the axle nubs of the hub fit into the stand notches. For thru axles, you can use the axle off your bike/fork and have that rest in the notches. The notches need to be big enough to accommodate your biggest axle, typically 15mm. The wheel is held centered by adjusting one or the other, or both arms to press inward. There are some single sided truing stands where a nut on a special axle does this.

Some stands have hemispheres or cones mounted inside the arms that press into the through axle holes in the hub to hold the wheel.

A stand needs to be robust enough to not flop around or go out of alignment when working on the wheel. A good stand comes in handy for periodic truing of wheels, taping and re-taping rims, replacing a spoke, etc...
 
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