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Going to replace the Talas on the Bronson with a 160mm Pike. I see lots of you have them. I'm looking for a starting point on settings. I realize there are a few variables that will make the settings different for various riding styles and terrains, just hoping to find a good place to start dialing it in from. I'm about 200 lbs geared up. Thanks.
 

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Going to replace the Talas on the Bronson with a 160mm Pike. I see lots of you have them. I'm looking for a starting point on settings. I realize there are a few variables that will make the settings different for various riding styles and terrains, just hoping to find a good place to start dialing it in from. I'm about 200 lbs geared up. Thanks.
So right away add one red token under the air cap....non drive side. Allowing you to run lower pressure with no bottom out.
 

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Sag at 30% using the markings on the stanchions (175lb, at 95psi which is about 5lb lighter than the RockShox table suggests), rebound a click or two towards faster rebound from the middle, and low speed compression is right about in the middle. Have not used any tokens.
 

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1 Token for me. Bottomed out way too easy without any tokens and felt like crap with two tokens. I think I'm 4 clicks from full fast on the rebound and 4 clicks of low speed compression. Roughly 25% sag. I'm at 200lbs in gear and ride more FR/DH.
 

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175 lbs geared
22.5% sag
4 clicks low speed rebound damping
6 clicks low speed compression damping
No tokens
160mm version main use mix of AM FR and DH
Use trail mode for jump lines (prevents over-compression on steep lipped jumps) or flow trails with lots of berms like Sandy Ridge.

Keep in mind the lower your travel (or the more you weigh), the more need for tokens you will have. For instance, a 150mm version with the same sag as a 160mm version will have a greater need for a token to prevent bottoming as there is less distance to go before bottoming with the exact same amount of air chamber volume (only the length of the lower rod is changed in the Pike for the different length travel variations).

I've done a TON of playing around with these and find the tokens to be a detriment in the 160 version unless you're a heavy weight. It performs best with a stiffer straight rate (you will give up some small bump compliance), otherwise you'll blow thru the travel too quickly (fork will dive at lower pressures) and then the fork really ramps up hard and harsh on the bigger hits when using the tokens. Also I found it strange that the charger damper needs such little LSR damping to work well. I've never been able to run a fork with such little rebound damping ever and probably wouldn't have even tried until I found that tip on Pinkbike but it really works great!

Have FUN!

G MAN

PS - Do NOT go by PSI recommendations as those air pumps have a variance of about +or- 5 psi (not at all accurate). You need to go by SAG level when on the bike in attack mode (standing and balanced for my style of riding).
 

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Just finished my Bronson Build and have come from 2013 Fox 34's on my old bike where I was using a lot of damping but Pikes running about 3 clicks on LSC and six on rebound. I've used pedal setting and climb setting now and then but get a bit of initial freeplay and knock sensation in the first 10mm of travel but read somewhere this is normal on pikes?? just run it open all the time which is fine for me
 

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I've used pedal setting and climb setting now and then but get a bit of initial freeplay and knock sensation in the first 10mm of travel but read somewhere this is normal on pikes?? just run it open all the time which is fine for me
Yes, normal. The Pike's negative spring is such in order to avoid "stiction" issues at travel initiation so you can feel some top out knock when climbing at times in that fist 10mm travel.

Have FUN!

G MAN
 

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175 lbs geared
22.5% sag
4 clicks low speed rebound damping
6 clicks low speed compression damping
No tokens
160mm version main use mix of AM FR and DH
Use trail mode for jump lines (prevents over-compression on steep lipped jumps) or flow trails with lots of berms like Sandy Ridge.

Keep in mind the lower your travel (or the more you weigh), the more need for tokens you will have. For instance, a 150mm version with the same sag as a 160mm version will have a greater need for a token to prevent bottoming as there is less distance to go before bottoming with the exact same amount of air chamber volume (only the length of the lower rod is changed in the Pike for the different length travel variations).

I've done a TON of playing around with these and find the tokens to be a detriment in the 160 version unless you're a heavy weight. It performs best with a stiffer straight rate (you will give up some small bump compliance), otherwise you'll blow thru the travel too quickly (fork will dive at lower pressures) and then the fork really ramps up hard and harsh on the bigger hits when using the tokens. Also I found it strange that the charger damper needs such little LSR damping to work well. I've never been able to run a fork with such little rebound damping ever and probably wouldn't have even tried until I found that tip on Pinkbike but it really works great!

Have FUN!

G MAN

PS - Do NOT go by PSI recommendations as those air pumps have a variance of about +or- 5 psi (not at all accurate). You need to go by SAG level when on the bike in attack mode (standing and balanced for my style of riding).
I know this is an old thread, found it while searching for pike setting etc..

Got say, running my Pike as you suggested its like running a new fork! amazing.. never thought to run it with rebound almost fully out.. but only have 4 clicks in on rebound and 5 on compression, feels like I got the fork revalved.

Great info, cheers
 
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