Some guys just hang the broken frames up in the garage and look at them from time to time and reminisce. That breaking at the seat post deal was the fate of many Klein Rascals. My 1993 has escaped that one for now and will be going back into hibercyclenation in the storage shed to fly again at a later date now that the Lynskey is back in business! No second chances for aluminum!Nice to know. Last month, I gave away to a metal recycler my comped 1994 Clark Kent F 12 because of a twice fixed (by Clark Kent) crack in the seat tube/top tube joint.
Broke my heart, but it was more to fix than the frame was worth. Because the crack was at the joint and spread to the top tube, it would have been a seat tube, top tube replacement, plus all the welds for the existing head/down tubes.
Clark Kent made a lot of their frames with straight gauge tubing in the seat tube and didn't add internal collars in the seat/top tube joints. Us taller guys (6'1'') had to run the seat post fairly high in those days putting a lot of stress on the joints.
I put on my straight face and handed it over to a local guy who recycles metal.
Well first let me say that I feel the same way you do about the Ti frames. My Lynskey was making noise on the climb up Kennedy and I sort of knew it was broken as it was a loud creaking. Probably cracked on the way down the ride before I'm guessing. The welder said it was welded with too thin of a bead so it cracked in the weld. There is some good flex in the Lynskey. My old aluminum Klein Rascal is twice as stiff.Oh, BTW AR, how/when did you discover the crack?
That maybe a daily rental type of weld. I hate to be critical but that weld doesn't look like it will last out the first ride. I bet if you sent it back to the manufacturer they would have done it right. I had a Merlin XLM that cracked in the same spot......Merlin aka Litespeed replaced the head tube. It was just like day one of it's life......mind you it cost $400 but well worth it.Usually you grind out the old weld first. Looks like your "lease" is more like month to month!
Dang, that saddle weld looks strong indeed. Eddie said the original weld was too thin of a bead and it did break right through the middle of the original weld. I will bet the next break should one happen will be somewhere other than the repair weld.
I'm lead manufacturing engineer for a group of weld engineers...........I can tell you the first weld inspection method is visual. And that weld doesn't pass.
Well, I don't think he is going to xray it or bust out the ultrasonic gear, or cut it in half....Time will tell.I'm lead manufacturing engineer for a group of weld engineers...........I can tell you the first weld inspection method is visual. And that weld doesn't pass.