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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will be building a BC in a few weeks when my frameset is in. I am setting it up as 1X with 27.5 wheels, 2.4" tires.

I am totally befuddled about rear hubs. The spec is for a rear hub spacing of 138mm +/- 3 mm. (Some sort of "boost" spec many people are upset about)

I understand this to mean that it will take either 135mm or 141MM hubs. I cannot find 141mm hubs but plenty of 135mm hubs.
Will my choice of hub limit my choice of 1X group sets? I am looking at 32H Velocity Blunt rims.

(I have spent waaaay too much time trying to find the obvious rear hub solution)

Should I be looking at 1X11 or 1X12? What are the medium to low price options? SRAM? Deore?
What freehubs are compatible with 1X cassettes? 11s? 10s?

I hear of boost cranks, do I need this?

Can anyone recommend gear ratios? I plan on using this for longish single day (60+ mile) gravel rides over Oregon rough gravel logging roads (potato sized at times) and probably commute on it too. Perhaps an occasional overnighter with medium loads.

Thank you for the advice/experience.

Rich
 

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Drivetrain options....not sure if you looked at the Microshift Advent X group. It’s 10 speed with an 11-48 cassette. I’ve been running it in my Wednesday since December of last year and I’m very happy with it. Cassette, derailleur, and shift can be had for about $165.

135mm rear hub is a pretty common quick release hub and you will be fine with it. Also, don’t worry about Boost cranks, those are for optimal chain line on a bike with 148mm rear spacing.

As far as gear ratios, I’d start at a 30t chainring and go from there. My Wednesday that I have setup 29+ for bikepacking is 30t with the 11-48 Microshift cassette. My Straggler that I use for gravel rides around the house is 42t with an 11-42 cassette.
 

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Edit: Just want to say that Brad In a Van is right. You can use a 135mm QR hub in a bridge club with a 1x system. Surly's frame spec indicates a max 1x chainring of 34t mtn (presume this is 49mm chainline (135QR rear hub)) or 40t boost (52mm chainline (141AR rear hub)). Surly specs their 700C BC with boost cranks (52 chainline) and rear hub (141QR), but it seems it was not required. I'm not really sure. Just want to help here without providing bad info. If you look at Shimano 1x systems, the 1x cranks are boost (52mm chainline), 55mm chainline, or 56.5mm chainline, thus my comment below about wanting a boost setup, but if you are savvy and want to use a 135QR hub and 1x cranks on a non-boost setup to save money/avoid the 141QR hub lack of availability, It seems entirely possible if you get the right arrangement of parts. I think it boils down to making sure the chainring size at the chainline you select (49mm, 52mm boost) fits the bike (frame spec), that the rear hub puts your cassette at the location for optical chainline (135QRwide hub for 49mm or 141QRwide hub for 52mm), and that your tire width fits a given chainline. Still seems to me a boost crank/rear hub w/ microspline with the M6100 deore 12speed drive drain is a reasonably affordable quality way to go. Sorry if I started putting limitation here that don't exist.


Just built a set of 27.5 wheels for my 700c BC. I may be able to help. Search "understanding chainline for 1x optimal conversions". I think you want a boost crank and boost rear hub for your 1x drivetrain, but maybe not. Presuming you do, read on.

Boost rear hub for thru axel is 148 wide and for quick release (QR) it's 141 because how its measured (QR measured OLD, over lock nut dimension). Surly names their drop outs gnot boost as a joke because they space the drop outs in between non-boost and boost and the steel frame nicely flexes in or out to accommodate either, so it's gnot (not boost, but it is). There are very few affordable QR 141 hubs. I bought a cheap altus rear hub (about 30 bucks) that utilizes shimano's standard HG freehub for the cassette, allowing for an 11 speed 1X system. I did this to be compatible with the 11 speed 1X system that came on my bike because I want to be able to use both wheel sets (700c that came with bike and new 27.5). There is also a shimano rear hub that's about $60 that uses shimano's micro spline freehub that should accommodate a 12-speed 1x drivetrain. If I was in your shoes, I would be gunning for the $60 hub and a 12 speed deore 1X system that uses microspline. The deore M6100 group it's supposed to be a very good value. If you're going to ride 60 miles on really rough road, you may like wider tires and the bridge club can accommodate 2.8 wide tires without fenders, or 2.6 wide tires with fenders. I put wtb tough ranger 2.8wide tires on wtb kom tough 35i wide rims and am pretty happy. 35 wide rims goes either way, while 29 might be optimized for 2.4 and 40-45 may be optimized for 2.8.

If you truly want 2.4 wide tires and a Shimano HG free hub is compatible with the drivetrain you want, search for this number with Google 708752283831.

I bought the wheel set from universal cycles.com. if you go into their custom wheel set builder, you can select the rear hub width of 141. You will see two Shimano hubs, one has the standard HG free hub (altus) and one has the microspline free hub (I can't discern what group it comes from but it may be deore). my not well researched understanding is that the microspline hub is higher quality. It also accommodates the deore m6100 cassette which requires microspline freehub.

Suggest you search for bikepacking.com gear inches and read their articles about gear ratio. My bridge club has a 32 chainring and 11 to 51 on the back, which gives it a really low gear for climbing hills. If you're doing mostly flat stuff, the 11 to 46 will give you more choice in the middle of the gear range. FYI the 11 tooth gear is limited by shimano's standard HG free hub, a dead giveaway that it's a micro-spline cassette is that microspline allows for a 10 tooth gear.

deore m6100 (not m6120) crank, shifter, derailleur, cassette on microspline shimano freehub type rear wheel hub would be my recommendation. Ironically the way I found your post was searching for microshift (another poster recommended) part numbers for my child's bike upgrade. That might be a good option if you're trying to be more affordable and use the standard HG freehub low cost wheel I provided the part number for above. You could also build a custom wheel set with the cheap altus hub and the HG free body at universal cycles.

If you want a high quality rear hub you can buy adapters that will make them fit in a quick release 141 bike, but you're looking at several hundred dollars plus just to buy The hub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just built a set of 27.5 wheels for my 700c BC. I may be able to help. Search "understanding chainline for 1x optimal conversions". I think you want a boost crank and boost rear hub for your 1x drivetrain, but maybe not. Presuming you do, read on.

Boost rear hub for thru axel is 148 wide and for quick release (QR) it's 141 because how its measured (QR measured OLD, over lock nut dimension). Surly names their drop outs gnot boost as a joke because they space the drop outs in between non-boost and boost and the steel frame nicely flexes in or out to accommodate either, so it's gnot (not boost, but it is). There are very few affordable QR 141 hubs. I bought a cheap altus rear hub (about 30 bucks) that utilizes shimano's standard HG freehub for the cassette, allowing for an 11 speed 1X system. I did this to be compatible with the 11 speed 1X system that came on my bike because I want to be able to use both wheel sets (700c that came with bike and new 27.5). There is also a shimano rear hub that's about $60 that uses shimano's micro spline freehub that should accommodate a 12-speed 1x drivetrain. If I was in your shoes, I would be gunning for the $60 hub and a 12 speed deore 1X system that uses microspline. The deore M6100 group it's supposed to be a very good value. If you're going to ride 60 miles on really rough road, you may like wider tires and the bridge club can accommodate 2.8 wide tires without fenders, or 2.6 wide tires with fenders. I put wtb tough ranger 2.8wide tires on wtb kom tough 35i wide rims and am pretty happy. 35 wide rims goes either way, while 29 might be optimized for 2.4 and 40-45 may be optimized for 2.8.

If you truly want 2.4 wide tires and a Shimano HG free hub is compatible with the drivetrain you want, search for this number with Google 708752283831.

I bought the wheel set from universal cycles.com. if you go into their custom wheel set builder, you can select the rear hub width of 141. You will see two Shimano hubs, one has the standard HG free hub (altus) and one has the microspline free hub (I can't discern what group it comes from but it may be deore). my not well researched understanding is that the microspline hub is higher quality. It also accommodates the deore m6100 cassette which requires microspline freehub.

Suggest you search for bikepacking.com gear inches and read their articles about gear ratio. My bridge club has a 32 chainring and 11 to 51 on the back, which gives it a really low gear for climbing hills. If you're doing mostly flat stuff, the 11 to 46 will give you more choice in the middle of the gear range. FYI the 11 tooth gear is limited by shimano's standard HG free hub, a dead giveaway that it's a micro-spline cassette is that microspline allows for a 10 tooth gear.

deore m6100 (not m6120) crank, shifter, derailleur, cassette on microspline shimano freehub type rear wheel hub would be my recommendation. Ironically the way I found your post was searching for microshift (another poster recommended) part numbers for my child's bike upgrade. That might be a good option if you're trying to be more affordable and use the standard HG freehub low cost wheel I provided the part number for above. You could also build a custom wheel set with the cheap altus hub and the HG free body at universal cycles.

If you want a high quality rear hub you can buy adapters that will make them fit in a quick release 141 bike, but you're looking at several hundred dollars plus just to buy The hub.
Holy crap, Thank you so much! This is the most helpful information (by far) that I have seen. There is so much to absorb here. I am going to explore all of this and let you know what I decide. The Deore 6100 looks like a great option and I really like the idea of going 12s. Your explanation of the "gnot boost" makes perfect sense. Surly should copy and pste your text onto their website. I have looked at those wheels (708752283831) but, if I understand you correctly, they use the HG hub which would limit me to 11s. I will explore the Universal cycle wheel builder.

Thank you again. I will definitely report back with what I discover.

Rich
 

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You are quite welcome. Twas frustrating trying to learn all that.

Also butted spokes (slimmer cross section in middle of spoke) will give you a more robust wheel. The thin section stretches more under tension and reduces the chance you get repeated and REVERSED fatigue in the material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You are quite welcome. Twas frustrating trying to learn all that.

Also butted spokes (slimmer cross section in middle of spoke) will give you a more robust wheel. The thin section stretches more under tension and reduces the chance you get repeated and REVERSED fatigue in the material.
OK, thanks for that. I have toyed with the idea of building my own wheels as I often enjoy that sort of pain. But, after comparing the prices (At Universal) between built wheels and wheel components, I have to ask myself what my time is worth....
 

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Yeah... M5100 deore 11sp uses HG hub. M6100 uses microspline. My motivation is that I think the microspline Shimano hub is probably a good low mid-range option versus the cheap altus hub with HG. I do believe you could get an m6100 derailleur and use it with a 12-speed off brand cassette on an HG hub (not certain but I think you would need the HG hub that is deeper cut by 1.8 mm for a 12-speed, and it may not probably does not exist so I'm probably wrong. My 700c OEM HG hub has more spline interface length on the HG hub then the altus so I had to remove the spacer behind the cassette), the problem being that the HG freehubs come on really cheap wheel hubs in QR 141. I was forced down this route because I wanted to stay compatible with my existing wheel set, but you are free as a bird. one could argue you should spend a few hundred more and get a really good rear hub, but I don't understand the quality and durability space to make a recommendation between the altus hg hub, the microspline hub (60 bucks), and a high-end hub. my rationale is that something in the middle usually doesn't disappoint too bad.

You also need to read about six hole rotors or centerlock rotors. Both the Shimano Hubs use centerlock spline brake rotors, but you can buy centerlock to six hole adapters or just by center lock brake rotors.
 

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Has anyone just gone ahead with a 142 mm through axle hub on a BC? It's only 1 mm more than the wacky 141 mm spacing and there are a bunch of wheel options available, including the tough "hybrid" MTB options (for ebikes, known a hybrid bikes in Europe).

If cromolly can stretch 3 mm, it can stretch 4 mm without a problem.
 

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Has anyone just gone ahead with a 142 mm through axle hub on a BC? It's only 1 mm more than the wacky 141 mm spac
Holy crap, Thank you so much! This is the most helpful information (by far) that I have seen. There is so much to absorb here. I am going to explore all of this and let you know what I decide. The Deore 6100 looks like a great option and I really like the idea of going 12s. Your explanation of the "gnot boost" makes perfect sense. Surly should copy and pste your text onto their website. I have looked at those wheels (708752283831) but, if I understand you correctly, they use the HG hub which would limit me to 11s. I will explore the Universal cycle wheel builder.

Thank you again. I will definitely report back with what I discover.

Rich
Holy crap, Thank you so much! This is the most helpful information (by far) that I have seen. There is so much to absorb here. I am going to explore all of this and let you know what I decide. The Deore 6100 looks like a great option and I really like the idea of going 12s. Your explanation of the "gnot boost" makes perfect sense. Surly should copy and pste your text onto their website. I have looked at those wheels (708752283831) but, if I understand you correctly, they use the HG hub which would limit me to 11s. I will explore the Universal cycle wheel builder.

Thank you again. I will definitely report back with what I discover.

Rich
Hi. I edited my original post at the top. Please read what I wrote. Thanks.
 

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The issue will be the axle will be a different diameter and clamping mechanism. The 135/141 is made for a QR axle (9mm diameter) (or is it 10mm in the rear?), while the 142mm is made for a 12mm through axle. The two won't interchange.

Has anyone just gone ahead with a 142 mm through axle hub on a BC? It's only 1 mm more than the wacky 141 mm spacing and there are a bunch of wheel options available, including the tough "hybrid" MTB options (for ebikes, known a hybrid bikes in Europe).

If cromolly can stretch 3 mm, it can stretch 4 mm without a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just checking in. I have the hubs in hand, a Shimano FH-MT500-B Rear Hub and a Shimano XT HB-M8000 Front Hub. I waited to order spokes until I had the hubs to measure to make sure the dimensions match those in the spoke calculator I am using. I also have the WTB i35 27.5 tough rims.
 

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It may be better quality than realized. Just unbranded for oems primarily? Thanks for the pictures, excited to see your bike when you get it finished. I've been thrashing around on my altus hub and it's been doing well.
 

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The issue will be the axle will be a different diameter and clamping mechanism. The 135/141 is made for a QR axle (9mm diameter) (or is it 10mm in the rear?), while the 142mm is made for a 12mm through axle. The two won't interchange.
This is good info. I think I was under the impression that 141 hubs were somehow connected to 148 mm boost? Thanks for clarifying that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Not terribly so but it is definitely a skill. I had a friend with a Parks truing stand and a dishing gauge (Definitely need this). Park-style spoke tension gauges are cheap now. On one hand it is hard to juggle all the interacting variables, runout in lateral, radial, dish, and spoke tension. On the other hand the wheel responds very clearly to whatever you change.
The online spoke length calculator was spot on. You have to pay extra to get spoke lengths within 1mm, which I did. That was unnecessary, next time I will just round down as they were near the top of the nipple.

I am sure they are not as good as they could be but the remaining run-outs are very tiny and all the tensions are close and in spec according to the charts.
I am happy to know that I can do this, I am now looking into changing the rims on my CX/gravel bike as they are way too narrow.

Rich
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
LBS is reporting that there are 2 (Two!) Bridge Club framesets available in the entire country so my chances of getting one is slim. They think they can get an Ogre FS, more than I wanted to spend and not compatible with my rear hub I don't think. :-(

LBS managed to snag a frameset! Woo Hoo!

Rich
 
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