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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a 2013 Hardrock Disk. This will be my 4th rear hub and the LBS has now told me I need a different bike.

What floors me is I'm breaking these things following my kid on his 16" Huffy. I have about 3 outings on this last hub.

A little bent about the third hub I headed to the bike shop. I tell them my story and they inform me that the next drop in updrade is the Shimano XT hub. I look at them and ask them if they seriously think it will last longer then 3 rides. They say it is better but with the way I'm riding and with my my weight it may not. I ask them for what will keep me from coming in and they come out with a $300 set of wheels. I grunt and agree to stepping up as long as it is a stronger hub. They tell me that they don't have the adapters for my bike but, "We'll make it work", I stopped them their. I told them I don't want to make it work I want it right. Now comes the "need a different bike" and they start to show me some other bikes.

I told them I would think about it and left with nothing.

Now after a little internet searching I find out the bikes they showed me have the same axle type as mine. Trust is now out the window.

I do understand the concept that going slower takes the rolling advantage out and I put more torque on the wheel hub; But do I really need a different frame to take advantage of a tougher wheel hub?

I have been bitten and I've been bottoming out the front fork, so an upgrade may be necessary. But I would have considered just upgrading the components over the entire bike. Cost effectiveness isn't as important as upgrade ability; I come from the 4 wheeling community, I've put thousand dollar components into hundred dollar rigs to achieve my goals.

That being said:

From a mechanical perspective, when do upgrades truely warrant a frame change?
 

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The Fastest of Bananas
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Have a 2013 Hardrock Disk. This will be my 4th rear hub and the LBS has now told me I need a different bike.

What floors me is I'm breaking these things following my kid on his 16" Huffy. I have about 3 outings on this last hub.

A little bent about the third hub I headed to the bike shop. I tell them my story and they inform me that the next drop in updrade is the Shimano XT hub. I look at them and ask them if they seriously think it will last longer then 3 rides. They say it is better but with the way I'm riding and with my my weight it may not. I ask them for what will keep me from coming in and they come out with a $300 set of wheels. I grunt and agree to stepping up as long as it is a stronger hub. They tell me that they don't have the adapters for my bike but, "We'll make it work", I stopped them their. I told them I don't want to make it work I want it right. Now comes the "need a different bike" and they start to show me some other bikes.

I told them I would think about it and left with nothing.

Now after a little internet searching I find out the bikes they showed me have the same axle type as mine. Trust is now out the window.

I do understand the concept that going slower takes the rolling advantage out and I put more torque on the wheel hub; But do I really need a different frame to take advantage of a tougher wheel hub?

I have been bitten and I've been bottoming out the front fork, so an upgrade may be necessary. But I would have considered just upgrading the components over the entire bike. Cost effectiveness isn't as important as upgrade ability; I come from the 4 wheeling community, I've put thousand dollar components into hundred dollar rigs to achieve my goals.

That being said:

From a mechanical perspective, when do upgrades truely warrant a frame change?
When you put enough money into it to have bought a much nicer frame with all those parts in the first place.

XT Hubs are fairly bullet proof for easy riding. Im putting them on my enduro rig, and I am 190 kitted up.

How much do you weigh? What bike is it?

Sent from my LG-LS995 using Tapatalk
 

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You should kick somebody in the nuts for that cheezy up-sell attempt. Your bike is practically brand new and if the hub is the only problem you're having, you're nowhere near the point where it makes any sort of sense to write the thing off.

How big are you, what type of hubs are you trashing, and when you say they 'break', what specifically do you mean?

I'm thinking you might want to do some searching around the Clydesdale sub-forum and find out what hubs/rims have worked well for larger riders, then either buy a nice strong pre-built wheel or have one built up custom. Does your bike have 26" or 29" hoops?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
First was the Specialized then two Shimano's don't know what models. They said the upgrade was the XT.

I'm 6'1" 285 former lifter.

When the break happens it's like the chain slips and then the wheel doesn't freewheel anymore. I have to continue to pedal to keep the chain from folding on itself.

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Fat-tired Roadie
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Shimano hubs aren't noted for having the strongest freewheel mechanisms. I've always done fine with them, but I weigh half of you and tend to a high spin. So not so much torque going on.

Wheels are expensive, and there's not really a good way around that given that you keep breaking Shimano hubs. You only need to change the rear wheel, though, and the appropriate new one should be a drop-in replacement for what you've got.

What kind of brakes do you have? How many cogs? Wheel size?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just got back from the smaller shop by my house.
The guy in there is parroting what you guys are saying. I showed him both wheels and he chuckled. I'm apparently the second guy in the past two weeks with the same issue. We're putting too much on the hub. He recommended a DT350 and retain on of my old rims. He even talked me out of a new rim, said my second rim was reinforced and plenty as long as I'm not "tacoing" the rim. He says it's $350 out the door, and he'll make sure the bike is squared away.

He also agreed the bike is fine and shouldn't have to change.

Andrwswitch - it's 29" with hydraulic disk and 32 spoke. Don't know about cogs?

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You are correct, no cadence involved just low end. The way I'm using the bike is not the ideal situation, but I want to have fun and keep within eye shot of my 6yr old on his little BMX.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Had a 36 spoke there, but the 32 I had was of a higher quality, so we chose to reuse the 32. I did ask about that, he said it really wasn't justified.

I understand the technique issue. I need something that can take the abuse of improper technique. The ride is more about the time with my son than the ride itself. As he grows into his abilities and his confidence builds we'll work on proper technique.

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Workin for the weekend!
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Pushing as hard as you can and torquing the sh!t outta the hub is part of the problem. You're a big guy, with big strong legs... It'll save you some grief (and cash) if you learn how to reduce the stress on the drivetrain. Shift down to an easier cog and you'll find you break less. Getting up, off the seat and floating your weight around will also pay off.

I've blown up 3 different hubs before I got to the DT240, good parts are better, but the technique is still important.
 

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Just got my hard rock fixed after breaking a hub. Just a little info for you, if its being replaced under warranty they dont have to use the same hub that was in there. Specialized approves the repair and the shop sends them a bill for the cost of parts. In my case specialized approved an entire new wheel. I came out with a better wheel then I started with.
 
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