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Brand new to MTB - bike setup

1865 Views 15 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  Sparticus
Hi all! Just picked up a used (barely) Cannondale Cujo with 27.5+, 2.8 tires. Most of my riding would probably be classified as "cross-country". At this point, I don't foresee any big downhill/enduro stuff in my future. I looked hard at some XC-specific bikes, but the value on the Cannondale was excellent, especially being a first-time bike.

With all that said, I have contemplated getting a second wheel set with maybe 29ers and a slimmer tire profile for more speed on XC trails. Am I overthinking it, or would it be beneficial to have a second set to interchange based on the trail I would be riding?

Thanks for any advice, and look forward to participating in the community!

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Upgrading a bike can certainly be a lot of fun,l. At this point i recommend just spending time riding it and enjoying the activity. You’ll develop your own opinions about changes you like to make, based on your own experiences.
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Welcome to mountain biking!
Have some time on your new bike before making any major changes.. get to know your trails.. strengths and weaknesses of your bike and yourself.. With bike part adjustments, Proper contact point adjustments are the first on the list.. Saddle angle/height.. hadlebar bar roll / height.. brake lever angles.. Upgrade parts as they wear out or not capable of the things you do.. or ride the bike for a year or three.. save up for a new and better whole bike.. thats what I did..
have fun and enjoy!


Hi all! Just picked up a used (barely) Cannondale Cujo with 27.5+, 2.8 tires. Most of my riding would probably be classified as "cross-country". At this point, I don't foresee any big downhill/enduro stuff in my future. I looked hard at some XC-specific bikes, but the value on the Cannondale was excellent, especially being a first-time bike.

With all that said, I have contemplated getting a second wheel set with maybe 29ers and a slimmer tire profile for more speed on XC trails. Am I overthinking it, or would it be beneficial to have a second set to interchange based on the trail I would be riding?

Thanks for any advice, and look forward to participating in the community!
!
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2.8 tires will be on the slow side, especially if your tire pressure is below 20 psi. If you want a faster ride, use narrower tires (maybe 2.0 or 2.2) and pump them up to higher tire pressure (25 or 30). If the terrain you're riding is not too gnarly for that tire setup, the bike will be significantly faster. 29" wheels do roll a bit faster than 27.5", but the biggest difference is tire tread depth and width (less tread = less traction but more speed) and tire pressure make the biggest difference.
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Yup ride what you got for now to get a feel for your style of riding, what you prefer. 2.8 tires give you more cush and grip, i little more forgiving. I ride what id consider aggresive trail and run 2.6 front 2.4 rear. If you find yourself leaning to xc’ish, distance and speed on flatter and climbs, you could first try narrower faster tread tires first.
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but the biggest difference is tire tread depth and width (less tread = less traction but more speed) and tire pressure make the biggest difference.
Unless your riding really smooth stuff, higher pressure doesnt really gain you speed, it just bumps you around more. You need to run higher pressure with narrower tires to prevent them from bottoming out and flatting and damaging rims, and rolling off the rims on corners.
This is all excellent stuff. Thanks y'all! Any specific YouTube channels or other resources to follow to learn more about the sport? I some times find it difficult to really get into a sport by yourself if you don't have a friend to help guide you through the beginning stages. It's how I got into kayak fishing!
XC those 2.8" tires! Great workout and it's more fun! I used to ride 10-12 miles on gravel with 2.8" tires just for the fun of it.
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This is all excellent stuff. Thanks y'all! Any specific YouTube channels or other resources to follow to learn more about the sport? I some times find it difficult to really get into a sport by yourself if you don't have a friend to help guide you through the beginning stages. It's how I got into kayak fishing!
Check Meetup or Facebook (if you use that) for local groups in your area. Great way to meet others, and ride new stuff. Also use the regional forums on here. One of my ridding buddies I meet off here.
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Just ride it. The upgrades such as a wheelset and new fork should be only done ifyou can find good deals used. Otherwise get to know your trails and save for a whole bike.
Just ride it, upgrade if you break or wear something out.

Make sure you have other stuff like tools, spare tube/patch kit, first aid kit etc.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
Hi! From one new guy to another here's what I'm doing with my new (to me) bike... ride it one or a few times and figure out what you feel you need to change to make it more comfortable and enjoyable. In my mind, those items should take priority assuming your brakes and safety items are already taken care of. After that, take your time, research and prioritize your next upgrades. For me the grips, dropper post, and pedals was a must and from there I'm gonna ride it and upgrade as I get better/more expierence. Take care and enjoy!
Cool bike.
Like everyone else said - just ride it. Those 2.8 tires are going to be fuuuuuuuuun! And nice and cushy. Looks sweet as is.
2.8 tires will be on the slow side, especially if your tire pressure is below 20 psi. If you want a faster ride, use narrower tires (maybe 2.0 or 2.2) and pump them up to higher tire pressure (25 or 30). If the terrain you're riding is not too gnarly for that tire setup, the bike will be significantly faster. 29" wheels do roll a bit faster than 27.5", but the biggest difference is tire tread depth and width (less tread = less traction but more speed) and tire pressure make the biggest difference.
Unless your riding really smooth stuff, higher pressure doesnt really gain you speed, it just bumps you around more. You need to run higher pressure with narrower tires to prevent them from bottoming out and flatting and damaging rims, and rolling off the rims on corners.
To @Taroroot 's point, lowering pressure can actually boost speed for dirt conditions. There's obviously a risk of getting too low (pinch flats, squirmy feeling), but lower is generally better, all else being equal. This is counterintuitive when thinking of road cycling for sure.

This older thread touches on it:

... and there was a good investigation by a German bike magazine, but I can't find it.
Nice bike!
I'll chime in here since I have 3 bikes, 2 of which each have multiple wheelsets.
After owning multiple bikes as well as multiple wheelsets for individual bikes, here are some observations.
A second wheelset is cheaper than a second bike, but the bike's intended purpose (XC, enduro, etc.) doesn't change just by changing wheels/tires.
But if you have a second bike, then you can choose an entirely different genre / discipline (FS vs hardtail, etc.)
So a second bike may make more sense (if that's what you're looking for.)
If you do choose to go second wheelset route, ideally you'll want the convenience of just pulling the axles and dropping the wheels, then popping in the second wheelset.
In other words, you won't want to remove the tires, brake rotors & cassette to move these items from one wheelset to the other.
So there are additional expenses besides the wheelset itself -- new tires, cassette, rotors.
At first blush, a second wheelset sounds like it'd be a cheap way to go -- it's not. Cheaper than a second bike but not cheap by any means.
After buying all this stuff, ideally rotors and cassette should line up perfectly with calipers and shifter/derailleur settings.
In other words you'll want to set the wheelsets up with identical spacing from one to the other, so you don't have to adjust calipers & shifter.
Cassettes can be shimmed (very little) on Shimano drivetrains but I don't know of any way of shimming the cassette a SRAM XD driver.
That'll be 100% luck -- either it'll line up perfectly or it won't. If it doesn't, you'll have to dial the barrel adjuster every time you swap wheelsets.
As for shimming brake rotors, that's simple (rotor shims are available) but simple is not the same as easy.
It's a trial & error affair. You can only shim one direction so you have to set the brake up with the most outboard rotor and then shim the other one out to match.
This process can take time & patience. The shims are very thin and you want everything to be just right.
All these words to say this: once all is set up correctly, a second wheelset is nice to have, but it's expensive and to do it right, you have to know what you're doing.
Also in my opinion it doesn't make sense unless you have to have a good reason for doing it. It won't make your hardtail into a FS, obviously. It's evolutionary, not revolutionary.
Here in the PNW, we have seasonally disparate riding conditions, so I have summer wheels and winter wheels.
Tires and rims are wider and tread more aggressive for winter use (aka mud.) Summer wheels are set up lighter & faster.
But I wouldn't have a second wheelset just to make minor changes in tires to see if I liked, say, a narrower tire better. If that were the case, I'd just change tires.
These are my opinions... nothing more. But I hope they help, if only a little.
=sParty
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