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Short-Change-Hero
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ride 2 Smash build came with SRAM Code R brakes. Officially have over 500 miles on the bike, and HAD to bleed them little over 100 miles ago because I was getting lever to bar before they would engage. When my shop bled them, they said they had a decent amount of air in the line which I find odd since I have not opened them or crashed hard to cause something like that (nor do I hang my bike).

As I said, I am not a little over 100 miles since the last bleed and they are fading again like previously which means I will need to have them bled shortly here. Has anyone had this problem? Seems like a known issue with earlier GUIDE line but past that it seemed intermittent. I like the modulation and feel of the CODE but if I am going to have to bleed once a month, then I will have to swap for something else.
 

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Short-Change-Hero
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do you ever store your bike vertically or upside-down?

This includes any quick maintenance or wheel changes.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk
Only time it is upside down is when I am removing the front wheel to place on top of my truck. That is literally enough time to pull wheel off, install pad spacer and hoist on top of the truck, maybe 1 full minute max. Otherwise no, it sits on a scorpion stand in the garage otherwise.
 

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Only time it is upside down is when I am removing the front wheel to place on top of my truck. That is literally enough time to pull wheel off, install pad spacer and hoist on top of the truck, maybe 1 full minute max. Otherwise no, it sits on a scorpion stand in the garage otherwise.
I'm sure people will debate this but breaks don't do well upside-down. I theory it shouldn't matter. I. Reality .... if you have a bubble anywhere, the change in orientation could set it free. You also never get all the air out of a system. There will always be mirco bubbles on different internal parts. Set enough free and you'll have issues.

My 2 cents is get a bleed kit off Amazon and bleed it. The kits are ways good to have on hand. Then stop flipping your bike over. Just take off the wheel, lean it you truck and mount the bike in the rack. Then see what happens over time.

3 of my friends have similar setups and do this process. None of them flip the bike over. They have never had break issues. Well, one doesn't understand what the breaks are for .... Haha.

If the issues still comes back, there could be a bad seal someplace.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk
 

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... or SRAM brakes strike again ;)

Personally, I won't give SRAM my money for brakes, been there, too much hassle, and it really galls me that SRAM and the mfgs knew about the problem and let it go on forever...

Get a nice set of Shimano or TRP, no issues, do what they're supposed to do.
 

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I had my build ordered with SRAM brakes until I went to a race earlier this year and, while at neutral support, working out some shifting issues, 3 guys all came in with super spongy /non-functional SRAM brakes. I changed my order the next day. I know many that love their SRAM brakes and I hear the new ones are much better but these issues seem way too common.
 

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My friend owns a bike shop and he said he's seen a bunch of SRAM brakes that were assembled such that they leaked air right where the hose enters the lever due to an assembly error.

My Smash's CODE RSC had that issue. He tightened the hardware on the lever/hose junction and did a quick partial bleed. They've been 100% ever since. Far less hassles than my last couple sets of Shimano brakes were.

FWIW - he uses SRAM brakes on his personal bike.
 

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I have the Guide RSCs and have to do the piston cleaning and resetting procedure every 10-15 rides or so as the engagement point migrates ever closer to the grip over time. Once I run out of adjustment I do this and they are fine for another 10-15 rides. Pretty annoying but I have learned to live with it.
 

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I'm sure people will debate this but breaks don't do well upside-down. I theory it shouldn't matter. I. Reality .... if you have a bubble anywhere, the change in orientation could set it free. You also never get all the air out of a system. There will always be mirco bubbles on different internal parts. Set enough free and you'll have issues.

My 2 cents is get a bleed kit off Amazon and bleed it. The kits are ways good to have on hand. Then stop flipping your bike over. Just take off the wheel, lean it you truck and mount the bike in the rack. Then see what happens over time.

3 of my friends have similar setups and do this process. None of them flip the bike over. They have never had break issues. Well, one doesn't understand what the breaks are for .... Haha.

If the issues still comes back, there could be a bad seal someplace.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk
brake -not- break
 

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Short-Change-Hero
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So just to follow up... ended up having to bleed the brakes again as one of the last rides during a not so overly steep section I was able to pull the lever just about to my fingers before it would engage. Even riding on the steep sections I would have to pinch my own fingers to get decent braking for. Bike had never been upside down since last bleed in June.

Figured out that when I did finally bleed I had put 216 miles on the bleed. Got one of the Epic Bleed Solution bleed kits and bled the brakes last week. Took me a couple times to figure out how to properly due it (pressurizing the system properly is a huge deal) but there was TONS of air in the system, like a ridiculous amount.

In my thread in the brakes forum, one of the guys said he had a similar issue when he originally got his Codes and his mechanic buddy told him that there was an issue that would pop up rarely that if the banjos and hoses were not torqued properly to spec they would leak air without seeping or leaking all over the place. I went through the few bolts my Code R has and torqued them to the specs I found on SRAMs website prior to the bleed. So far I have three rides on the rear bleed and all seems to be good.
 

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A common culprit is the hose is not properly fastened at the caliper. This allows aair to enter when bleeding. Although the newer SRAM brakes don't require de-gassing as much as previous models, it is still a good thing to take the extra time and do.
 

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Short-Change-Hero
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
A common culprit is the hose is not properly fastened at the caliper. This allows air to enter when bleeding. Although the newer SRAM brakes don't require de-gassing as much as previous models, it is still a good thing to take the extra time and do.
Care to explain about the degassing and proper fastening? After a measly 50ish miles I am already starting to feel the power in the rear fade.
 

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Care to explain about the degassing and proper fastening? After a measly 50ish miles I am already starting to feel the power in the rear fade.
I use the same degassing method as with the Avid brakes. It is overkill per the new brakes, but I still do it. There are plenty of videos on how to do this.

As far as fastening the hose to both the caliper and lever, off the top of my head the compression nut should have dot grease and be inserted approximately 4 full threads or 7-8nm. I have come across where mechanics will insert the fitting ony a couple of threads, not grease and air will enter during the bleed process and during use.

Check out the SRAM instructions on their website or try Epic Bleed solutions.
 

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Short-Change-Hero
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I use the same degassing method as with the Avid brakes. It is overkill per the new brakes, but I still do it. There are plenty of videos on how to do this.

As far as fastening the hose to both the caliper and lever, off the top of my head the compression nut should have dot grease and be inserted approximately 4 full threads or 7-8nm. I have come across where mechanics will insert the fitting ony a couple of threads, not grease and air will enter during the bleed process and during use.

Check out the SRAM instructions on their website or try Epic Bleed solutions.
Epic is the company that I bought the bleed kit from and have been following their instructions on the bleed process. So basically what I am hearing is that there is a chance that the lines were connected improperly and thus producing air in the system.
 

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Epic is the company that I bought the bleed kit from and have been following their instructions on the bleed process. So basically what I am hearing is that there is a chance that the lines were connected improperly and thus producing air in the system.
From my time working in a shop and on my own bikes, this is the first place to start. Correct hose, barb and hose installation. I came across more bikes that where these steps were overlooked. Another thing to check is the lever position while bleeding. After all this, they may just be bogus brakes...
 

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Short-Change-Hero
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
From my time working in a shop and on my own bikes, this is the first place to start. Correct hose, barb and hose installation. I came across more bikes that where these steps were overlooked. Another thing to check is the lever position while bleeding. After all this, they may just be bogus brakes...
Ok thanks I will take a look and see what I can figure out. Ultimately I can tell I maybe have another month of riding or so before they will need a bleed. Last night coming down a long dh section that has some fast sections I ended up pinching my fingers on my front brake (yes FRONT brake) as the back was not slowing me down enough without even coming close to going over the bars. Looking at my strava profile I have done approximately 70miles on them since the last bleed.
 

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Short-Change-Hero
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Quick update, Warranty process started on the brakes. Had to have them bled, yet again, last week and already am feeling the fade. I attempted to bleed myself and gave up after over an hour of still getting bubbles. Head mechanic at my local shop said he has had a pretty steady stream of customers coming in that have similar issues, mainly dealing with the Guide MC lock-up issue.

I no longer trust my brakes on the bike so after warranty is completed they are going to eBay and someone else can play with them. Could be just me but seems like its a crapshoot with SRAM brakes as to whether or not they work, that is unless you get the RSC versions. After about 30miles this weekend after the bleed I can already feel the modulation and power fading on the rear. When there is a fresh bleed and the lever feels nice and stiff but you get those one or two braking situations where you pinch your own fingers because the lever suddenly goes to the bar, yeah I think you can understand my lack of trust.

Got a good deal on some Magura MT5s and will be throwing those on in the next couple days. Many people complain about the feel of the levers and seems like in Germany the big thing is to couple their brake calipers with Shimano levers, so I now have a pair of Shimano XT M8000 levers waiting. If I don't like the Magura levers then I will be going ShiGura!
 

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I started in hydros with sram (lower end). stuck with sram for a while. upgraded. bleeding was always a pita. once set up they worked just fine.

now using shimano lx. pretty happy with them. easier to bleed. not as nice of a feel as the sram but the difference is not so different that it makes much of a difference to me.

I do not miss messing with dot 5 fluid.
 

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Short-Change-Hero
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah DOT isnt a huge thing but really don't understand why with how small the systems are for bikes and the fact that Mineral Oil has very similar properties and is much safer. Just one of those things.

Finally got the Magura's installed and bled last night, started bedding in pads (Galfer) so will hopefully have a first ride tonight or this weekend. So far they bleed real similar to Shimano's. Cutting the lines and whatnot I ended up introducing a lot of air into the systems to I had to bleed multiple times. But that is to be expected, especially with the amount of line I ended up cutting off (they come with 2200mm line!).

Awesome thing is that in the box you get another 2 sets of olives and barbs, 2 more connector nuts and a t25 torx wrench. On top of that I bought a bleed kit that had multiple sets of all that as well, so I won't be wanting for those small parts for quite a while.
 
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