REVIEWS DEALS BIKESHOPS TRAILS

Brakes

3735 Views 33 Replies 12 Participants Last post by zebrahum, Jan 11, 2010

stragen

Discussion Starter · Jan 9, 2010

It's been a long time since I posted, but I have a chance to upgrade my bike now. I slapped some great wheels and tires on a Raleigh rigid frame some time ago, and it's been wonderful for thrashing my way around town.

However, the old Shimano (doesn't specify what series... the cheap one, I imagine) cantilever brakes aren't cutting it (they never were, but I'm sick of them now).

Could anyone direct me to a source of the best rim brakes/pads out there? Anyone have opinions? I don't want to have to buy a new wheelset, and the frame doesn't have caliper mounting points, besides.

I'm hoping to make the bike rideable for less than the thousand bucks a new decent bike costs.

Thanks

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

mbmb65

· #2 · Jan 9, 2010

Get some linear pull brakes, often referred to as "V Brakes". Avid and Shimano both make some nice ones. They can be had for cheap.

Glide the Clyde

· #3 · Jan 9, 2010

mbmb65 said:
Get some linear pull brakes, often referred to as "V Brakes". Avid and Shimano both make some nice ones. They can be had for cheap.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

The mounting points for new linear pull brakes should be the same as the cantilevers and you can probably get by a little cheaper reusing your old levers. I recommend new cables and housings, though. Heck, you could just replace every single brake component if your budget allows. Still fairly cheap, everything will work optimally by linear pull standards if set up correctly, and give you some wrenching experience.

Dremer03

· #4 · Jan 9, 2010

Malibu412 said:
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

The mounting points for new linear pull brakes should be the same as the cantilevers and you can probably get by a little cheaper reusing your old levers. I recommend new cables and housings, though. Heck, you could just replace every single brake component if your budget allows. Still fairly cheap, everything will work optimally by linear pull standards if set up correctly, and give you some wrenching experience.

I think if he goes from Cantilever to V-Brakes new cables are going to be a must. I think the same goes for housing. The cables are set up differently and the housing wont nearly be long enough I think.

mbmb65

· #5 · Jan 9, 2010

Dremer03 said:
I think if he goes from Cantilever to V-Brakes new cables are going to be a must. I think the same goes for housing. The cables are set up differently and the housing wont nearly be long enough I think.

What? How are the cables "set up" differently? Please explain. Thanks.

emtnate

· #6 · Jan 9, 2010

The cables may or may not be long enough, but I think they would work. It really depends on how they're routed to the calipers through the yoke and if the noodle on the new brake is roughly in the same place, but even brand new cheap cable and housing set like the Alligator cables will be a big improvement with new brakes. If you want a suggestion on a specific model, I set up my Mom's hybrid with Avid Single Digit 7 V-brakes and Avid Speed Dial 7 Levers. I did use new cables and housing because hers were over 10 years old and pretty rough to pull.

Glide the Clyde

· #7 · Jan 9, 2010

If I wanted to install linear pull brakes, I would look at the Avid SD 5s or SD 7s. New cables and Avid levers, too. All parts can be had online for under $100.

emtnate

· #8 · Jan 9, 2010

mbmb65 said:
What? How are the cables "set up" differently? Please explain. Thanks.

Do you want Dremer to explain, or just an answer?

mbmb65

· #9 · Jan 9, 2010

Either way. I understand fully how both systems work and how they are set up. But not clear on how this means the cables will be to short. If anything it seems they would be to long.

Dremer03

· #10 · Jan 9, 2010

2

mbmb65 said:
What? How are the cables "set up" differently? Please explain. Thanks.

Maybe I am completely wrong, but is it possible to make these canti brake cable reach and work with V-brakes?

Cantilever Brakes

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emtnate

· #11 · Jan 9, 2010

It depends on the frame, and how the yoke or link wire is routed. My old mountain bike was an easy conversion using the cables already in place. My mom's hybrid requires a new set because the old were a tad bit too short. I probably could have made it work, but since the cables needed replacement it was easier.

The problem with her bike was the way the roller attached to the seatpost. Not really a big deal though.

edit: Stragen: Here you go: http://www.blueskycycling.com/product3714_31_-2009-Avid-Single-Digit-7-Brake-Kit.htm + Cables & housing if you need them.

Dremer03

· #12 · Jan 9, 2010

emtnate said:
It depends on the frame, and how the yoke or link wire is routed. My old mountain bike was an easy conversion using the cables already in place. My mom's hybrid requires a new set because the old were a tad bit too short. I probably could have made it work, but since the cables needed replacement it was easier.

The problem with her bike was the way the roller attached to the seatpost. Not really a big deal though.

So they may or may not work depending on how they are setup?

mbmb65

· #13 · Jan 9, 2010

It also depends on the cantis in place. So yes the cables may work. Or they may not.

emtnate

· #14 · Jan 9, 2010

Yes, if I were to bet, I would bet on the side of not working though, due to the cable being too short.

Glide the Clyde

· #15 · Jan 9, 2010

Oh look, the little boys are once again dueling with their piss streams.... how cute

Dremer is right--cable and housing lengths for cantis is different than linear pulls--usually. Notice that cable and housing replacement is recommended--takes care of length and wear issues.

Notice the OP has a couple of solid recommendations. Give it some rest.

itc41

· #16 · Jan 9, 2010

I have XTR V-brakes on my old Schwinn, Their as close to disk as you can get, ( I Think )
I have salmon pads, and also use brake boosters, a metal on on the rear, and the
Shimano carbon fiber on the front. But, they do make some noise, the boosters help,
and toeing in the pads help. But every now and then, it sounds like an old school
bus stopping.

Bigmark

heff®

· #17 · Jan 9, 2010

*sigh* if the OP has center pull cantis, the old cables are too short. Look at the pic above, the lever to hanger cable stops there, the cable going to each brake arm is a seperate piece. The current cable will be about three inches too short.

I also vote for Avids and a nice brake booster on the rear, possibly the front. Forks in general don't flex as much as a rear triangle, but YMMV.

mbmb65

· #18 · Jan 10, 2010

Well, *sigh*, no. the cable on the right side of the screen runs full length, from the lever to the pinch bolt. It ends below the rim wall. Linear pulls run several inches above the rim, which means the cable is long enough. Not all cantis use this style of "straddle" cable and may render the cable to short. So again, the cables may or may not be to short. That is all.

stragen

Discussion Starter · #19 · Jan 10, 2010

emtnate said:
It depends on the frame, and how the yoke or link wire is routed. My old mountain bike was an easy conversion using the cables already in place. My mom's hybrid requires a new set because the old were a tad bit too short. I probably could have made it work, but since the cables needed replacement it was easier.

The problem with her bike was the way the roller attached to the seatpost. Not really a big deal though.

edit: Stragen: Here you go: http://www.blueskycycling.com/product3714_31_-2009-Avid-Single-Digit-7-Brake-Kit.htm + Cables & housing if you need them.

Looks like a pretty great deal, 'cept mine's a 21-speed with the trigger shifters built into the brake lever assembly... I'll need a kit with new shifters, too, I guess.

stragen

Discussion Starter · #20 · Jan 10, 2010

Great suggestions everyone. And to hopefully remove the relevance of the cable debate, I was planning on replacing them anyway. :thumbsup:

I guess I should clarify that it is a mountain bike frame with older model Shimano trigger shifts.

I have XTR V-brakes on my old Schwinn, Their as close to disk as you can get, ( I Think )
I have salmon pads, and also use brake boosters, a metal on on the rear, and the
Shimano carbon fiber on the front. But, they do make some noise, the boosters help,
and toeing in the pads help. But every now and then, it sounds like an old school
bus stopping.

Bigmark

Well, since my last brake pad change, my front set (using shimano mtb pads) sounds like microphone feedback from a 3000 watt stereo.

I believe it has something to do with the uneven wearing of the rim by the older pads. On the other hand, my rear wheel has some road bike Koolstop pads and they're about 50 trillion times better. They don't squeal, even when wet.

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

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