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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2020 Levo Turbo Expert with Magura MT5 eSTOP brakes with a 220mm front and 200mm rear rotor. They are awesome for the most part except when I'm doing slow technical stuff and trying to control the braking without locking up the brakes and sliding or hanging up on obstacles. Are there pads that are less grippy? Another option might be to reduce the rotor size by 20 mm, maybe just the rear as that's the wheel that tends to lock up and break loose. Any suggestions? I don't want to spend the money on a new brakeset. I'm hoping to work with these.
 

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I have a 2020 Levo Turbo Expert with Magura MT5 eSTOP brakes with a 220mm front and 200mm rear rotor. They are awesome for the most part except when I'm doing slow technical stuff and trying to control the braking without locking up the brakes and sliding or hanging up on obstacles. Are there pads that are less grippy? Another option might be to reduce the rotor size by 20 mm, maybe just the rear as that's the wheel that tends to lock up and break loose. Any suggestions? I don't want to spend the money on a new brakeset. I'm hoping to work with these.
How many fingers you have on the lever?
 

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furker
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when I'm doing slow technical stuff
Nothing you can recommend in terms of pad material?
My experience is that pad material doesn't make as much difference at slow speeds between good and bad pads. It isn't until speeds increase that I'll notice the pads on a bike are crappy. Maybe I just haven't ridden a crappy enough brake pad yet?

20 mm smaller rotor would only be 10% change in diameter. Can the bike fit a 160mm in the rear? Check with the bike maker to see what size rotors can be fitted on that frame.

Other than diameter, you could also look for a rotor with less surface area, like an XC race style rotor with big holes. The problem is that rotors with less surface area tend to cost more. I suppose filing down the brake pad edges to make the brake pad surface smaller might achieve the same effect but I've never heard of anyone doing that.

The last thing would be to find a brake lever that pushes less volume of brake fluid so you only have to change the lever and not the whole brake system. The ratio of volume in the lever vs. the caliper is ultimately what determines how responsive a brake set is. That's a bit more on the hack/diy/at your own risk kind of thing though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My experience is that pad material doesn't make as much difference at slow speeds between good and bad pads. It isn't until speeds increase that I'll notice the pads on a bike are crappy. Maybe I just haven't ridden a crappy enough brake pad yet?

20 mm smaller rotor would only be 10% change in diameter. Can the bike fit a 160mm in the rear? Check with the bike maker to see what size rotors can be fitted on that frame.

Other than diameter, you could also look for a rotor with less surface area, like an XC race style rotor with big holes. The problem is that rotors with less surface area tend to cost more. I suppose filing down the brake pad edges to make the brake pad surface smaller might achieve the same effect but I've never heard of anyone doing that.

The last thing would be to find a brake lever that pushes less volume of brake fluid so you only have to change the lever and not the whole brake system. The ratio of volume in the lever vs. the caliper is ultimately what determines how responsive a brake set is. That's a bit more on the hack/diy/at your own risk kind of thing though.
180 is as small as I can go on this frame but in my experience there's a noticable difference between 200 and 180 so I'll try that. I suspect that will be sufficient to give me enough more control of my back wheel while still keeping the 220 up front to give me high speed stopping power. Until I got this bike I used Hope brakes exclusively. They have the best modulation.
 

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Elitest thrill junkie
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My Hope V4s came with 3 sets of pads, one pair sintered, one for e-bike, and one resin. The resin ones do not grip nearly as much. If there's a resin pad for those maguras, I'd expect similar results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Dude, don’t do it. You’ll get used to the braking power before long and your brain will learn the right amount of pull.
Man I've been riding this bike constantly. Pretty much every day for a couple of months with two or three times as much DH per ride as I'd get on a pedal bike. I went through the tire thing and got that dialed. I just need more modulation in the rear brake.
 

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think it's the way you brake. i have this brake setup on my non ebike, and love it. IMHO perfect modulation with the race pads, and brutal stopping power when needed(or to reach the maximun grip available by the rear or front tire). it took me some time te get the modulation spot on on the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
think it's the way you brake. i have this brake setup on my non ebike, and love it. IMHO perfect modulation with the race pads, and brutal stopping power when needed(or to reach the maximun grip available by the rear or front tire). it took me some time te get the modulation spot on on the rear.
I don't. These brakes aren't as on-off as some but compared to Hopes they are, at least with a 200 rotor. I'm talking very slow speeds in very steep conditions...tight switchbacks where you need to come almost to a complete stop, or negotiating rocky sections where you need the exact amount of momentum...too little is a stall, too much an
overshoot.
 

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high pivot witchcraft
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I don’t own MT5s, but I have ridden them and loved them. I don’t know what rotor size or type of pad they had but as mentioned in prior posts, if you want to tinker with the bite/modulation of your own brakes, this is where I would start. Those are great brakes - don’t lose hope (no pun intended).
 
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