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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, so i've bought a pair of Avid XO 2011's, (both are front, as couldn't find a used rear anywhere, gonna convert the front to rear)

Is it a worthwhile upgrade from the elixir r's, anyone have any experience with them?
 

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change is good
Switchblade with a 38, 29+ rigid WaltWorks
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I just sold a practically new G2 brake for $75 on eBay. My question is why? Elixirs and XOs suck in ways that are mind boggling.

If you’re really on a tight budget, then I can understand.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just sold a practically new G2 brake for $75 on eBay. My question is why? Elixirs and XOs suck in ways that are mind boggling.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Elixir's are annoying to bleed yes, but based on my experience with elixir r's, they are fantastic, great modulation, good power, and i love the feel of them, i've tried shimanos, they're good power, but don't have the same feel of avid.

Rule of avid, bleed it properly, clean it properly, maintain it properly, it'll work properly, same goes for the XO's.
 

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high pivot witchcraft
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Elixir's are annoying to bleed yes, but based on my experience with elixir r's, they are fantastic, great modulation, good power, and i love the feel of them, i've tried shimanos, they're good power, but don't have the same feel of avid.

Rule of avid, bleed it properly, clean it properly, maintain it properly, it'll work properly, same goes for the XO's.
You may be in a camp of one here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just sold a practically new G2 brake for $75 on eBay. My question is why? Elixirs and XOs suck in ways that are mind boggling.

If you're really on a tight budget, then I can understand.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Another thing, i'm more of a savvy bike person, avid may be good or bad, but it's service-able, repairable, and shimano really isn't nearly as much, shimano's more, you buy it, it just works, no need to service, i don't really like that,

TL;DR, Avid's are great for repairability, as for reliability, well, never had any issues, but clearly ALOT of people have lmao.
 

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BOOM goes the dynamite!
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6,804 Posts
I've had decent luck with the Elixirs, but can't quite wrap my head around why someone would intentionally buy into the potential headaches. These days if I needed a new set I'd probably lean toward Magura or TRP over the big 2.
 

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furker
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915 Posts
There was a major change between the early 2010's XO/XX brakes and the mid 2010's Guide brakes that make it so people's experiences will vary wildly.

"The bladder is now Butyl instead of EPDM rubber, which SRAM says better prevents air and moisture migration"

Things that help problems associated with air and moisture contamination:
  • Store the bike upright (the 2011's don't have Avid "Air Trap" technology that is in newer Avid brakes, so contamination is more likely to cause braking problems than in newer brake designs)
  • Store the bike inside away from heat swings and high humidity (cool dry place)
  • Full brake fluid flush and bleed after wearing through 1/4 of the brake pads
  • Full brake fluid flush and bleed after the bike is stored for extended times
  • Full brake fluid flush and bleed after repeated heat/cool cycles after extended very heavy braking
  • During every brake flush, after replacing the old fluid with new brake fluid, remove the pads and clean the pistons with isopropyl alcohol.. After cleaning fully, unblock the syringe and cycle the pistons multiple times until it cycles smoothly.
  • Always flush using a brand new unsealed bottle of DOT 5.1 fluid, every time, no exceptions.

Do all that, and the chances decrease for seeing these common issues:
  • Seal damage due to changes in brake fluid acidity (pH) because of air/water in the fluid.
  • Spongy brakes
  • Brake lockup from fluid volume expansion
  • Brake lever pulling all the way to the bars
  • Poor modulation
  • Pads not retracting causing brake pad rub/drag.

If you get lucky and don't have turkey gobble or brake squeal, you'll be rewarded with brakes that Avid/Sram says are less powerful than their newer generations of brakes. On blue/green trails, less power translates into a feeling of better modulation.

If that's what you are looking for in a brake, and are willing to do the work to mitigate the problems, they are what they are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There was a major change between the early 2010's XO/XX brakes and the mid 2010's Guide brakes that make it so people's experiences will vary wildly.

"The bladder is now Butyl instead of EPDM rubber, which SRAM says better prevents air and moisture migration"

Things that help problems associated with air and moisture contamination:
  • Store the bike upright (the 2011's don't have Avid "Air Trap" technology that is in newer Avid brakes, so contamination is more likely to cause braking problems than in newer brake designs)
  • Store the bike inside away from heat swings and high humidity (cool dry place)
  • Full brake fluid flush and bleed after wearing through 1/4 of the brake pads
  • Full brake fluid flush and bleed after the bike is stored for extended times
  • Full brake fluid flush and bleed after repeated heat/cool cycles after extended very heavy braking
  • During every brake flush, after replacing the old fluid with new brake fluid, remove the pads and clean the pistons with isopropyl alcohol.. After cleaning fully, unblock the syringe and cycle the pistons multiple times until it cycles smoothly.
  • Always flush using a brand new unsealed bottle of DOT 5.1 fluid, every time, no exceptions.

Do all that, and the chances decrease for seeing these common issues:
  • Seal damage due to changes in brake fluid acidity (pH) because of air/water in the fluid.
  • Spongy brakes
  • Brake lockup from fluid volume expansion
  • Brake lever pulling all the way to the bars
  • Poor modulation
  • Pads not retracting causing brake pad rub/drag.

If you get lucky and don't have turkey gobble or brake squeal, you'll be rewarded with brakes that Avid/Sram says are less powerful than their newer generations of brakes. On blue/green trails, less power translates into a feeling of better modulation.

If that's what you are looking for in a brake, and are willing to do the work to mitigate the problems, they are what they are.
I bought two Avid XO's from marketplace, two different guys, just found out that one of them is a 2011 XO (black onyx) and the other has a different looking lever, same color, but the avid symbol is without the (circle), turns out it's a 2013 XO (non-trail 2 piston variant),

Which is fantastic, one 2011 for the rear, one 2013 for the front.

All cost me $100, good condition brakes. lmao
 

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On wuss patrol
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5,237 Posts
I have Elixir R SLs on my 2010 Stumpy FSR. They were the stock brakes, have 1500 miles of ride distance, and have been bled maybe once. Of course, new pads occasionally. They work well, nice modulation, decent power, very reliable (obviously), I like the pad clearance adjustment feature. I still can’t imagine not swapping them out with anything but Shimano.

OP, do you own an MG, Jag, Rover, Fiat, or Alfa by chance?
 

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change is good
Switchblade with a 38, 29+ rigid WaltWorks
Joined
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4,259 Posts
Elixir's are annoying to bleed yes, but based on my experience with elixir r's, they are fantastic, great modulation, good power, and i love the feel of them, i've tried shimanos, they're good power, but don't have the same feel of avid.

Rule of avid, bleed it properly, clean it properly, maintain it properly, it'll work properly, same goes for the XO's.
So you do your own work. Sorry for assuming that you're a novice. Anyhow I had XOs and I'm still bitter. I ran them 4 seasons in the Midwest, so no long downs, but sometimes in crappy conditions.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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high pivot witchcraft
Joined
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6,705 Posts
I bought two Avid XO's from marketplace, two different guys, just found out that one of them is a 2011 XO (black onyx) and the other has a different looking lever, same color, but the avid symbol is without the (circle), turns out it's a 2013 XO (non-trail 2 piston variant),

Which is fantastic, one 2011 for the rear, one 2013 for the front.

All cost me $100, good condition brakes. lmao
You are the guy I have been searching for. I have boxes of stuff like in my garage that I don't know what to do with.
 

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Registered
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37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have Elixir R SLs on my 2010 Stumpy FSR. They were the stock brakes, have 1500 miles of ride distance, and have been bled maybe once. Of course, new pads occasionally. They work well, nice modulation, decent power, very reliable (obviously), I like the pad clearance adjustment feature. I still can't imagine not swapping them out with anything but Shimano.

OP, do you own an MG, Jag, Rover, Fiat, or Alfa by chance?
I do not own any of those, i'm more akin to avid as it's legit what came with my bike, (specialized epic comp 2010), it's my first real dual suspension mountain bike,

Don't get me wrong i like shimano, infact my brother's bike has got Shimano bl-mt501-R (4 piston) on the front and a pair of BL-MT200 shimano on the rear,

Tried them, used them, the power is good, the modulation however and the general feel, just dosen't compare to my elixir R's,

To get into Elixir territory and have a worthwhile upgrade, i feel like i'd have to get a pair of Shimano SLX BR-M7100's
Which are $160 each brake, ($320 total) (i'm in australia lol)

Not really worth it, i live in more of a cross-country area, where i don't need INSANITY braking power (like what you get with shimano 4 pots), i'm more akin to nice modulation and feel, hence avid.

Although i would eventually like to get into other brand brakes, something like the MAGURA MT TRAIL SPORT's or Hope Tech 3 E4's, ideally i'd like to get a pair of super sporty XC brakes, unique looking, good power, great modulation,

But hey, i'm more than happy with my sidegrade up to Avid XO's, $100 for both is a damn good deal.
 
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