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Totally, and to the max.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there's a brake forum but I think you're all a smarter bunch, so there. I'm wondering if any of you have dealt with this on a similar build. I can't seem to figure out how the rear Avid Elixir CR brake caliper is supposed to fit on my On-One carbon 456. The issue is with the bolt on the rear of the caliper that helps to hold the two pieces together. I can't get the caliper centered over the rotor without that bolt hitting the seat stay. In order to troubleshoot, I removed that bolt and proceeded to put the caliper in place on the replaceable dropout. It's perfect now. The caliper is exactly where it should be over the rotor, and there is maybe a 1 mm gap between the rotor and the seat stay. What's crazy is that On-one showcases the bike on their site running Avid Elixirs! Same friggen brake, so this should work. My initial thought was to shave down the bolt head to fit, but that would weaken the bolt and is just a ghetto solution to say the least.

Anyone know what the deal is?
 

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Ariolimax columbianus
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1,635 Posts
try a different bolt, different shaped head maybe? file a bit of the caliper off at the interference point. custom baby.
 

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Medium?
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You should dremel out a section of that seat stay.

Want Pliney the Elder and I to stop by and scope it out? On the way home from work now. Call me. Rasputin may be a better idea give the weather.

??

 

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Look at the mfg pic

notice the shadow between the IS mount and the adapter? they shimmed the adapter inward from the IS mount. Do that and it looks like you can still center the caliper over the rotor.
 

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Maybe try another rear wheel, i.e. one that places the rotor a tad closer to the center of the hub so you can shift the caliper inward and make room for the bolt?
 

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Is that a bolt on, sliding dropout system?

- If so try running it in the forward position maybe. Hope that works.

On another note: All hubs are not "standard" in where they place the disc-flange. This *might* mean your Crank Bros. wheels are not compatible with that frame/brake combo.
 

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Let's ride
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7,125 Posts
DMFT said:
Is that a bolt on, sliding dropout system?

- If so try running it in the forward position maybe. Hope that works.

On another note: All hubs are not "standard" in where they place the disc-flange. This *might* mean your Crank Bros. wheels are not compatible with that frame/brake combo.
Test that out Kyle. Throw one of your other wheels in there.

Seems kinda lame, and super tight. I know Justin is running a 180 rotor back there, and maybe that's how he escapes this problem.
 

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Uncle
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4,361 Posts
Wow, what a drag. Hope you find a quick solution here.

I'd guess either A), they're using a smaller rotor, B) there's no bolt in the caliper in the On-One pic, or C) the frame in their photo isn't same as yours.

The first thing I would look into is a different caliper adapter. See if your LBS has a few different brands on hand for the same size rotor, and see if they position the caliper in slightly different spots. If that's a no go, then maybe run a smaller rotor?

BTW -- did you take that rig and your tools up to Tahoe?
 

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Medium?
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beanbag said:
Are u able to flip the caliper adapter around?
No.

jrm said:
notice the shadow between the IS mount and the adapter? they shimmed the adapter inward from the IS mount. Do that and it looks like you can still center the caliper over the rotor.
No way. If anything the adapter needs to be thinner, making the caliper even closer to the seat stay.

burndtjamb said:
Maybe try another rear wheel, i.e. one that places the rotor a tad closer to the center of the hub
It's a standard. They should all be the same. Not sure if this is actually true.

DMFT said:
Is that a bolt on, sliding dropout system?
No.

Entrenador said:
I'd guess either A), they're using a smaller rotor, B) there's no bolt in the caliper in the On-One pic, or C) the frame in their photo isn't same as yours.
After seeing the issue up close an personal, though slightly buzzed :), I'm guessing "B". Faquers.

Entrenador said:
The first thing I would look into is a different caliper adapter.
I believe it's specific to the frame.

This issue is solved. Multiple 22oz 10%+abv beers and power tools were required for the ultimate solution. Pictures were taken. Stay tuned...
 

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bike buster
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1,196 Posts
Not sure what the issue is. Here's my 20" 456c with 180mm Elixirs.





The guys at OnOne are pretty good about answering questions. I had a warranty issue with my dropouts. They sent me an extra set, all the hardware and a free set of SS swapouts. Might be worth it to shoot them an email.
 

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Medium?
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jdubsl2 said:
It looks to me like both the silver mount and the black mount are different. Better. K-max' rotors are 160mm.

Look how close the back bolt from silver to black mount is to the junction of the chain stay and seat stay in this picture, compared with the picture above. My guess is 5mm difference?

 

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Let's ride
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Kmax

Given that the bolt in question is something you'll never touch/remove, you might just grind that sucker until there's clearance.

Let's ride.
 

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Uncle
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Fast Eddy said:
It looks to me like both the silver mount and the black mount are different. Better. K-max' rotors are 160mm.

Look how close the back bolt from silver to black mount is to the junction of the chain stay and seat stay in this picture, compared with the picture above. My guess is 5mm difference?

20" frame: Longer seat tube = less acute seat stay angle? Looking forward to hi resolution pics (pun intended).
 

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I'm disrespectful to dirt
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479 Posts
jdubsl2 said:
Not sure what the issue is. Here's my 20" 456c with 180mm Elixirs.





The guys at OnOne are pretty good about answering questions. I had a warranty issue with my dropouts. They sent me an extra set, all the hardware and a free set of SS swapouts. Might be worth it to shoot them an email.
Looks like there's two non-dremel solutions:

- Use a 180 rotor in the rear, and corresponding adator that will move the caliper out of the way.
- I think On-one sells an alternate dropout that places the caliper on the outside of the triangle (the "standard" position)
 

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Totally, and to the max.
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Problem solved!

Well, the problem is now solved thanks to Fast Eddy's ingenuity and supply of high-gravity ales. While I was deliberating the issue, Ed was already shopping around for bolts at a few local stores. He called me and said he was dropping by with beer and bolts. Hells to the yes, sir!

From Brake fix

We had our priorities in order: Beer first, power tools next.

From Brake fix

Double Daddy 2x IPA is such a lovely shade of amber.

From Brake fix

This nice, stainless steel bolt looked to be the solution. We just needed to make some minor modifications to the caliper to get it to work.

From Brake fix

This drill bit provided the same countersink profile as the bolt.

From Brake fix

On first pass, we had a nice fit. Still though, the head was too thick for the infinitesimal amount of space available. So we clamped that sucker in a drill and spun it atop a file.

From Brake fix

Now we're talking. Starting to look pretty good.

From Brake fix

My daughter was pretty interested in the action, too.

From Brake fix

A little more countersinking and we're as good as gold.

From Brake fix

Bam! That is one close fit. You could barely fit a gnat's pube in there. Might need a smidge taken off the top, but the problem is solved in my book. Thanks Ed! You're a life saver. Like I said in the beginning, MTBR Norcal is the smartest bunch of bike nuts out there. :thumbsup:

From Brake fix
 
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