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Hey there everyone, I currently have a 2005 specialized hardrock pro disc that I have been beating on for about 2 solid years now. A few rides ago I noticed this tick that would occur in the 1'oclock to 4 o clock position on the deraileur side of the bike. I didnt think much of it but on my next ride it definitely got worse, it seems that after the first 100-200 ft of pedaling there is no tick and after that it definitely gets louder and stays that way for the rest of the ride Iam almost sure that it is my BB making the noise and not the seat post or any other part of the bike. The pedal stroke still feels smooth but it is definitely annoying having this loud series of ticks/ creaking come from the bike. I believe it has a Truvativ Blaze crankset and thats all I know about it

I called my lbs and theyre charging me 20-30$ just to pull the BB out and lube it, because of that Iam considering doing this myself and consider myself mechanically inclined. Im not sure where to start and what to expect by taking on this job. Are ball bearings going to shoot out if i take the BB or crank arms off?? My cousin lent me a tool made by park tool so I have that, allen keys, and wrenches in my posession.

Here is the tool my cousin gave me, except that it says CCP-1 on it and on the park tool website it is referred to the CCP-2. I searched for CCP-1 and it showed no results.


here is a pic of what Iam going to be working with



thank you for any help or tips that anyone can give me. :thumbsup:
 

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Make sure its not your pedals and also make sure the crank bolts are tight. I have been duped by both. I am running a XTR Crankset and when it got loose i made a clunking sound. I have crankbros Candy pedals and when the rubber seal got dry it made a clicking
sound that I thought was the bottom bracket I also had a pair of Wellgos that developed a clicking sound.

Good luck.
 

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Thats interesting..

I have an 06 Hardrock Pro Disk, and I have the same problem!
I am certain that mine is the BB, and not the crank arms ect.
I know this because I can hear where the sound is comming from, and when I POUR lube as close as I can get to the BB, the noise subsides for a few days.

According to the specialized website the uk 06 and usa 05 hardrock pro's have the same or similar BBs. I think. At least I looked up 'my' BB on MTBR and It got some very bad reviews.

I have known for a long time that I need to take the BB out and lube it, but my dads disorganised collection doesn't have the right sized allen keys! Does anybody know exactly what size key I need to remove the cranks? (Truvativ Blaze also) And is this standard to all mtb's or does it vary by crankset?

I am confused about your park tool... I thought you would remove the chain, undo the cranks using a rasonably large allen key, and then undo the BB using a plastic tool that came with my bike!

It seems I also need help!:confused:
 

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BartBoy said:
I have an 06 Hardrock Pro Disk, and I have the same problem!
I am certain that mine is the BB, and not the crank arms ect.
I know this because I can hear where the sound is comming from, and when I POUR lube as close as I can get to the BB, the noise subsides for a few days.

According to the specialized website the uk 06 and usa 05 hardrock pro's have the same or similar BBs. I think. At least I looked up 'my' BB on MTBR and It got some very bad reviews.

I have known for a long time that I need to take the BB out and lube it, but my dads disorganised collection doesn't have the right sized allen keys! Does anybody know exactly what size key I need to remove the cranks? (Truvativ Blaze also) And is this standard to all mtb's or does it vary by crankset?

I am confused about your park tool... I thought you would remove the chain, undo the cranks using a rasonably large allen key, and then undo the BB using a plastic tool that came with my bike!

It seems I also need help!:confused:
There are several crankset "standards" out there (so it varies), but CarbonKen posted the Truvativ Blaze directions several posts above yours. If you aren't confident of what you are doing, I recommend you take it to your LBS. Screwing up your bottom bracket (stripping frame threads, etc) can be quite costly.

Cheers, Chris
 

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Spend the $30 and have your LBS do it. That's an extremely reasonable price.

Otherwise you'll need to get a BB tool ($10-ish) for ISIS/Octalink BB's in order to pull the BB. What you've been loaned is a crank puller (note that appears to be a crank-puller for square-taper BB's, ISIS and octalink BB's need a larger diameter one that won't work with square-taper. Your bike almost assuredly has an ISIS BB and crank).
 

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Chris130 said:
There are several crankset "standards" out there (so it varies), but CarbonKen posted the Truvativ Blaze directions several posts above yours. If you aren't confident of what you are doing, I recommend you take it to your LBS. Screwing up your bottom bracket (stripping frame threads, etc) can be quite costly.
Cheers, Chris
I feel I may never learn if I take it to the LBS, not good imo as this sounds like it may be a reoccurring problem - also I am extremely short of money! I plan to go down there soon for something else, so I will ask them exactly what tools I need for my crankset/BB.
Thanks none the less!
Ali
 

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After looking around my 'bike box' I found the tool for the BB that I have.
It looks pretty much like this:

So hopefully all I need is the right sized allen/hex key.
Apologies for my confusion, this is all quite difficult for the first time!:thumbsup:
Ali
 

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Like you I had never done a BB before so it was a mystery as to what I needed to do the job. I took my bike to the shop and asked the guy to give me the tools I needed to replace the BB. He sold me a special crank puller and a socket to put in the new BB. The guy told me to bring the shaft back and he'd size up the cart I needed.

I got home and pulled the cranks, then using a slip lock plier I opened the BB. Ball bearings fell all over the floor. I thought I was screwed. I packed up the balls n the shaft and took em back to the shop. It turns out the cage n race bearings get replaced by the new cartridge. I thought I'd replace teh caged bearings n races.

The guy found the cartridge I needed and told me to screw it right in, making sure the metal end is on the ring side and the plastic retainer on the other. This is when you need the special splined socket.

The entire job, if I were to do it again today, would take me about a 1/2 hour. It's that simple.
 
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