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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
why all the comments on the Id's BB height with recommendations to consider the Moment, Joker, Truth, Distance, or Dare as better options when there is virtually no difference in their BB height specs?...with my 30" inseam, it took a while to get used to it (standover height took a little longer), but there is no way that i could replace this bike..its like we share a brain

just a thought
 

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The Ancient One
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JM01 said:
why all the comments on the Id's BB height with recommendations to consider the Moment, Joker, Truth, Distance, or Dare as better options when there is virtually no difference in their BB height specs?...with my 30" inseam, it took a while to get used to it (standover height took a little longer), but there is no way that i would replace this bike..its like we share a brain, nothing else comes even close.

just a thought
What is the eye to eye length of your rear shock?
 

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The Ancient One
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JM01 said:
have to check, but its the Romic 7.875x2.0
Then your eye to eye is 7.875. That means you have the high BB. It is definitely higher than all the other models you mentioned except maybe the Dare.
 

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Rolling
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JM01 said:
have to check, but its the Romic 7.875x2.0
Depending on tires, the id with a 7-7/8 shock had a bb height of around 14.5"-15" Even with small tires, the site spec is wrong.

Personally, it's not an issue with me. I ride a low bb hardtail as well yet feel more comfortable doing everything on my Id in that regard.
 

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Compulsive Bike Builder
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You can't get around simple geometry

The Id is a true long travel XC bike. The high BB is a natural result of making a long travel bike, but keeping an XC riding position. Normal XC bikes are made for 3-4" forks. The Id is made for 5-6" forks, that raises the front of the bike. If you raise the front of the bike but keep the bb in the same spot, you end up sitting more upright, so to keep the rider in a real XC position, you must raise the BB, there is no way around it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Steve from JH said:
Then your eye to eye is 7.875. That means you have the high BB. It is definitely higher than all the other models you mentioned except maybe the Dare.
brings an idea to mind...if i replace the 7.875 with a 7.0, will the height be reduced enough to stop the front derailleur (shimano XT) chatter when in the lower gears?
 

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The Ancient One
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JM01 said:
brings an idea to mind...if i replace the 7.875 with a 7.0, will the height be reduced enough to stop the front derailleur (shimano XT) chatter when in the lower gears?
You can't go down to a 7" shock, but you can go down to 7.5. That's what I have. It gives you 5 inches of travel, a lower BB and standover height, and a slacker head tube angle.

I can't see why it would make any difference as far as the front derailer is concerned.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Steve from JH said:
You can't go down to a 7" shock, but you can go down to 7.5. That's what I have. It gives you 5 inches of travel, a lower BB and standover height, and a slacker head tube angle.

I can't see why it would make any difference as far as the front derailer is concerned.
had hoped that by lowering the BB, the angle of the chainstay would move up and raise the chain a bit higher so that it would not bang on the cage in the lower range. Am told that switching the shimano to a sram does away with the chatter, maybe try that later

thanks for the help
 

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Up & Down
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I find the Higher BB useful.

I use a Talas front and rear. I will generally dial in the fork for the type of ride and don't mess with it much on the ride, but the switch on the rear shock is a quick flip and easy to reach while riding. Though, often I wish I had it connected to some sort of thumb shifter. (Anyone out there know of of something that might work, or do I have to make my own?)

I generally have the shock fully extended for climbs, especially if it's rocky with lot's of ledges and steps. I mostly ride with the i2i dropped by a 1/4", and will drop it the full 1/2" for heading down. If it's a long DH, I'll take a little air out of the shock to soften it up a bit.

Each 1/4" change on the shock slackens the geo by about a degree and drops the BB by a 3/8". Each 1" in change on the fork changes the geo by a degree and changes the BB ht 3/8". Everything fully extended the geo is HA=70 SA=72.5 BB=14.5" Fully dropped: HA=70.5 SA=73 BB=12.75" These are all static measurements. My favorite setting is 100mm setting on the fork and dropping the shock i2i 1/4": HA=70 SA=72.5 BB=13.5". Probably same reasons why people like to run the Id with a 7.5" i2i shock.

The only beef I have with the Talas shock is, as you drop the i2i, the spring gets stiffer. But it's only a small nit pick because when I'm heading down hill with the i2i dropped, my weight is shifted more to the fork. The shock could still be a bit more supple.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
El Sol said:
I use a Talas front and rear. I will generally dial in the fork for the type of ride and don't mess with it much on the ride, but the switch on the rear shock is a quick flip and easy to reach while riding. Though, often I wish I had it connected to some sort of thumb shifter. (Anyone out there know of of something that might work, or do I have to make my own?)

I generally have the shock fully extended for climbs, especially if it's rocky with lot's of ledges and steps. I mostly ride with the i2i dropped by a 1/4", and will drop it the full 1/2" for heading down. If it's a long DH, I'll take a little air out of the shock to soften it up a bit.

Each 1/4" change on the shock slackens the geo by about a degree and drops the BB by a 3/8". Each 1" in change on the fork changes the geo by a degree and changes the BB ht 3/8". Everything fully extended the geo is HA=70 SA=72.5 BB=14.5" Fully dropped: HA=70.5 SA=73 BB=12.75" These are all static measurements. My favorite setting is 100mm setting on the fork and dropping the shock i2i 1/4": HA=70 SA=72.5 BB=13.5". Probably same reasons why people like to run the Id with a 7.5" i2i shock.

The only beef I have with the Talas shock is, as you drop the i2i, the spring gets stiffer. But it's only a small nit pick because when I'm heading down hill with the i2i dropped, my weight is shifted more to the fork. The shock could still be a bit more supple.

the higher bottom bracket is useful here as i ride mostly on cross-country ski trails (have about 70 km that start at my door, lots of climbs and drops that Warren Miller would like). Being a winter use track, the stumps and rocks which are usually snow covered become an issue, and last week the snow and ice forced me detour through the trees...nice way to start the year

Check out the thumb shifter on the 2005 Trek Fuel, intended to engage the lock outs on the front and rear, it uses standard brake cable, and looks like it can be adpated to suit
 

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trail fairy
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JM01 said:
had hoped that by lowering the BB, the angle of the chainstay would move up and raise the chain a bit higher so that it would not bang on the cage in the lower range. Am told that switching the shimano to a sram does away with the chatter, maybe try that later

thanks for the help
Get an X Gen fr D this has more drop at the rear than the XT plus its Sram all good I love it
 
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