Lyrik Solo Air, man. No real weight penalty compared to the Pike coil, and will (IMO) give the bike better geometry.
Bored Musings: thoughts on my build?
Sitting at the office a little bored and thought I'd post up my Endorphin build (to be completed in the next two weeks). For reference I'm approx 240 with gear and live in Colorado, so ride a nice mix of Front Range and western slope trails with more high country buffer trails:
Large Knolly Endorphin with CCDB (550 Ti spring)
RS Pike 454 Coil U-Turn (strongly considering a move a travel adjusted 36 Float RC2 or Lyrik Solo Air)
Thompson 60mm stem
Truvativ Noir WC Bar (680mm - likely swapping out for something in the 710 range)
Hope mini disc brakes (180 up front, 160 in the rear)
XT shifters, ders. and crankset (22-32-bash)
Stans Flow Rims, King hubs, 2.35 El Moco up front, 2.25 Ardent in the rear
Gravity dropper (may swap out for a Joplin to offset the Endo's long seat tube)
Large Knolly Endorphin with CCDB (550 Ti spring)
RS Pike 454 Coil U-Turn (strongly considering a move a travel adjusted 36 Float RC2 or Lyrik Solo Air)
Thompson 60mm stem
Truvativ Noir WC Bar (680mm - likely swapping out for something in the 710 range)
Hope mini disc brakes (180 up front, 160 in the rear)
XT shifters, ders. and crankset (22-32-bash)
Stans Flow Rims, King hubs, 2.35 El Moco up front, 2.25 Ardent in the rear
Gravity dropper (may swap out for a Joplin to offset the Endo's long seat tube)
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Even travel reduced to 140 or 150?scrublover said:Lyrik Solo Air, man. No real weight penalty compared to the Pike coil, and will (IMO) give the bike better geometry.
Hell yes. Even at my little weight, the difference in stiffness between the Pike and Lyrik is noticeable. Weight difference is negligible, so it comes down to price. Actually, it looks as if the Solo Air Lyrik is about 0.2# lighter than the coil Pike. Nice.Rontele said:Even travel reduced to 140 or 150?
Granted, yeah it won't mess with geo when dropped down, but at least you have the option to run it higher. I'd say try it at 160mm first, then drop it down if you dislike that.
sweet build but with no pics.... dude come on.
Psst: he hasn't gotten it built yet...b-kul said:sweet build but with no pics.... dude come on.
Mini's?
Will those brakes be enough stopping power?
Will those brakes be enough stopping power?
Personally, I would definately go with a wider bar (depends a bit on your height/shoulder width). You can always shorten it, but you cannot make a bar any wider. I would consider 710 the bare minimum..660mm is plain silly if you are doing any thing more than smooth gravel trails and are taller than 5'6". That is the bar equivalent of a SID carbon.
(at 6' even, I use a 29" bar on my all mt bike....777mm on the DH bike)
Thomson does not make a 60mm stem....
Also, unless you KNOW that the spring rate is spot on (riden differing rates on the same frame/shock in your terrain) I might suggest going with a steel spring untill you get it figured. Steel springs are cheap....the wrong ti spring can be quite costly.
The 32 is not a LOT of top end gearing. I like to go up to at least a 34 and combine that with an 11-34 XT in back (currently running 24/36 front). Gives a good spread (for our terrain) with fewer repeats.
If the minis dont have quite enough bite for you stock, a pad swap can make a big difference (improvement IMO). I have been on hopes (minis, mono minis, M4s, tech M4s, M6s) for years and always ditch the factory pads for EBC reds (wear a little quicker, but have tons more bite) but have heard good things about other brands as well.
Lastly, I would suggest NOT matching the Hubs and headset. They make great bearings, but the headset design (originally a threaded design and specifically not changed so as to avoid a patent royalty) is pretty poor from an engineering standpoint.
Of course, it is all personal opinion...................
Looks like a fun machine!!!
(at 6' even, I use a 29" bar on my all mt bike....777mm on the DH bike)
Thomson does not make a 60mm stem....
Also, unless you KNOW that the spring rate is spot on (riden differing rates on the same frame/shock in your terrain) I might suggest going with a steel spring untill you get it figured. Steel springs are cheap....the wrong ti spring can be quite costly.
The 32 is not a LOT of top end gearing. I like to go up to at least a 34 and combine that with an 11-34 XT in back (currently running 24/36 front). Gives a good spread (for our terrain) with fewer repeats.
If the minis dont have quite enough bite for you stock, a pad swap can make a big difference (improvement IMO). I have been on hopes (minis, mono minis, M4s, tech M4s, M6s) for years and always ditch the factory pads for EBC reds (wear a little quicker, but have tons more bite) but have heard good things about other brands as well.
Lastly, I would suggest NOT matching the Hubs and headset. They make great bearings, but the headset design (originally a threaded design and specifically not changed so as to avoid a patent royalty) is pretty poor from an engineering standpoint.
Of course, it is all personal opinion...................
Looks like a fun machine!!!
Sitting at the office bored beats sitting at home on unemployment,GET TO WORK!!!! Post pics.........
Wider bar is definitely in the cardsdavep said:Personally, I would definately go with a wider bar (depends a bit on your height/shoulder width). You can always shorten it, but you cannot make a bar any wider. I would consider 710 the bare minimum..660mm is plain silly if you are doing any thing more than smooth gravel trails and are taller than 5'6". That is the bar equivalent of a SID carbon.
(at 6' even, I use a 29" bar on my all mt bike....777mm on the DH bike)
Typo, 50mmThomson does not make a 60mm stem....
Bought it used with the Ti and Steel springs. If weight doesn't work, planning on going with steel first.Also, unless you KNOW that the spring rate is spot on (riden differing rates on the same frame/shock in your terrain) I might suggest going with a steel spring untill you get it figured. Steel springs are cheap....the wrong ti spring can be quite costly.
Yup. I think I'll swap out the cassette.The 32 is not a LOT of top end gearing. I like to go up to at least a 34 and combine that with an 11-34 XT in back (currently running 24/36 front). Gives a good spread (for our terrain) with fewer repeats
Already running EBCsIf the minis dont have quite enough bite for you stock, a pad swap can make a big difference (improvement IMO). I have been on hopes (minis, mono minis, M4s, tech M4s, M6s) for years and always ditch the factory pads for EBC reds (wear a little quicker, but have tons more bite) but have heard good things about other brands as well.
Couldn't agree more, which is why I forgot to say I am running a Cane Creek.Lastly, I would suggest NOT matching the Hubs and headset. They make great bearings, but the headset design (originally a threaded design and specifically not changed so as to avoid a patent royalty) is pretty poor from an engineering standpoint.
:thumbsup:
There is a LOT of adjustment on the CCDB. You can set it up pretty bad if you want.... It also has a tendancy to feel pretty slow in parking lot type tests...but can feel pretty differently once you ride it at speed on real terrain. It seems to like a bit less spring (more sag) than what you would run with a more 'run of the mill' shock. I would suggest starting at the suggested settings (did you get the booklet and shock dyno with the shock?) and making individual, small, and systematic changes so you dont get 'lost'.
Very happy with mine.
Again, sounds like you will be having fun with it!
There is a LOT of adjustment on the CCDB. You can set it up pretty bad if you want.... It also has a tendancy to feel pretty slow in parking lot type tests...but can feel pretty differently once you ride it at speed on real terrain. It seems to like a bit less spring (more sag) than what you would run with a more 'run of the mill' shock. I would suggest starting at the suggested settings (did you get the booklet and shock dyno with the shock?) and making individual, small, and systematic changes so you dont get 'lost'.
Very happy with mine.
Again, sounds like you will be having fun with it!
Yup. Coming with a manual and dyno. I'm stoked. I sense that the spring is likely going to be a bit heavy, but acquiring a new steel spring isn't a costly endeavor.davep said::thumbsup:
There is a LOT of adjustment on the CCDB. You can set it up pretty bad if you want.... It also has a tendancy to feel pretty slow in parking lot type tests...but can feel pretty differently once you ride it at speed on real terrain. It seems to like a bit less spring (more sag) than what you would run with a more 'run of the mill' shock. I would suggest starting at the suggested settings (did you get the booklet and shock dyno with the shock?) and making individual, small, and systematic changes so you dont get 'lost'.
Very happy with mine.
Again, sounds like you will be having fun with it!
oops, in my no pics rage i forgot to read.scrublover said:Psst: he hasn't gotten it built yet...
Sweet List so far.
I really like the Pike on my Pitch but will one day upgrade to a Lyrik.
So I would probibly do that.
Get some pictures when it comes togeather!!
I really like the Pike on my Pitch but will one day upgrade to a Lyrik.
So I would probibly do that.
Get some pictures when it comes togeather!!
I also say go with the beefier fork and coil. In my experience Heavier person = more air and not great small bump compliance in a air fork. Lower the air and it wallows.
Maybe air forks have improved in the last 2-3 years for persons over 200lbs.
lyric coil, van36 or 010 55 ti. Do that cddb and rear end justice.
Maybe air forks have improved in the last 2-3 years for persons over 200lbs.
lyric coil, van36 or 010 55 ti. Do that cddb and rear end justice.
Im actually going to be responsible and at least ride the bike with Pike.
I have a King Headset that has been in use for 9 years(Titus Switchblade,Six Pack) on rocky PA trails.
sounds like a good solid build.
A couple of suggestions.
Get a talas 36. My friends endo has a talas 36 and he rides it in the 130 setting a ton for up and downs and flowy trails. he even hits some pretty big gaps in that mode. He cranks it up to the 160mm for fast, long, rocky downhills.
At your weight i would be a little cautious of the stans flow rims. i weigh 180 and they are as light as i would want to go for my weight. I have been on them half of a season and hit some pretty decent stuff but i am always a little nervous for them at my weight.
should be a fun bike. i was really close to getting one until i saw the new banshee spitfire. too many good bikes coming out these days
A couple of suggestions.
Get a talas 36. My friends endo has a talas 36 and he rides it in the 130 setting a ton for up and downs and flowy trails. he even hits some pretty big gaps in that mode. He cranks it up to the 160mm for fast, long, rocky downhills.
At your weight i would be a little cautious of the stans flow rims. i weigh 180 and they are as light as i would want to go for my weight. I have been on them half of a season and hit some pretty decent stuff but i am always a little nervous for them at my weight.
should be a fun bike. i was really close to getting one until i saw the new banshee spitfire. too many good bikes coming out these days
No one cares. They might have nice bearings, but the HS design is inferior engineering. Any HS could last 9 years with good bearings chief, how much does yours creak?Bigrocks said:I have a King Headset that has been in use for 9 years(Titus Switchblade,Six Pack) on rocky PA trails.
There's a reason Cane Creek makes better headsets... they own the patent...
Looks like an awesome build.
I would take lyric u-turn over TALAS, as the uturn mechanism is much simpler from a mechanical standpoint, and you can get the lyric in air or coil w/ travel adjust, instead of just air.
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
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