Lyrik Solo Air, man. No real weight penalty compared to the Pike coil, and will (IMO) give the bike better geometry.
Even travel reduced to 140 or 150?scrublover said:Lyrik Solo Air, man. No real weight penalty compared to the Pike coil, and will (IMO) give the bike better geometry.
Hell yes. Even at my little weight, the difference in stiffness between the Pike and Lyrik is noticeable. Weight difference is negligible, so it comes down to price. Actually, it looks as if the Solo Air Lyrik is about 0.2# lighter than the coil Pike. Nice.Rontele said:Even travel reduced to 140 or 150?
Psst: he hasn't gotten it built yet...b-kul said:sweet build but with no pics.... dude come on.
Wider bar is definitely in the cardsdavep said:Personally, I would definately go with a wider bar (depends a bit on your height/shoulder width). You can always shorten it, but you cannot make a bar any wider. I would consider 710 the bare minimum..660mm is plain silly if you are doing any thing more than smooth gravel trails and are taller than 5'6". That is the bar equivalent of a SID carbon.
(at 6' even, I use a 29" bar on my all mt bike....777mm on the DH bike)
Typo, 50mmThomson does not make a 60mm stem....
Bought it used with the Ti and Steel springs. If weight doesn't work, planning on going with steel first.Also, unless you KNOW that the spring rate is spot on (riden differing rates on the same frame/shock in your terrain) I might suggest going with a steel spring untill you get it figured. Steel springs are cheap....the wrong ti spring can be quite costly.
Yup. I think I'll swap out the cassette.The 32 is not a LOT of top end gearing. I like to go up to at least a 34 and combine that with an 11-34 XT in back (currently running 24/36 front). Gives a good spread (for our terrain) with fewer repeats
Already running EBCsIf the minis dont have quite enough bite for you stock, a pad swap can make a big difference (improvement IMO). I have been on hopes (minis, mono minis, M4s, tech M4s, M6s) for years and always ditch the factory pads for EBC reds (wear a little quicker, but have tons more bite) but have heard good things about other brands as well.
Couldn't agree more, which is why I forgot to say I am running a Cane Creek.Lastly, I would suggest NOT matching the Hubs and headset. They make great bearings, but the headset design (originally a threaded design and specifically not changed so as to avoid a patent royalty) is pretty poor from an engineering standpoint.
Yup. Coming with a manual and dyno. I'm stoked. I sense that the spring is likely going to be a bit heavy, but acquiring a new steel spring isn't a costly endeavor.davep said::thumbsup:
There is a LOT of adjustment on the CCDB. You can set it up pretty bad if you want.... It also has a tendancy to feel pretty slow in parking lot type tests...but can feel pretty differently once you ride it at speed on real terrain. It seems to like a bit less spring (more sag) than what you would run with a more 'run of the mill' shock. I would suggest starting at the suggested settings (did you get the booklet and shock dyno with the shock?) and making individual, small, and systematic changes so you dont get 'lost'.
Very happy with mine.
Again, sounds like you will be having fun with it!
oops, in my no pics rage i forgot to read.scrublover said:Psst: he hasn't gotten it built yet...
No one cares. They might have nice bearings, but the HS design is inferior engineering. Any HS could last 9 years with good bearings chief, how much does yours creak?Bigrocks said:I have a King Headset that has been in use for 9 years(Titus Switchblade,Six Pack) on rocky PA trails.