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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't know if I'm using the correct terminology, but I'm building up an early nineties Bontrager mountain frame and I was wondering, how do I keep the axle from slipping in the dropouts and making the wheel go all crooked? I haven't mounted the front derailleur yet, but when I pedaled it around (cross-chained in low -front / high rear) a bit the wheel pulled loose and went crooked, the tire rubbing the non-drive chainstay.

Thanks everyone.
 

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You will need skewers with the ability to bite into the steel dropouts. Aluminum ones might not work. Steel ones will. Like said above, threaded bolts with nuts just won't work.

I used to run one of those with salsas. Tried control tech threaded bolts with nuts with no luck. I am currently running one with Paul's hubs with bolts with no problem but I use a long allen wrench to tighten them.
 

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velocipede technician
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Boy named SSue said:
I used to run one of those with salsas. Tried control tech threaded bolts with nuts with no luck. I am currently running one with Paul's hubs with bolts with no problem but I use a long allen wrench to tighten them.
so you've had luck with paul hubs on these frames...

good to know.

(please hurry up FedEx)
 

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Rumpfy said:
You needed a Paul rear SS hub?

Geez man, all you had to do is ask. :rolleyes:
black?

i dont want to rob the wheels off the voodoo.

could use some levers too...:rolleyes:
 

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Rumpfy said:
Black, unbuilt, 32h.

Sold off the Paul levers. They feel like sh!t.
Really? I've always liked them. They definately aren't as firm as other levers. When you really pull, they will actually flex but I like the feel over a lot of stuff.
 

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What would Tesco do?
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kenjihara said:
I don't know if I'm using the correct terminology, but I'm building up an early nineties Bontrager mountain frame and I was wondering, how do I keep the axle from slipping in the dropouts and making the wheel go all crooked? I haven't mounted the front derailleur yet, but when I pedaled it around (cross-chained in low -front / high rear) a bit the wheel pulled loose and went crooked, the tire rubbing the non-drive chainstay.

Thanks everyone.
Ringle and a few other aluminum ones have never worked for me. I run just good 'ol Shimano XT QR's on there and they work fine. You can really bear down on them w/o as much fear of exploding them like with some of the aluminum ones. :thumbsup:
 

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Shimano XT skerwers have always worked for me and not slipped on horizontal dropouts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
laffeaux said:
Shimano XT skerwers have always worked for me and not slipped on horizontal dropouts.
Shimano XT skewers are exactly what I am using, and they are not working. I was told by one person to use a brand new skewer, but I don't know that this will make a difference. I already had the skewer clamped a bit more tightly than I really like; I mean, tight.

Who has some advice for me?
 

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What would Tesco do?
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Probably a dumb question but have you checked to make sure the axle isn't too long? Maybe it's keeping the QR from applying enough pressure? :confused:

dunno....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
jack lantern said:
Probably a dumb question but have you checked to make sure the axle isn't too long? Maybe it's keeping the QR from applying enough pressure? :confused:

dunno....
It appears to be clamping down extremely tight. Tighter than I'd like, but it still pops out. It's got me a little baffled too. I might have to use some type of washer? I was hoping there was something simple that I was overlooking.
 

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kenjihara said:
Who has some advice for me?
well. if you're looking for a set-it-and-forget-it-sulution: surly tuggnut does the job.
just dremel the part which is at the end of the adjuster srew, so that it matches the rear outline of the dropout to avoid that it bits the dropouts from behind tooo much ...

works at my singlespeed as well :D





i was looking for a more esthetical sulition but transitional solutions always tend to stay for ever, you know ...

at general every tensioner who is long enough but plain at the inner side (if not: dremel is your friend) will do.

hope that helps
dirk
 

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gruenbaer said:
well. if you're looking for a set-it-and-forget-it-sulution: surly tuggnut does the job.
just dremel the part which is at the end of the adjuster srew, so that it matches the rear outline of the dropout to avoid that it bits the dropouts from behind tooo much ...

works at my singlespeed as well :D





i was looking for a more esthetical sulition but transitional solutions always tend to stay for ever, you know ...

at general every tensioner who is long enough but plain at the inner side (if not: dremel is your friend) will do.

hope that helps
dirk
neat build.
 

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I run three of my Klein's this way, with out any trouble at all.



First I customize the XT Hubs (grease guard type) by cutting down (13mm off) cheap 6 speed cassette bodys (the XT are hardened) that feature a "Male" looknut, then use a bottom bracket locknut to hold the single cassette cog in place...

This gives me a dishless hub (well almost 2mm off to the left) for a really strong wheel i also install solid axles with nuts and to complete the bullet proof package I use BMX chain tensioners.

Also to complete, I safety wire the chainring to the crank to avoid losee chainring bolts.
 
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