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George Dickel
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Ok, so maybe I over did it with the title. Anyway, a couple of days ago a client of mine who rides said that he only uses bolt on skewers rather than quick release, because he feels it is stiffer in front, and he has more confidence in their holding ability. Not to mention the weight loss:rolleyes: He rides a Stumpy fsr, if it makes any difference. Personally I didn't see how it would make any difference in stiffness, as the skewer diameter is the same, and if it is tight, it's tight, no matter how it gets that way. Anyway, he dropped off an extra set he had today for me to try on my Spot - the front fits fine, but the rear looks about an inch shorter than my XT quick release, and is too short to screw on. So, is this bupkus, or should I actually look for some bolt-on skewers that fit? :confused:
 

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old and busted
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Most of the guys I ride with use bolt-on skewers for weight savings, wheel theft deterrent, etc. I figured I'd give them a shot. The front fits without issue, but I tried 3 different brands and all of them were too short for the rear of my Burner and Spot. When I compared Turner dropouts to Titus, Fisher, and some others, they appear to be a good bit wider than other brands of frames. After three attempts and three failures, I decided to give up on the bolt-on skewer quest and go back to my trusty XTs.
 

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shivers said:
Most of the guys I ride with use bolt-on skewers for weight savings, wheel theft deterrent, etc. I figured I'd give them a shot. The front fits without issue, but I tried 3 different brands and all of them were too short for the rear of my Burner and Spot.
So, could you tell any difference in the front? How much do you weight? What fork do you put it on?
 

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I want that one
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man, you are in very deep weight weenie territory. i.e. if you want to shave grams off your nitrous or xc ht racer...
I think that all the other advantages are negligible after the first time you'll have a flat on the trail
 

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I don't do PC
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I switched from a Hope XC hub w/Salsa QR to a Hadley 10mm bolt-on hub for the Burner and I've definitely noticed the difference, more solid connection. Could be the larger interface and 10mm axle compared to the Hope hub.

I've got a standard Ringle hub with XT QR on the RFX but I would like to go with a similiar setup when I get some better wheels for the RFX
 

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old and busted
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glader60 said:
So, could you tell any difference in the front? How much do you weight? What fork do you put it on?
No real difference in stiffness perceived by me between the QR and the bolt-on. I run about 220 fully geared. This was with a Fox Float RLC 130 on my Spot. The added security of needing a 5mm allen to remove the front wheel is nice. Over tightening doesn't seem to be a big concern. I just snugged it up without trying to give it a gorilla grip. Checked after the first ride and then again a couple rides later ... no loosening detected.

I've been searching for a longer socket cap bolt for the rear, but with no luck so far. I did find a fastener company that made a bolt long enough to work, but you needed to buy a lot of 200 pieces. :eek:

Having a flat with a bolt-on is easier IMO. you loosen up the bolt, pull the wheel, throw in a tube, put on the wheel an re-tighten. I truly prefer a bolt-on rather than trying to find the "sweet spot" on a QR (of course you could always run a Quiknut and take care of that issue).
 

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not so super...
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Jerk_Chicken said:
I am considering this for safety, as the Hope skewer on the front of my RFX has worked its way loose twice on a trip I'm on.

What would I end up using? I would also be concerned about overtightening.
If you are worring about a QR on a RFX then you are running the wrong fork anyway:rolleyes: :D
 

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Hope QR's are notorious in the Land of Hope (and Glory) ;) for coming loose...

So much so that Hope have dropped the Ti version altogether due to stretch issues that result in the QR constantly working loose. XT skewers are about the most secure I've some across, Mavic ones that overlock also work well but are pretty expensive unless they come with a wheelset.
 

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a.k.a. MTBMaven
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Jerk_Chicken said:
Na, I don't ride hard enough to warrant the thru-axle just yet.
Switching to a thru axel will help you ride hard enough to warrant its use. When I switched from a Vanilla QR to a Pike with 20mm axel I noticed a huge difference in my ability to ride at higher speeds on very rough and rocky trails (think Sunset Ridge Trail and Middle Sam Merril for you LA ANF riders). The front end just ploughed through the rough stuff. BIG difference the first time out.

To the point of the thread, I have been using bolt ons for years now. I got them from Odds and Endos at a great price. Go with the steal ones, great price and weight. They are supper quick to take on and off plus you don't have to find that sweet spot like another poster stated. I only run the bolt on in the rear now because of the 20mm Maxel on my Pike (love the Maxel BTW). I used to run it on my Vanilla when I still used that fork. I rigged up a way to attach a 5mm allen wrench to my seat post for easy access to the wrench when I ran a bolt on on the front.

I was told on the brake forum that the bolt ons are stronger than QR and that I should use them on the Vanilla when I moved from a 140mm rotor to 160mm.
 

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HIKE!
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Yes, you do!

Jerk_Chicken said:
Na, I don't ride hard enough to warrant the thru-axle just yet.
Yes you do:

"I am considering this for safety, as the Hope skewer on the front of my RFX has worked its way loose twice on a trip I'm on."

if you are working a QR loose up front, you oughta be in 20mm thru-axle country! Think "Maxle"! Especially on an RFX, that's a meaty bike.
 

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HIKE!
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Just blame it on

the fact that you are a bad a$$, they are obviously taking it easy, you must be laying it all on the line. Maybe your skewer, fork's dropout faces, or hub lock nut (or some combo of the 3) have some sorta "out of parallel" situation going on. Something is squirming and allowing motion.

I'd like to see ALL disc brake equipped bikes with a through axle like the Maxle, as I see some pretty poorly, near death defyingly, used QRs in the shop, just scary at times.
 

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Hope Skewers

Just to repeat what Paul5s said, as I think it's worth repeating for saftes sake. Hope skewers have quite a reputation over here for working their way lose. So if you are having problems with them, then it maybe well worth changing.

XT skewers work well. I am using some WTB skewers and they have been very secure.

It is always worth checking your wheel skewers are done up tight, especially before a descent. When you tighten the skewer, you should feel it become hard to move and sort of get through this point and become easier to move.

Sorry if all this is stating the obvious but you do NOT want your front wheel falling out!! :nono:

There has been a lot of talk about powerful disc brakes making skewers more likely to come lose, but I don't know if anyone has actually proved this to be the case yet.
 

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old and busted
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mtnfiend said:
To the point of the thread, I have been using bolt ons for years now. I got them from Odds and Endos at a great price. Go with the steal ones, great price and weight. They are supper quick to take on and off plus you don't have to find that sweet spot like another poster stated. I only run the bolt on in the rear now because of the 20mm Maxel on my Pike (love the Maxel BTW).
You don't have any issues with the OaE rear skewer bolt being too short? I ordered a set from Mike and I couldn't even get the cap nut to thread onto the bolt. I tried the Nashbars after that and had the same issue (some guys in the WW forum claim the skewers from both places are the same). I got a measurement of about 161-162mm for the rear skewer bolt. I'd need at least 5mm more on the bolt to even get some contact/thread going. I had this same issue with my Burner and Spot.
 

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a.k.a. MTBMaven
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shivers said:
You don't have any issues with the OaE rear skewer bolt being too short? I ordered a set from Mike and I couldn't even get the cap nut to thread onto the bolt. I tried the Nashbars after that and had the same issue (some guys in the WW forum claim the skewers from both places are the same). I got a measurement of about 161-162mm for the rear skewer bolt. I'd need at least 5mm more on the bolt to even get some contact/thread going. I had this same issue with my Burner and Spot.
Sorry I replied to this post because I though the topic was interesting but not because I ride a Turner. Please don't throwing anything :) I ride a Yeti 575 and rode a Specialized Enduro before that. The OaE rear bolt on fit without a problem on both. The rear drop outs on my 575 seem to be thinker than the ones on my Enduro, how the drop outs compare to a 5-Spot I have no idea. Sorry not much help there.
 
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