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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m considering going to bolt on skewers for weight reduction but I run discs which are sensitive to how tight the quick release is to ensure that the caliper and rotor are perfectly parallel (no rubbing). Are bolt on skewers better in this regard (easy to replicate the right tension) than quick release skewers?
 

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how is the alignment of the disc brakes affected by how tight your skewers are? Tightening the skewers more shouldnt move the frame/dropouts or the hubs and rotors....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Theoretically, no it shouldn't. But in real life...

It does. At least on my bikes it does. How tight the QR and the placement of the QR lever affect the alignment of the caliper to the rotor. For example, for the same tension, I can place the lever at the 12 o'clock position with no rub. If I move it to the 3 o'clock position or any other position for that matter (ensuring that I move the opposing nut the same number of degrees to ensure same tension), I will get rub. If I turn the tension up a quarter of a turn but keeping the lever at the 12 o'clock position, I will get rub (the same holds true if I loosen the skewer). My theory is that hubs and forks (and seat stays) are designed to flex in a certain degree and the hub's bearings (especially cup and cone type hubs like Shimano hubs) are designed to "tighten" when the skewers are tightened. Since rotor and caliper clearances are measured in fractions of a millimeter, any tiny deviations from optimum tension will throw it out of alignment enough to cause rub.
Just my own personal theory of course...
 

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Hoops - Big and Small
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Weighting the Dropout

flipnidaho said:
How tight the QR and the placement of the QR lever affect the alignment of the caliper to the rotor..
The dropout is the black magic part of clamping force and alignment. Is your DO painted? Does it have notches from the skewer teeth? Is in ALU or steel?

Try mounting the wheel without the tire on it, try a repeat the clamping force differences your seeing now at your rotor/pad at the rim, you should see the difference magnified even more using chain/seat stay as the reference.

I try and tighten my quick release skewer the same every time with the skewer lever perpendicular to the bike, then tighten the finger nut tight, then slam the lever home. Using the weight of the bike to set the hub in the top of the dropouts.

I think your onto some thing - I use the 4 pot xt brakes and the pads run a pretty tight tolerance of gap between pad and rotor. I find it very hard to get repeatable wheel mounting. I usually just reset the pads to the newly mounted wheel and I'am good to go.
 

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Hoops - Big and Small
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Bolt on Smolt on

flipnidaho said:
Have you tried bolt ons?
G
On my cruiser - hehe, Not on my Maverick. So I can't speak directly to bolt on helping your situation.

Any skewer that is designed to be light probably wont end up on my bike.

If I had the cash I would love to try an oversized axel/hub front and rear to add strength to the frame.
 

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I too have fought many a time with QRs and rotor clearance. It always seems worse in the rear too. I've also noticed that if your RD hanger is part of the drop out and it gets bent, you can be in a world of hurt as far as alignment.

I have deemax's for my FR bike and absolutely love the bolt on in the rear (save for the fact that i now have to carry a cone wrench just in case I flat :mad: ) The bolt on is great for making sure the rotor is aligned. (at least in my case it was)
 

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ballbuster
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Yep...

bhsavery said:
how is the alignment of the disc brakes affected by how tight your skewers are? Tightening the skewers more shouldnt move the frame/dropouts or the hubs and rotors....
TIghtening the skewer compresses the axle a small amount. I've seen it make my Hopes drag a tad.

The effect is so pronounced, it can throw off your cup and cone bearing adjustment by a noticable amount. On my C+C hubs, I leave a tad of slop in the adjustment, and that slop disappears when the QR is tight. If I adjust them with no slop in the cones, it drags when the QR is tight.

You use a cone wrench on axle nuts? Dang, aren't you afraid you won't get the nuts tight enough before you bend the krapp outa the cone wrench or strip the nuts? Use a proper open ended wrench or a cresent wrench.

Oh, and avoid Delta Axle Rodz. They suck something awful, and IMO are dangerous. I've stripped two sets without applying much force.

<- hopes he never gets a rear flat on his fixie, cause he never carries a wrench.
 

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pimpbot said:
You use a cone wrench on axle nuts? Dang, aren't you afraid you won't get the nuts tight enough before you bend the krapp outa the cone wrench or strip the nuts? Use a proper open ended wrench or a cresent wrench.
cone wrench only when changing a flat (hasn't happened yet) ;) I always use an open end wrench when working at home.
 

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Control Tech

Happy Trails said:
At this point what is the best and lightest bolt ons
Maybe not the exact thing you're looking for, but I've used the Control Tech 5mm hex key bolt on for 12 years now. I used them on front track wheels for 5 years, and two mtn bikes now. One with discs, one without, both with no problems. I've used front and rear for FS XC bikes. Now I just use the rear on my Maverick and the front is on my road bike.
 
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