Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
new specialized enduro :)
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
G'day All,

(Firstly, Happy New Year)

I'm riding a large Blur LT2 kitted out with the following drivetrain:
Cassette SRAM PG 970, 11-34
Crankarms TruVativ Stylo w/ Giga X Drive 22/32/44
Bottom Bracket Included w/ crankset
Rear Derailleur SRAM X9 long cage
Chain SRAM PC 971
Front Derailleur Shimano M660 (SLX)
Shifter Pods SRAM X7 triggers

Recently, I have had a very frequent problem where whilst pedalling (generally under higher loads, but occaisionally softer pedalling also) whilst in the middle chainring, my chain decides to get sucked up above the bend in the lower chainstay - I can keep pedalling a few strokes before the cranks refuse to keep turning. Also, I can typically fix the issue by doing a couple of backward pedal rotations (but this kills momentum on the climbs)

Anyon had any similar issues/ can suggest a fix?

Cheers,

Andrew
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
784 Posts
I am getting that occasionaly. My drive train is due to be replace. In my experiences that is usually a result of worn part. Replace your chain, front ring (middle) and cassete. If your stuff is new, I have no idea what the problem is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I have the same problem on my LT2. Especially when I shift from the middle to the small chainring under high load.
My setup is nearly the same as yours, but I have a 2010 race face deus xc crank.
And all parts are brand new, except the rear derailleur.
The first time this happened I thought it was my old Stylo that was warn out so I replaced it with the deus. But still the same problem sometimes.

Also the chain is so close to the lower linkage when you ride in a low gear on the small chainring.
Don`t know how to solve this problem! Any ideas? :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,656 Posts
Your drivetrain is most likely in need of replacement. The best thing you can do (once you get new stuff) is put chains on more frequently as it keeps your drivetrain running like new for longer. If I wait until the suggested chain stretch, the cassette is shot and won't work with a new chain so I replace it early and get maybe 3 chains out of a cassette and front ring set.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,656 Posts
Also, if you want your drivetrain to last the longest, the XT front middle ring, and the SLX small ring are steel but very light weight. Aluminum just doesn't last very long and around here i would have to replace the 22t al 2x for every chain which gets expensive fast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,098 Posts
i also had chain suck issues when my bike was new, and i started cleaning and lubing the chain after every ride. that seemed to take care of the problem. compared to my rigid bike, the BLT2 seems more sensitive to a dirty drivetrain
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,656 Posts
dth656 said:
i also had chain suck issues when my bike was new, and i started cleaning and lubing the chain after every ride. that seemed to take care of the problem. compared to my rigid bike, the BLT2 seems more sensitive to a dirty drivetrain
That's usually from a sticky chain link. If that happens again, you need to find the sticky one and bend it back and forth a little bit just with hand pressure till it loosens up.
 

·
Got A Lust for Life...
Joined
·
2,969 Posts
The LT2 is not more prone to dirt diggling than any other frame ever made. That would be impossible. Drivetrains are drivetrains are drivetrains. It is not the frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
949 Posts
debur the chain ring

Get out your dremel and debur between the chain ring teeth. You should see metal rolled over the edge of the bottom of each tooth (especially if the material is aluminum). Get rid of this, and the chain suck should go away.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
MarkHL said:
Get out your dremel and debur between the chain ring teeth. You should see metal rolled over the edge of the bottom of each tooth (especially if the material is aluminum). Get rid of this, and the chain suck should go away.
But what could it be, if all the parts are brand new?:confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
949 Posts
Zauberdaemon said:
But what could it be, if all the parts are brand new?:confused:
I was responding to the first post, I did not read yours: The first poster has a "TruVativ Stylo w/ Giga X Drive 22/32/44"
My stylo small ring deformed very quickly (20 rides); the aluminum seemed soft. While deburring the ring "fixed" the problem I eventually replaced it with a steel ring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,656 Posts
Zauberdaemon said:
But what could it be, if all the parts are brand new?:confused:
Your chain could have some sticky links. Slowly turn the cranks and watch the links as they come off the idler gears on the rear derailleur. You can usually see which ones are stiff. Twist those back and forth a little till they move freely.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top