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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Evening guys...

Any setup tips for a Fox Float CTD on a Blur LT2? I've tried rebound 100% fast and slow, and in between, and have the air at 150psi for my weight of 80kg with gear, and it just feels a little too firm for my liking, seems to jar me around a lot more than the Heckler did on general trail chatter. I'd say the small bump compliance is worse and the overall plushness not as supple. I'm also only using around 50% of the total travel when checking the rubber o-ring after a ride. Sag is set correctly too.

What it does do far far better is climb, especially technical climbing, on the trail mode on the shock, climb setting isn't even needed it goes very well. Its the general flat trail settings I need to dial in...

I'm thinking about dropping the pressure to 135 psi when I get out next weekend, which is 8 kilo below my weight as per recommend, but this should let me use more of the travel and increase comfort right?

blt_large.jpg
 

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I've had a couple different versions of the heckler and blt and over the past few years. The 2 suspension setups are pretty different. Part of what your feeling in the chatter is something many BLT riders notice. This may improve a little with air pressures and shock break-in. I found a kashima shock performed a little better than the regular float. If $ isnt an object, Id hit up Push to see what they can maybe do for you (only after you've played with pressures and let the shock break in, you have to get a solid baseline).

Good luck getting things sorted, BLT is a great bike!!!!

If you really want to geek out on the differences in the suspension, keep reading...

This is a great writeup Shock Rates V1.0 | Santa Cruz Bicycles

More info here (even though this is the 650, the overall concept is the same form the 26 to the 650 version of the heckler) - use google translate - Santa Cruz Heckler 650B - Linkage Design

Santa Cruz Blur LT 2011 - Linkage Design
 

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I had the BLTc which I guess is similar VPP to BLT2, and from what I remember you need much more air in the CTD. I am lighter than you and used 170PSI.

Forget this chart and set air by sag. The chart is just a starting point, not what you actually end up with. I personally liked 20% or even less on this bike.

Notice that when setting sag you need the shock with the least damping possible, Descend mode and minimum rebound. There are many videos on youtube and online tutorials about setting shock sag.
 

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Set your shock by using the correct sag. 1/3 (maybe a hair less) is optimum IMO for the LTc. Small bump compliance is average, square edge hits is bad, climbing is superior, welcome to the VPP. Taking all the travel it depends on how and what you are riding. I am 96kgs and run 185psi. In moderate jumps bottoms out easily.
I do not now though if a different shock would help this frame better.
 

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What is the factory tune on the compression/velocity on your shock? The Blur LT originally came with a rp23 with a Low factory tune. If it's a medium or high this could be your problem

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
 

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7am Backcountry ;- )
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What shock was on the heckler?

Fox Float RP23




I've had a couple different versions of the heckler and blt and over the past few years. The 2 suspension setups are pretty different. Part of what your feeling in the chatter is something many BLT riders notice. This may improve a little with air pressures and shock break-in. I found a kashima shock performed a little better than the regular float. If $ isnt an object, Id hit up Push to see what they can maybe do for you (only after you've played with pressures and let the shock break in, you have to get a solid baseline).
Cheers Dan great links!

I'll try the 15 PSI drop to 135 this weekend and report back. Any tips on dialing in the rebound? Start on slowest then go up or?




Set your shock by using the correct sag. 1/3 (maybe a hair less) is optimum IMO for the LTc. Small bump compliance is average, square edge hits is bad, climbing is superior, welcome to the VPP. Taking all the travel it depends on how and what you are riding. I am 96kgs and run 185psi. In moderate jumps bottoms out easily.
I do not now though if a different shock would help this frame better.

At 150PSI its pretty much 25% sag, so i'll see what PSI it takes to get 33%.

How would you say Single Pivot compares then for small bump compliance, square edge hits and climbing? I know my Heckler certainly climbed a lot worse, but with a flick of the RP23 switch I could lock out the back so it wasn't ever an issue.




What is the factory tune on the compression/velocity on your shock? The Blur LT originally came with a rp23 with a Low factory tune. If it's a medium or high this could be your problem

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Is there a way to check? It came direct from Santa Cruz USA, with the shock fitted.
 

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"Is there a way to check? It came direct from Santa Cruz USA, with the shock fitted."

Depending on the year of the shock, they're may be a bar chart on the narrower side of the air can. You can kindof make it out on the pic of your rp23. Red is rebound, Blue is compression, little white bar is light, big bar is heavy(relative).

On the newer shocks they changed from the bar chart to a speed style tune indicator, I cant say I'm too knowledgeable on that flavor.

My experience with the BLT was that the suspension gobbled everything mid to large with no remorse. Only place for improvement was in the small bump, and that did seem to be better with the kashima.

Here is a thread I started in 2010, I was in your same situation, coming off a heckler. http://forums.mtbr.com/santa-cruz/last-chance-lt2-647748.html

Again, give it some time. That bike is areal gem once you get it set up properly.
 

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What mode are you running it in? I always run mine in Descend mode regardless of situation, otherwise it's to firm. +/- 5 PSI also made a difference to me. Also make sure you are setting sag in descend mode. How much sag are you running now? 30% seems to be the right number for me. The tune of the Float CTD is on the shock itself there is a sticker at the base of the can, it'll say rebound tune, velocity tune etc, if you bought new from SC then I'm sure its right.
 

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I went from a 2004 Heckler to a BLTc, and the bike rode better in pretty much every single way I thought. It did take me an age to get the shock pressure right so as to not wallow in travel, and be snappy on climbs (and suck up the little bumps) but I did, and it was awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Fyi a coil shock feels great on that bike.

Any suggestions? :)


"Is there a way to check? It came direct from Santa Cruz USA, with the shock fitted."

Depending on the year of the shock, they're may be a bar chart on the narrower side of the air can. You can kindof make it out on the pic of your rp23. Red is rebound, Blue is compression, little white bar is light, big bar is heavy(relative).

On the newer shocks they changed from the bar chart to a speed style tune indicator, I cant say I'm too knowledgeable on that flavor.

My experience with the BLT was that the suspension gobbled everything mid to large with no remorse. Only place for improvement was in the small bump, and that did seem to be better with the kashima.

Here is a thread I started in 2010, I was in your same situation, coming off a heckler. http://forums.mtbr.com/santa-cruz/last-chance-lt2-647748.html

Again, give it some time. That bike is areal gem once you get it set up properly.
Cheers will give it a read :D Even the bigger hits are feeling very jerky at the moment, i'm convinced 150PSI is too much pressure. Going off me running 120psi in the Heckler RP23. (lower than the manual reccomended again for my weight)



What mode are you running it in? I always run mine in Descend mode regardless of situation, otherwise it's to firm. +/- 5 PSI also made a difference to me. Also make sure you are setting sag in descend mode. How much sag are you running now? 30% seems to be the right number for me. The tune of the Float CTD is on the shock itself there is a sticker at the base of the can, it'll say rebound tune, velocity tune etc, if you bought new from SC then I'm sure its right.
Never thought of descend mode for all riding, the fact they call it descend, trail, climb, made me feel bad for leaving it in descend on the flatter stuff! Subliminal marketing!

I suppose descend is fully open though, in the same way the RP23 two way dial on the Heckler, has two settings, fully open, or closed 1, 2, 3 damping.

I will try Descend mode for everything, bar climbing which I could flick it into Trail mode? I find the Climb mode is full on hardtrail, and feels unnecessary when Trail climbs so well.

I went from a 2004 Heckler to a BLTc, and the bike rode better in pretty much every single way I thought. It did take me an age to get the shock pressure right so as to not wallow in travel, and be snappy on climbs (and suck up the little bumps) but I did, and it was awesome!
Cheers another vote for getting it dialed in properly!
 

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You can try less sag (more pressure). It will give you more travel in the lower spring curve, and with the BLT's falling shock rate at the beginning of the stroke make it more active. Its also great if you jump and ride a lot of rocks, harder to bottom the shock on landings.

The downside is that it will bob more climbing, but that can be easily fixed if you flip the lever on the shock. You kind of have to choose between plushness (less sag) or pedal efficiency (more sag). My choice was plushness, because the bob is not really bad and you can always flip the switch. This bike was always nervous at speed, so making it as calm as possible was more important for me than pedaling. The change in head angle in different sags is pretty minimal.

Cheap experiment, take the shock pump to the trail and ride the same section a few times with different pressures.
 

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Is it worth to try the new BOS Kirk rear shock on this frame or from one hand the CTD is just fine and from the other, the blur now is obsolete and doesn't worth the upgrade? What do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Xfusion vector, rockshox vivid, ccdb. But not fox dhx rc4 its overdamped imo.

thanks! will check those out, after i've exhausted every dialling option on the CTD :D


Agree on leaving in descend mode 99.9% of the time. I rarely flipped the switch to one of the other settings.
Cheers! am I right in saying

RP23 VS CTD
1. RP23 Open = CTD Descend mode
2. RP23 Closed on setting 1 (softest lockout) = CTD Trail mode
3. RP23 Closed on setting 3 (stiffest lockout) = CTD Climb mode


Also how do RP23's do on the Blur LT2?




You can try less sag (more pressure). It will give you more travel in the lower spring curve, and with the BLT's falling shock rate at the beginning of the stroke make it more active. Its also great if you jump and ride a lot of rocks, harder to bottom the shock on landings.

The downside is that it will bob more climbing, but that can be easily fixed if you flip the lever on the shock. You kind of have to choose between plushness (less sag) or pedal efficiency (more sag). My choice was plushness, because the bob is not really bad and you can always flip the switch. This bike was always nervous at speed, so making it as calm as possible was more important for me than pedaling. The change in head angle in different sags is pretty minimal.

Cheap experiment, take the shock pump to the trail and ride the same section a few times with different pressures.

I ride aggressive XC, with very little jumps, but the main nark point at the moment is the sheer lack of small bump compliance and being jerked about on little ruts the Heckler would just steam roll over. For this would less PSI = more sag, improve this? as its easier for the shock to soak up the small bumps better?


Is it worth to try the new BOS Kirk rear shock on this frame or from one hand the CTD is just fine and from the other, the blur now is obsolete and doesn't worth the upgrade? What do you think?

Only got the Blur last year, and didnt get chance to ride much when monsoon season started, so this Spring is my first chance to hit the trails :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
What is the factory tune on the compression/velocity on your shock? The Blur LT originally came with a rp23 with a Low factory tune. If it's a medium or high this could be your problem

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Managed to get a pic of the shock tune setting what does this mean? (it says custom tune so i'm hoping its right!)

 

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I ride aggressive XC, with very little jumps, but the main nark point at the moment is the sheer lack of small bump compliance and being jerked about on little ruts the Heckler would just steam roll over. For this would less PSI = more sag, improve this? as its easier for the shock to soak up the small bumps better?
You will only really know once you try it yourself. Take a shock pump with you on the trail and change pressure. Its also good to know how the shock behaves on its extremes, you may find different setups for different conditions (like racing, downhill, trail, etc)
 
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