[RiftZone]

Just got my '04 Blur last June and I know it's too early to be worrying about it now, but from what I've been reading it's a high wear and tear part for Fox Float spec'd frames.

Anybody got a picture of where it is in the frame? I apologize if I sound too much of a noob. Would really appreciate it if someone can post a picture or illustration. Yeah it's election year, but just a picture of the DU BUSHing would do.

Thanks

 

[Blue Shorts]

Just got my '04 Blur last June and I know it's too early to be worrying about it now, but from what I've been reading it's a high wear and tear part for Fox Float spec'd frames.

Anybody got a picture of where it is in the frame? I apologize if I sound too much of a noob. Would really appreciate it if someone can post a picture or illustration. Yeah it's election year, but just a picture of the DU BUSHing would do.

Thanks

The DU bushings are inside the eyelets of the rear shock. Those bushings are cylindrical in shape and very thin. The reducers fit into the bushings. The bolts at both ends of the shock go right through the middle of the reducers (aluminum) and the reducers poke through the DU bushings which are in the eyelets (the holes at both ends of the shock).

The shiny silver things at the top and bottom of the shock are the reducers. They're inserted inside the eyelet of the shock.l There's actually a very thin bushing between the eyelet and the reducers....the DU bushing.

I hope that helps.

 

[RiftZone]

Yeah, that does help. Thanks for the info.

The DU bushings are inside the eyelets of the rear shock. Those bushings are cylindrical in shape and very thin. The reducers fit into the bushings. The bolts at both ends of the shock go right through the middle of the reducers (aluminum) and the reducers poke through the DU bushings which are in the eyelets (the holes at both ends of the shock).

The shiny silver things at the top and bottom of the shock are the reducers. They're inserted inside the eyelet of the shock.l There's actually a very thin bushing between the eyelet and the reducers....the DU bushing.

I hope that helps.

 

[alf333]

Thanks that helped me too.

I posted a very similar question in "blur back end questions", but no one answered.

I was also wondering about tightening the pivot bolts. On the lower bolts, has anyone grinded the inside of their granny ring to get to the bolt without removing rings? (I'm talking about a small notch made with a dremel tool to make it easier to get an allen wrench in there).

Also, are the piot bolts supposed to move at all, if you only turn one side?

I have a gen 2 blur picked up in Aug. 2003, just trying to get ready for some maintenance.

 

[Blue Shorts]

Thanks that helped me too.

I posted a very similar question in "blur back end questions", but no one answered.

I was also wondering about tightening the pivot bolts. On the lower bolts, has anyone grinded the inside of their granny ring to get to the bolt without removing rings? (I'm talking about a small notch made with a dremel tool to make it easier to get an allen wrench in there).

Also, are the piot bolts supposed to move at all, if you only turn one side?

I have a gen 2 blur picked up in Aug. 2003, just trying to get ready for some maintenance.

Sorry. I don't know nuthin' 'bout birthin no babies.

I can't help you with the pivots. You may want to start a thread about the pivot bolts. Do a search first. This topic was probably covered recently.

 

[Jesterrider]

Hmmm - great info - thanks! Should these be replaced? If so, do I have to send it to Fox for service?
I have 2 seasons on the Blur and am approcahing 2k offroad miles in tough terrain.

thanks!

 

[Blue Shorts]

Hmmm - great info - thanks! Should these be replaced? If so, do I have to send it to Fox for service?
I have 2 seasons on the Blur and am approcahing 2k offroad miles in tough terrain.

thanks!

Replace them when you notice play. Pick up you bike by the seatpost and pull up and down on the swingarm. If you notice a clunking (vertical play), it's most likely the DU bushings and reducers. Side to side play is not the shock bushings.

You'll need the right tool for the DU bushings. Take it to your LBS. It should take 5 minutes. I expect with 2K miles that you'd need new bushings, but not always. Do the test.

 

[Jesterrider]

While there is no particular play in the bike, I did take the shock off today and perform the Fox prescribed Air Sleeve maint. The shock had been creaking pretty badly from the top pivot, so I figured it was high time for some service.
The air sleeve maint went pretty smooth, except the top reducers would not come out. It took quite a bit of convincing at the vice to get them out. I was not gentle on them, knowing that I could get replacements pretty easily, but I did not want to trash them if I did not have to either. I finally got them out and carefully filed any burs created by the extraction process. Everything got cleaned, etc and I noticed that even clean the reducers on top would take a hammer to install. So, I went about the business of 'shaving' them down a little. My trick? Stuff the reducer onto the handle of a toothbrush to hold it and them use a small file to slowly shave away. I followed the file with 200 grit sand paper for smoothing. Since this aluminum is like butter, it did not take long. I'm quite certain that it's not exactly 'round' but it is much better and I'm sure I can get it out next time if needed. All back together and no worries so far.
I also took the upper pivots apart on the Blur. They came apart nicely and got a good cleaning/greasing. The lowers seem to have the shafts stuck to the bearings so I'll wait until I replace the bearings to swap them out.
The big question is, after 2 seasons and 2000 miles, should I just pop in a bearing kit, or wait for issues?

 

[glenzx]

While there is no particular play in the bike, I did take the shock off today and perform the Fox prescribed Air Sleeve maint. The shock had been creaking pretty badly from the top pivot, so I figured it was high time for some service.

Dang it, I wish folks would search the SC threads for Blur maintanence issues like this, as it's all been covered! The creak solution was not to mangle your reducers, but most likely just grease the shaft & pivot at the front of the shock (covered by Nat)! Those reducers are SUPOOSED to very tight, I think it unwise to perform the modification that you did..... when the reducers are worn, they slide right in & out of the DU bushings, if tight, I'd have recommended LEAVING THEM ALONE! Unless they were seized or something (unlikely). You don't need a hammer, just a bolt & a nut, and some washers to 'press' the reducers back in, BTW. Don't ever hammer on parts, unless it's a last resort! Good to have done the sleeve maintanence though...

The air sleeve maint went pretty smooth, except the top reducers would not come out. It took quite a bit of convincing at the vice to get them out. I was not gentle on them, knowing that I could get replacements pretty easily, but I did not want to trash them if I did not have to either. I finally got them out and carefully filed any burs created by the extraction process. Everything got cleaned, etc and I noticed that even clean the reducers on top would take a hammer to install. So, I went about the business of 'shaving' them down a little. My trick? Stuff the reducer onto the handle of a toothbrush to hold it and them use a small file to slowly shave away. I followed the file with 200 grit sand paper for smoothing. Since this aluminum is like butter, it did not take long. I'm quite certain that it's not exactly 'round' but it is much better and I'm sure I can get it out next time if needed. All back together and no worries so far.

Again, reducer "sanding" = bad! (see above)

I also took the upper pivots apart on the Blur. They came apart nicely and got a good cleaning/greasing. The lowers seem to have the shafts stuck to the bearings so I'll wait until I replace the bearings to swap them out.
The big question is, after 2 seasons and 2000 miles, should I just pop in a bearing kit, or wait for issues?

The upper pivots are the least likely to need servicing... it's the lowers that bear the brunt of the abuse on the Blur. The only maintanence I'd suggest, when no play is evident as you claim(ed) is to clean & lube & loc-tite the lower pivot shafts! Yours are now seized, which is no good as indeed when you go to 'force' them out, it's fairly likely a bearing will come out with it (them) Once every couple of weeks/months it's worth removing this hardware and checking the bearings for roughness, and re-lubing the shafts.....

Amazing you've ridden 2000 miles with no play developing! I get horrible slop after 200 at the (rear) shock pivot. But that's why the frame is on the way back to SC! (3rd time, hopefully the "charm")

 

[Jesterrider]

I hear ya - but I was just following the Fox service manual instructions asking for me to remove the reducers. Clearly they think they should come out somewhat easily. I recognize that I putzed where I should not have putzed and filed what was not meant to be filed. I did this, however, expecting that to replace the DU and reducers was likely on the docket before the next season and more for curiousity than actual repair anyway. I expect that worst case I would need to replace the reducer and DU - best case, I learn something and can pass it along. I've not learned anything yet, too early to tell, but I will reply later as to how things are wearing this winter.

 

[glenzx]

I hear ya - but I was just following the Fox service manual instructions asking for me to remove the reducers. Clearly they think they should come out somewhat easily. I recognize that I putzed where I should not have putzed and filed what was not meant to be filed. I did this, however, expecting that to replace the DU and reducers was likely on the docket before the next season and more for curiousity than actual repair anyway. I expect that worst case I would need to replace the reducer and DU - best case, I learn something and can pass it along. I've not learned anything yet, too early to tell, but I will reply later as to how things are wearing this winter.

Sounds good then! The SC wiz in my neighborhood insists that those bushings should be TIGHT! No worries about putzing about, that's how I've learned about all the (bad) things I've done.

It's in fact easy as pie to press new DU bushing in.... use the new one to dis-place the old one with a nut, bolt, washers, and a "reciever" like a socket for the old one to slide out into.

Definately invaluable to play around & learn the in's and out's of all these things on the Blur!