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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi all,

when i pick up my BLT2 from the back of the saddle, i get a bit of play and hear a bit of a clicking noise. this has happened once or twice before over the past 2 years of ownership, and snugging each of the linkage, shock and pivot bolts to the recommended torque would take care of it. i've just gone thru all the bolts using the torque wrench, and the play is still there.

i've tried:
-checked rear wheel hub (pulled from seatstay and pushed on rear wheel), no play
-checked by grasping the shock and rear wheel and pushing back and forth, no play
-when i grasp the top tube (where it curves upward to meet the seat tube), and push on the rear wheel, i get the play. the two linkage bolts call for 100 in/lbs and 110 in/lbs, and i've tightened them both to no avail...

has any one else had this issue? is it time to get a pro-kit and disasssemble everything and replace the bearings? other than using the included grease gun and tightening the bolts, i have not done any maintenance on the linkages or pivot.

thanks in advance
 

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dth656 said:
hi all,

when i pick up my BLT2 from the back of the saddle, i get a bit of play and hear a bit of a clicking noise. this has happened once or twice before over the past 2 years of ownership, and snugging each of the linkage, shock and pivot bolts to the recommended torque would take care of it. i've just gone thru all the bolts using the torque wrench, and the play is still there.

i've tried:
-checked rear wheel hub (pulled from seatstay and pushed on rear wheel), no play
-checked by grasping the shock and rear wheel and pushing back and forth, no play
-when i grasp the top tube (where it curves upward to meet the seat tube), and push on the rear wheel, i get the play. the two linkage bolts call for 100 in/lbs and 110 in/lbs, and i've tightened them both to no avail...

has any one else had this issue? is it time to get a pro-kit and disasssemble everything and replace the bearings? other than using the included grease gun and tightening the bolts, i have not done any maintenance on the linkages or pivot.

thanks in advance
Sounds like the DU bushings Bro... They do go fast... I bought the tool and some after market ones from the guy on mtbr... They seem to last alot longer than the factory Fox ones I had... :thumbsup:
 

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Yeah, lower shock bushings don't last, upper one will last a long time because it really doesn't move much. My lower bushing develops play every few months. Investing in the tool JohnnyG mentioned is the way to go. I would lock tight your axles too, not just the collet head hardware. They are prone to coming loose if you don't do this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for the help guys...if it is the DU bushings, should i be able to feel play when i grip the shock body and try to move it around (all directions, including up and down)? i wasn't able to feel the play when trying to move the shock, only when using seat or top tube. but, given its been two years, its probably a good time to replace the bushings and the seals in the RP23...
 

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dth656 said:
nevermind just saw the video in this thread:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=396481

i'm going to order the tool and replace these things asap
Just a couple of things to do... I would replace both at the same time, DU bushings... Also One thing, I would buy, if you don't already own one... A bike torque wrench... After cleaning your bike... Go through the linkage bolts top and bottom... I myself do not use lock tite blue on my axle bolts... By going by the S/C Factory torque specs... Nothing has loosen up on me to date... :thumbsup:
 

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Good advice, but I don't see a reason to replace extra parts unless really necessary. When mine developed play, I replaced the DU bushing. No more play. Therefore the mounting hardware is fine. Seems like the lower one gets replaced three times as often as the top one, so why replace it too? Seems wasteful, IMO.
 

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Or you could just head to your LBS. It's like a $10 job and you won't have to wait. Most of the time you can just replace the DU bushing rarely do you need to replace the reducers too. The rear DU will wear much faster on most bikes.
 

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As SweatyBiscuit said.... in my area, some shops even have a lower rate if you take the shock apart and bring it in. Something like $5 for the bushing and $10 for the install. This said, as this will be a frequent occurrence if you ride a lot, why not buy the tool and bushings of the fellow MTBR member. I bought those... very good quality and well priced.
 

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polymathic said:
Good advice, but I don't see a reason to replace extra parts unless really necessary. When mine developed play, I replaced the DU bushing. No more play. Therefore the mounting hardware is fine. Seems like the lower one gets replaced three times as often as the top one, so why replace it too? Seems wasteful, IMO.
When I changed the DU bushings on my 2010 S/C BlurLT2-A... The stock shock hard wear was a real *itch to come off... Got kinda of chewed up in the process... So I put new ones in...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks for the replies everyone. what size vise do you need to use w/ the bushing tool? 4"? 6"? i'm going to goto harbor freight and pick up a vise this week (hopefully for not too much money)
 

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same problem for me also, talked to the fox tech about it at MBO last year and he said it is due to the circular motion of the lower shock mount in the bushing, tool maker at work whipped me up a tool for taking out and replacing
 
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