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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone out there know how well these go together without too much hassle in the way of chainline, spacers and rubbing?
I don't have any of those ISCG mounts on the bb, so does this mean i go the BB mount version? (stupid question)



what is the difference between the ISCG and ISCG '05 versions?
 

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No, that's not phonetic
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It depends on what year of GXP you have. Sram was supposed to add more spindle length to accomodate e-type front derailleurs and such for 07, but prior to that you could not run anything sandwitched inside the bb cups on a 73mm bb-shell width frame. On a 68mm frame you can probably do just about anything you want. An iscg mounted guide would also likely not play nice on a 73mm bike, but possibly on a 68mm bike.

In other words- we need more info....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ah tscheezy.. the man with all the answers!

well the bike in question is a intense 5.5, which has a 73mm bb
the cranks, are 2006 or 2007.. i'm not sure? how do i tell? the black ones w/ the black outer and middle chain-rings..
i'm thinking there's no point in going the iscg one tho cause the bb doesn't have those iscg mounts..

also, i'm under the impression the stinger is a dual-ring chain tensioner, though ride-this.com has them listed as a triple chain-ring tensioner.. is this possible?
(if this is possible, i guess the outer ring must be 40t or smaller, as supposedly this is the largest chain-ring it will accomodate..)
 

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No, that's not phonetic
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The Stinger is a 2-ring guide. The only way to keep the 44t is to use a Heim-3 guide. The Heim is a good guide anyway, so not a bad way to go if you want all 3 rings. If the 5.5 lacks iscg mounts, then those types are moot anyway. The Stinger supposedly has about 2.5mm of plate thickness, which is a lot to sandwitch under the drive side bb cup. I doubt even the newest Truvativ cranks are going to let you do that with a 73mm bb shell.

On GXP cranks, the non-drive side crank arm gets smushed up against the non-drive side bearing. Any leftover space is between the drive side cup's outer surface and the crank's spider. Look down into that gap and try to eyeball how much spindle is showing. I bet hardly any. This is how much room you have to play: anything you sandwitch behind the drive side bb cup (like a 2.5mm Stinger) will decrease the gap you see by that width (Stinger = 2.5mm). Out of the two GXP cranks we have, only one of them had enough room to run a Heim arm (1mm) on a 73mm bb frame.

Basically, yer probably screwed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
posted by tscheezy
Look down into that gap and try to eyeball how much spindle is showing. It be hardly any. This is how much room you have to play
Absolutely zilch.. so yeah. as you put it:

Basically, yer probably screwed.
Damn.. new cranks too.. so i don't really want to go ahead and change the whole crankset if i don't have too.. i wonder if that heim-3 guide is worth a try..?
 

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No, that's not phonetic
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Most of the current Heims are 1.5mm thick. The old ones were 1mm. If you can put something between the bb cup and the bb shell that is 1.5mm thick (like find a bb cup spacer) and still install the cranks fully AND they don't bind, then the Heim will work. It worked on one of our Turners, but not the other even though both were 5-Spots with GXP cranks. It was just the sum total of variances in manufacturing tolerances allowing one to squeak in under the wire, and the other not.
 
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