Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
81 - 100 of 1010 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Hi and thanks for the feedback.

1. We´re working on this and it will be possible to install this small lever to the older versions. It won´t cost much. But no need to wait for this new version, if you are hoping, it wonßt cost more than the one now. Buying the upgrade kit won´t really make a difference to buying the new version. We´ll try to keep the upcharge as low as possible.
2. What exactly do you mean? Bluetooth? This is a few years ahead from now, but for sure, we are thinking about this, already.
3. We already offer swappable lowers. They only cost 40€ including wiper and installed bushing (including worldwide shipping and 19% VAT)
https://www.bikeyoke.de/de/revive-u...?language=de&switch_country=AF&products_id=45
The swap takes less than 5 Minutes and requires to release two circlips and unthread the bottom assembly. That´s all.
Check the video:
Unlike we mention in the video, you don´t even need to release the air. It´s super simple.
4. I don´t really understand what you mean.
5. We were thinking about this, but we think this is not really neccessary for a dropper post. Once it is set, then you won´t change it again, maybe occasionally. But everyone can make its own mark.
We did one post for Curtis Keene with a scale for insert, but we decided a clean look for series production is nicer:

Cheers
Sacki
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,713 Posts
2. Wireless dropper with minimal lag. KS is coming out with one. The electronics can be part of the seat clamp or collar if possible to have the shortest possible insert depth so it fits more bikes so more ppl buy it as well as making it easy to swap coincell batteries. But it has to have minimal lag. It can also use the battery from the di2 system. You can add a button to the di2 shifter for the dropper for a clean cockpit and the electronics can be housed inside that shifter.

4. Everyone wants a dropper that goes all the way down to the seat collar. It would be nice to buy a 170mm dropper and be able to modify the total drop and the length of the body of the dropper.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
235 Posts
Hi Sacki,

One thing I notice in this test is that they measured only 154mm actual travel. That deviation from the specified height of 160mm is much higher than with the others, which deviate 0-3mm. Is their measurement correct?

We were thinking about this, but we think this is not really neccessary for a dropper post. Once it is set, then you won´t change it again, maybe occasionally. But everyone can make its own mark.
I'd prefer the scale over the clean look. When fiddling around to find the perfect seat height a scale would be nice, like when trying different positions during a ride.

But that's only a minor nuisance with an otherwise great post! :thumbsup:

Cheers, Robert
 

·
damned rocks...
Joined
·
2,640 Posts
I got my Revive today and already installed it.
It took me around one hour, but most of the time was spent routing the cable internally on a frame with a non user-friendly internal routing process.
The installation of the seatpost was easily done by following the steps on the user manual, loved the engraved length gauge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Hi Sacki,

One thing I notice in this test is that they measured only 154mm actual travel. That deviation from the specified height of 160mm is much higher than with the others, which deviate 0-3mm. Is their measurement correct?

I'd prefer the scale over the clean look. When fiddling around to find the perfect seat height a scale would be nice, like when trying different positions during a ride.

But that's only a minor nuisance with an otherwise great post! :thumbsup:

Cheers, Robert
We have actually 158-159mm of effective travel. The rest is covered by a bottom out o-ring.
I can not see the 154mm, which you mentioned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,713 Posts
I bought a 160 revive thinking it will fit but had to return it because it didn't. I wasnt able to detect the very small narrowing of the seat tube at the bottom. Anyone know where to get a pvc or dowel thats the exact diameter of a dropper to dry fit prior to purchasing? Any tricks? Many mfg can spec max insert but many times you can fit more.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

·
damned rocks...
Joined
·
2,640 Posts
(...) Anyone know where to get a pvc or dowel thats the exact diameter of a dropper to dry fit prior to purchasing? Any tricks? Many mfg can spec max insert but many times you can fit more.
Why don't you use a normal seatpost and insert the max you can, take a pencil or some tape, mark it, take it off, and measure it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Did you try to rotate the bottom part (where the cable end is place inside). This part can be rotated and you can get some extra clearence, in case there is a pivot or something inside the seattube. However, it won´t help, if the whole ID of the tube narrows down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,713 Posts
My seatpost is only 125 and i only have 35mm exposed. I was thinking a 160mm will allow to slam it. Probably easier to ask the lbs to do it. I thought maybe something off the shelf already exists. Thx

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
235 Posts
We have actually 158-159mm of effective travel. The rest is covered by a bottom out o-ring. I can not see the 154mm, which you mentioned.
Thanks for the explanation! I was referring to the "Effektiver Hub" in the section "BikeYoke Revive: Abmessungen Teststütze". But now they already updated the value to 158mm, I guess you wrote to them? :)

Regards, Robert
 

·
damned rocks...
Joined
·
2,640 Posts
Hi Sacki,

I have installed my Revive on my carbon frame and used the friction compound from Finish Line, but I want to be able to swap it to my aluminum frame, however I have a doubt.
In the user manual it is written in bold letters "Do not use grease!",
But most of the anti-seize compounds are lubricants and some are explicitly grease based. I think I only saw two that don't state they are lubricant's or grease based, one is 'Shimano Anti Seize' and the other is 'Motorex Copper Compound Past'.
So, can I use any anti-seize, or should I get either the Shimano or the Motorex anti-seize, or if you can recommend other product, I will be grateful.

Thx.
 

·
Elitest thrill junkie
Joined
·
39,570 Posts
Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Hi Sacki,

I have installed my Revive on my carbon frame and used the friction compound from Finish Line, but I want to be able to swap it to my aluminum frame, however I have a doubt.
In the user manual it is written in bold letters "Do not use grease!",
But most of the anti-seize compounds are lubricants and some are explicitly grease based. I think I only saw two that don't state they are lubricant's or grease based, one is 'Shimano Anti Seize' and the other is 'Motorex Copper Compound Past'.
So, can I use any anti-seize, or should I get either the Shimano or the Motorex anti-seize, or if you can recommend other product, I will be grateful.

Thx.
Why can't you use friction compound with your aluminum frame? It's STILL a good idea to use friction compound if your seatpost is slipping in an aluminum frame and probably an ever BETTER idea to use it with a dropper post, because it's that much less you have to crank down on the binder, which when you crank down too much, creates a "pinch" and is the number one cause of seatposts not extending correctly.

I think in the manual they are just saying "don't use straight grease".

Anyway, the revive is still doing great, can't say the same about my transfer, seems to be getting worse. We'll see about that, but in the meantime the revive is still solid.
 

·
damned rocks...
Joined
·
2,640 Posts
I assumed:
Carbon = friction paste
Aluminum = anti-seize

It occurred to me that it is as you say, and I just shouldn't use "normal" grease, but I wanted to be sure, just to play on the safe side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
We just mention, not to use grease because it will reduce friction. If friction paste is based on grease it still dies it´s job: increase friction. So if it is a suitable friction paste for seatposts, then you may use it, no matter if it is grease based, or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
874 Posts
Still loving my Revive seatpost, but it feels like there may be a little bit of stiction developing. Is there a way to easily lube the top seal or do I have to do a service?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Actually, I don´t think your post needs a service, yet.
Most likely it is the small foam ring at the bottom of the seatpost. This foam ring is a dirt and dust protection, that covers 3 (2 for the very first versions) small holes in the bottom of the post. Those holes allow the post to breath during dropping and extending. If the foam is soaked with oil/water/grease, it may clog the holes and make the post feel sticky during extending and harder to compress, since it will create another air spring in the lower tube. The air can not get in and out fast enough.
That being said, too much grease during a service (and assembly) is not always the best thing to do.
If you remove the big circlip at the bottom of the post then you can slide up the lower tube and you will see the small foam ring. After cleaning this ring, your post should work as smoothly as it used to do.
Let me know, if it worked.
I´ll add this to the troubleshooting on the website.
 

·
Elitest thrill junkie
Joined
·
39,570 Posts
Discussion Starter · #99 ·
Well, bikeyoke 1, fox 0.
 
81 - 100 of 1010 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top