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Freshly Fujified
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally got a chance to weigh my bike this week (32 lbs) and was curious about the weight of other clyde's bikes. Sub-30 lbs seems to be a target weight for many people who are XC riders, sub-25 for those who race. Given my perception that we clydes tend to abuse our bikes more as a result of our weight, my logic would dictate that stronger (and more than likely heavier) parts would be used in a clyde-worthy build, thus the build will tend to be on the heavy side. When I weighed the bike, I was hoping itwas going to break that sub-30 lb barrier, but am quite happy with the bike as it stands. It performs well in all aspects, and I know I have some burly components that add to the weight.

So what have other clydesdales experienced in either buying or building a strong, clyde-worthy bike, and what, if anything have you done from the standpoint of keeping it at a respectable weight, yet strong enought to handle abuse associated with rider weight?

Bob
 

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MTB Rider
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34 pounds ...

My bike is 34 pounds and it's a hardtail. To be fair though I do run a Thudbuster LT.

Currently another Clyde is trying to tell me it's all about the weight of your bike. His is all of 32 pounds. But he's looking forward to building that sub 28 pound bike.

For Clydes, obsession with bike weight is ridiculous. I can sweat off 5 pounds during a single ride. If you're going to save weight, it's probably a lot easier (and cheaper) to shave it off your ass rather than your crankset.

When I'm down to 8% body fat, I'll start obsessing about the weight of my bike. Until then, I could care less if it is 40 pounds.
 

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willtsmith_nwi said:
My bike is 34 pounds and it's a hardtail. To be fair though I do run a Thudbuster LT.

Currently another Clyde is trying to tell me it's all about the weight of your bike. His is all of 32 pounds. But he's looking forward to building that sub 28 pound bike.

For Clydes, obsession with bike weight is ridiculous. I can sweat off 5 pounds during a single ride. If you're going to save weight, it's probably a lot easier (and cheaper) to shave it off your ass rather than your crankset.

When I'm down to 8% body fat, I'll start obsessing about the weight of my bike. Until then, I could care less if it is 40 pounds.
my trail bike is 40 pounds. I had it built at 36 pounds, but after a nasty crash due to a burped front tire, I decided my own saftey was more important then a few extra pounds.. I put DH tires on my bike. 3 extra pounds of tire. works great for me. but I ride some nasty trails.

I have a 31 pound XC bike but I know that it has a limit. on that bike I slow down and take the bypass on all the obsticals.
 

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I did a "me-and-the-bike" minus "just me" on my crappy bathroom scale and came out to roughly 34.5 lbs.

Stock 20" 2005 Kona Kikapu
- Slime in the tubes
- under seat bag
- bottle cage (no bottle or water)

I plan to switch to tubeless tires eventaully and also upgrade the fork. That should drop 3.0+ lbs pretty easily. I'll probably never try too hard to drop below 30.0, but if I do with planned upgrades and replacing broken parts....... great. Like stated above, I'm still trying to trim myself down. I'm 6'3" and still just a little heavier than I want to be.

Approx. 2 years ago: 255+
Currently (before Holidays): 218.5 :)
 

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Your bike is incorrigible
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same method

hallin222 said:
I did a "me-and-the-bike" minus "just me" on my crappy bathroom scale and came out to roughly 34.5 lbs.
Mine came out to 36 lbs, which was kind of surprising. I thought I had done a good job of picking "lighter" components. I've decided that the best place to lose weight is in the wheelset. If you want to lose a few pounds and have lighter rotational mass (most important), then you need to spend the mega money on the wheels.
 

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Klydesdale
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My Curtlo steel hardtail weighs 30 lb 1oz on a digital fishing scale. The frame itself is 5 lb 1oz. (This is for a frame with a 23" seattube, 26.1" eff. TT and a 7.5" headtube)

Components include:
Wheels: Mavic XM819 UST disc rims/Hope Bulb rear/Hope XC front/Hutchinson Pythons
XT M760 integrated BB crankset, derailleurs and shifters
SRAM cassette and chain
Avid BBD7 160mm Mechanical Disc brakes with SD-7 levers
Thomson 140mm 15 degree stem
Thomson 28.6 dia 400 mm seatpost
WTB Pure V Race saddle
Salsa stainless steel bottle cages (2)
ODI Lock on grips
Specialized 25mm riser handlebar

I'm not obsessed about the weight, I just use whatever works for me at a reasonable price.
 

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Because I am !
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I ride a 2005 Giant AC (All Condition). It weights in at 32#. That is light compared to the steel frame junk I was riding. I ride mostly aggressive XC and love it. Light enough for those hard climbs yet strong enough for the drops and jumps along the way...
 

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Call_me_Clyde said:
So what have other clydesdales experienced in either buying or building a strong, clyde-worthy bike, and what, if anything have you done from the standpoint of keeping it at a respectable weight, yet strong enought to handle abuse associated with rider weight?

Bob
Just got the chance to weigh my Jami 2.0 XLT - 33lbs 4ozs. (we don't talk about the Stinky-it simply is what it is, whatever that is)

That was off an airline baggage scale (fairly accurate). Kinda depressing to actually "know" now ~ was more fun to think it might be about 30, lol... I could lose a 1lb+ by replacing the 'zocchi Z1 FR ETA fork, but I spent alot of time tuning that thing in on my last frame & it works great, plus saving a lb or 2 on the bike really isn't going to make that much diff in my riding. Plus I had it - so save $600 for me - cha-ching!

Not a weightweenie, but I do think lighter is better - as long as it works. In 20 some yrs of MtBing I've never had alot of problems with parts other than wheelsets & BB/crankarms, but, I've never tried to use superlight XC parts either. To "fix" the 2 areas I've had issues with ~
~Wheelsets - I've found that XT hubs work fine for me (have used XTR's as well with no issues in the past other than $) 36holes are the only way to go IMO & are bulletproof for my, "AM" ride most anything within reason, "XC" bike. Strong rims, but not DH rims. My XLT rides on Mavic EX721's which have been great rims - very strong, not too heavy.
~BB/crank - A few years ago I got disgusted with buying 2-3 BB's a year & "invested" in a Profile Racing crankset (now have 'em on both bikes). Truely in the top 5 best things I've ever bought! I'm a believer in the "leg propotional long-arm crank" theory & Profile offers 190's off the shelf (& will make something else if you ask). The 4 bearing BB has proven very durable once you set it right (you must face/shim the shell to exactly 68/73mm. Do that & the bearings last "forever", bind them with >0.5mm wrong spacing & you won't get 200mi out of them). The Ti spindle saves a 1/4lb & with it, the weight of the whole set is within grams (ok, an oz +/-) of the "new" XT hollowtech crankset/BB, but with "clydeproof", long chromoly crankarms. I was concerned about using the Ti spindle since Profile sells it with no warrenty, but it's proven itself as a non-issue in over 4yrs of riding. (since learned the reason they don't warrent the Ti spindle isn't a "bending" issue, rather a large portion of their customer base (kids - BMX) can't read or follow instructions & were not using any anti-sieze on the Ti threads or splines. Hence they were cold-welding the chromoly arms or arm retaining bolts to the Ti spindle, then claiming it was a "warrenty issue", when it was really their own anally inept mechanic skills.)

Other than that, it's weight aware, not weight-weenie. ie - gripshifts over triggers = an oz+, 25.4 bar/stem saves gms over the new 31.8's, etc
 

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Freshly Fujified
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Keep it coming

Good info folks, thanks for the replies. Looks like a lot of similar thoughts regarding the builds and their weights. I'm by no means a weight weenie, but certainly do want to keep the bike at a weight that balances the need for the sturdier parts with a build that won't be a pig on climbs. I am also very cost conscious, so the old adage of "light, strong, or cheap...pick two" comes into play for me. I choose strong and cheap before light.

Keep the replies coming.
 

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damn!!!!!!, those are some heavy...

@ss bikes you guys are riding. i have several bikes, all steel and none weighs more than 26 lbs. bomber forks, sram 9.0sl, avid v's, and mavic x618's or sun 0 degree xc wheels are on all of my bikes. i ride woods singletrack and xc, no jumps or big drops. plenty of roots and rocks and some logs thrown in. my bikes take it all in stride. im no weight weenie either, just use what i like (marz, sram, avid, mavic, sun) and let the chips fall where they may.
 

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Bike to the Bone...
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Again, same bathroom scale method.

Titus Moto Lite weighted around 32 lbs. I think it is very light and behaves pretty nice on the trails. I'm 5'11", and 220 lbs + equipment.

I also think that 2 or 4 lbs total won't feel really different. The bike could be lighter, but I don't feel it would be better for me.
 

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turner XCE...

My Turner weighs in at just under 30 lbs in a size XL (21"). Wheels are usually one of the first things to get walloped. To save weight I am running King ISO disc hubs with Mavic 321 disc rims with BRASS NIPPLES. They have been bullet proof for over two years now with only occasional truing of the rear. Other than the wheels, the only light weight parts are Easton carbon riser bars, Hope mini brakes and a ti-rail Fizik saddle.
 

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04 Devinci Guzzler( Canadian version)

the bike from the shop was 34#5oz. I added Panaracer Cinder tires instead of the 2.3 WTB Weirwolfs that came with it and gained some grams but also switched to Time ATAC XS carbon pedals and lost about as many as I gained over the 520spd pedals so somewhere between 34 and 35#s for my 04 Devinci Guzzler. the thing does not climb like a +30# bike though. the Cinders are MUCH tougher in the rocks gardens of Western Va. and also corner better for us non-heavy leaners. they also are bombproof for me in all conditions. Ive got over 1500 miles on them,all offroad, also and they are not quite 1/2 worn.I reckon that shaves a few rolling grams. I got a second set and think they will dry rot before I need them LOL. the XS pedals took a hell of a beating on Massenutten mountain in July( as well as the rest of the bike) and still run like new except for the paint( just like the rest of the bike)
if ever in the Luray Va. area do the Duncan Hollow ride that is posted on the trails reviews here. awesome .
 

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willtsmith_nwi said:
For Clydes, obsession with bike weight is ridiculous. I can sweat off 5 pounds during a single ride. If you're going to save weight, it's probably a lot easier (and cheaper) to shave it off your ass rather than your crankset.
LOL! Very, very true!

I've been complaining about my bike weight & how it feels like a pig, but in reality it's the rider (me) who needs to lighten up first. Right now my Haro X2 is stock (I think the stock weight is about 35~36 lbs) Yes it is tough on climbs, but it has handled it's 220+ lb rider just fine & has proven to be plenty strong. After i drop a few #'s I'll worry about taken some off the bike.
 

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Wow

Right now I run a 01 Bianchi Tycoon XL aluminum frame. I was a bit skeptical about this frame being such a light racing frame. After running the hell out of this thing with a 120mm fork that was to long. It has proved its strength by eating up 2' drops and good size jumps. I am not a freerider but that frame with a 120mm fork felt like my old chameleon. With the Marathon 120S fork it weigthed in at 25.4 lb. Now I run a White Bros. XC.8 which is the right size for my XC frame and it tips in at just under 24 lb.
The frame is a large (19in.) All XT, Thomson stem and post, Titec Ti bar, and some old Rolf Dolomite wheels which I have run for a long time without any problems. Cheapo avid V's A specialized Body geometry MG railed seat and Bontanger RE-1 pedals. Nothing to exotic except mabee a Ti bar. But totally trouble free under my 6' 205lb. frame
 

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31#, 21" Ventana El Cap. Might be <30# with my new wheelset.

I go 260+. All parts clyde approved. No weight wanker bits. DH tires seem like an awfully punitive solution unless you're strictly DH. How about wider rims and/or higher PSI? Adding 3# of rotational weight is a beeyatch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Soupboy said:
31#, 21" Ventana El Cap. Might be <30# with my new wheelset.

I go 260+. All parts clyde approved. No weight wanker bits. DH tires seem like an awfully punitive solution unless you're strictly DH. How about wider rims and/or higher PSI? Adding 3# of rotational weight is a beeyatch.
Nice weight for a 29er. Any idea what the frame alone weighs?
 

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err, 27.5+
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Could have sworn this thread already exists here. But here it is;)

Me: 225lb + gear
Road bike: 26lb, 61cm Steel Rock Lobster
Freeride rig: 37lb, XL Bullit
XC trail hardtail: 31lb, XL Specialized
 
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