Big ring to bash guard /links?

links

Don't know if this is "correct" or not, but I just used the normal method - chain around largest sprocket and biggest front chainring, bypass the rear mech, and add two links. That made the chain tight but not overly so in the big / big combo. In fact I think I may even have taken another link out after a few rides - if you have a SRAM chain it's nice and easy with the powerlink to experiment.

PS - you've gone with the same dual ring ratios as me. Works well with the 34t chainring, I do spin out on descents, but it's ok - wouldn't want to go much lower though so I'm glad I dropped the 32t...

I had 44/32/20 setup, now bash/32/20. 12-27 cassette in the rear. Removed two links and the chain is just barely long enough to run middle(32)/granny(27) combo.

_MK

I have had most luck by following the mfr's chain length instructions AND treating the middle ring as the new big ring. for SRAM chains, which I use exclusively, this means middle ring up front, big cog on cassette, plus 2 links. some frame mfrs will have additional chain length suggestions based on how much chain "growth" the frame will have as it goes through its travel.

movingmountain said:

Decided to take off my big chain ring on my Burner and put on a bash gaurd. How many links would you take out of the chain? Two? I figured I would ask here before taking out links.(34/22-11-34)

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I did the same as Hollywood and Gonzo. Don't forget to set the front derailler high limit so that it you can't shift the chain over the bash ring. Also, leave the derailler clamped in the exact same position that you had it in when you were running 3 rings. Do not re-adjust the clamp height.

I find that by shortening the chain a little more, you get less chainlash, and reduces the chances of throwing the chain, jamming the chain, and a quieter overall drivetrain.

In the big cog/big ring combination, I like to remove links until the chain is not perpendicular to the ground (ie, the lower derailleur pulley wheel is closer to the crank than the upper pulley wheel.

Burpee said:

I find that by shortening the chain a little more, you get less chainlash, and reduces the chances of throwing the chain, jamming the chain, and a quieter overall drivetrain.

In the big cog/big ring combination, I like to remove links until the chain is not perpendicular to the ground (ie, the lower derailleur pulley wheel is closer to the crank than the upper pulley wheel.

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Ya gots to be careful about making the chain too short. If you end up in the big / big combo and the suspension cycles a lot, you damage the derailler. There is chain growth. Not a lot, but it's there.