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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hiii,

I have recenty got a good deal for a old bike from 2008 as i wanted to upgrade some of the parts required. Though i am not sure of the size as i have measured but not entierly sure.

1- Fork as i wanted to upgrade to newer air forks straight tube as the new ones comes at 28.6 diameter steerer tube. I am not sure if it will fit?
2.- Disc Brakes as i wanted a better stopping power and through wet conditions. I could add a bracket on the rear but is it great to use them eg over time do they get loose?
3- Bottom Bracket Square tapered. I am really not sure of the size as it says 6cm and the new bb standard is around 6.8cm so will it fit as i have got the square tapered metal crankset.
4- 7 speed freewheel as currently is 6 wheel, i have bought a 7 speed index shifter to go with the 7 speed freewheel but it can fit between the rear part? or source a new axel?

Here are the photos attached for your reference.

Light Automotive tire Tire Automotive design Automotive lighting
Tire Wheel Bicycle tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle
Bicycle Tire Wheel Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Crankset
Tire Wheel Bicycle Bicycle wheel Bicycle frame
Bicycle Tire Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Wheel Bicycle wheel rim


Thank you!!!
 

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since 4/10/2009
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37,064 Posts
You have a standard department store bike-shaped object that's made for casual riding. It's not an actual mountain bike, even though it might look like one.

The things you want to change are going to create a massive cascade of other required parts changes. You'd basically wind up changing the whole bike, since so little of the original is going to work.
 

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since 4/10/2009
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37,064 Posts
though i can give a try and eventually the new parts will go for the next bike.
no, this sort of thing won't work that way. Let's start with the fork, since that's the first one on your list.

Straight steerer 26er forks are RARE. You MIGHT find one with rim brake posts. But you might not.

This one exists.

Manitou Markhor 26" Fork | Jenson USA

Disc brake only. THREADLESS steerer. You're going to need a new headset, a new stem, and a new front brake caliper before you can even install this fork. Maybe a new handlebar. You could try to track down a cable actuated brake caliper, but you'll probably still need to replace your levers for it to feel anywhere remotely good. I'll bet a big part of why your brakes are unsatisfactory is because of crappy levers.

You mention a disc brake in the rear. You don't have disc-compatible wheels. You'll need new wheels. DEFNITELY up front, since the fork doesn't have a provision for rim brakes at all. But wait, the rear is complicated by your dropouts. Disc brakes rely upon precise placement of the wheel relative to the caliper. Your rear dropouts don't allow that. You can't use a disc brake on the rear of your bike, full stop. Also, the sort adapter you reference isn't really made anymore. You'd have to find an old one made a couple decades ago. They transfer the braking force from the caliper to the vee brake post and the rack mounts, usually. The rack mounts on your frame are weak AF. This doesn't bode well for you. But, your dropouts don't permit a rear disc brake. So that's out. Your only option for better braking performance in the rear is to get better rim brakes.

As for the bottom bracket, I think you'll have to remove it to get additional details about the size of any replacement that you need. It's not uncommon for these bikes to use odd sizes for these because of whatever is cheap. This one is a good luck moment. If this bike requires a special size that you can't find anywhere - that'll be fun. FWIW, the proper width measurement is the FRAME only, not including any parts of the bottom bracket. I can't tell what you actually measured with your ms paint notes.

Hub spacing is determined by the frame. You can't just throw a longer axle on the hub and expect it to work right and line up right. This is another case where it's simply not possible to do what you want, realistically. Being a cheap bike, you're more than welcome to try to widen the rear spacing of the frame to fit a wider rear hub that'll fit your 7spd freewheel. But honestly, freewheel hubs are shyte for actual off-road riding. The axles are poorly supported by the bearings, and they have a tendency to break axles. If you're going to get a new wheel with wider spacing, you might as well get a freehub wheel that uses a cassette as it'll be more durable. But there's a good chance that you'll destroy the frame trying to cold set the rear end wider in the process. So frankly, it's not worth the expense and effort.

The fork alone probably costs more than twice what you spent on that whole bike, I'd bet. It's really not worth that. The rest of the changes REALLY aren't worth it. Keep the bike and ride it for what it is, or get rid of it and look for a real mountain bike.
 

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To add to pile on ,you would by money ahead by selling that blo (bike like object) and buying something that was actually made for mountain biking. If it's still there you could a sticker stating not intended for off road use, or something along those lines.
 

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Oh no! This bike is just not worth your time/money. I would try and sell this off to someone else and get your money back. You should look at a used hardtail bike that you can use without any add-ons. Your budget should realistically be between $500-700 for a used bike. You will save money in the long run, and be safer/have more fun.
 
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