Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner

Best way to fix chain stay 6061

1690 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Jayem
I bought some brazing rod, and called around to some motorcycle shops to see about welding but I since learned from a frame builder that it needs heat treatment after its welded.
The crack is at the BB on a bso.

I bought some 6061, and figured I'd beef it up but I bought 1/4" and thinking I need 1/8" and double it up. Plan is to take off the paint, clean, place 1/8" over the bb and overhang onto the chain stays do the top and bottom, then do each side.

I figure its going to be easier to braze 1/8" then 1/4" 6061 as 1/4" will take a ton of heat, put flame on alum longer then frame and go to it.
Of course I will practice on off-cuts 1/8" to get a feel for it.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Y u no TIG?
I am calling around to get the job done.
All I have is an old Lincoln arc welder. Its heavy and selling it, no 220 other then washer dryer room next to garage door.
So TIG welding theres no post-heat treatment?


Y u no TIG?
There still is. But tig is easier to control heat while welding.
Ultimate Tensile Strength of T6 hardened 6061 is almost 3x that of the annealed (6061-O) condition of 6061 which is what you will produce if you weld your frame.
While getting a TIG weld repair made to the frame is fairly strait forward, performing the heat treatment to then return it from annealed condition to T6 hardness with the necessary jigging to keep frame in alignment is usually considered prohibitively expensive to save a single frame, cost to do so would likely exceed value of the frame unless you have access to the industrial equipment needed to heat treat batches of frames as manufactureres do. Sadly, an 6061-T6 frame is essentially financially totaled once it cracks.
Ultimate Tensile Strength of T6 hardened 6061 is almost 3x that of the annealed (6061-O) condition of 6061 which is what you will produce if you weld your frame.
While getting a TIG weld repair made to the frame is fairly strait forward, performing the heat treatment to then return it from annealed condition to T6 hardness with the necessary jigging to keep frame in alignment is usually considered prohibitively expensive to save a single frame, cost to do so would likely exceed value of the frame unless you have access to the industrial equipment needed to heat treat batches of frames as manufactureres do. Sadly, an 6061-T6 frame is essentially financially totaled once it cracks.
Not only that but if it was a weld that cracked or at a weld that's usually a good indicator that the bike is at the end of its life. I've had cracks professionally repaired from the highest skilled people in the land (SAPA extrusions) only to have cracks show up elsewhere in short order. The life of aluminum is finite.

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
Not only that but if it was a weld that cracked or at a weld that's usually a good indicator that the bike is at the end of its life. I've had cracks professionally repaired from the highest skilled people in the land (SAPA extrusions) only to have cracks show up elsewhere in short order. The life of aluminum is finite.

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
I'd chock that up to shitty design though, instead of reaching the end of the fatigue life of the frame. Realistically you shouldn't approach the number of cycles for failure in a LONG time...but also realistically, there are probably areas of the frame that are under-designed or flawed in production, so they probably don't meet the intended specs for load limit, so normal riding causes the weakest link to fail, essentially a localized or micro-scale overload, vs number of cycles. It could obviously be a lot more complex than that, but unless we are talking 20 years old, I would be thinking overloads on an under-designed or under-manufactured frame.
I'd chock that up to shitty design though, instead of reaching the end of the fatigue life of the frame. Realistically you shouldn't approach the number of cycles for failure in a LONG time...but also realistically, there are probably areas of the frame that are under-designed or flawed in production, so they probably don't meet the intended specs for load limit, so normal riding causes the weakest link to fail, essentially a localized or micro-scale overload, vs number of cycles. It could obviously be a lot more complex than that, but unless we are talking 20 years old, I would be thinking overloads on an under-designed or under-manufactured frame.
A Turner 6-pack and Highline respectively. Certainly no expert on the engineering that goes into bike design, but they were pretty robust designs of their day.

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
A Turner 6-pack and Highline respectively. Certainly no expert on the engineering that goes into bike design, but they were pretty robust designs of their day.

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
I broke the 6-pack due to running too long of a seatpost, my fault there. I didn't break the hiline, but there was an issue with the early model chainstays I believe. Chainstays, yokes and the dropout areas, have always been high stress and challenging for manufacturers to get right. Other than just pushing the bike too far (overloads), it would have to be production flaws or design flaws if cracks started showing up elsewhere. I did beat the hell out of that 6-pack and it's rear end, which stayed with me after I got a new front triangle. Never any other trouble from it. The Hiline I didn't have as long, but it seemed to be a very stout ride...a little too stout actually, in that it was just more than I ever really needed.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top