[toyota kawasaki]

im prob gonna be picking up a norco wolverine, id really like a bigfoot but thats really out of my range

anyways, its not too greta and I was wondering what would be a wise first upgrade?

perhaps a rear disc brake? or a new fork since it comes with a "SR XC-60 100 mm", which is probably very shitty. or something like drivetrain mods? such as new derailers/shifters since it comes with ex fire shifters and alivio/acera derailers?

or should I just go with what breaks first? :dunno:

Ill have more money eventually, its just I want to start riding now and dont wanna have to wait a couple months too

heres the page http://norco.com/05/2005bikes/bikes/det_wolverine.htm

 

[mr plow]

I was wondering what would be a wise first upgrade?

Fork first, then brake, then drivetrain, Thats what i would do.

 

[LyNx]

Well you can ride it "as is" and upgrade as stuff breaks, HOWEVER I would definitely look into replacing that fork with a decent fork if you're even considering any serious riding on that bike - easiest thing to get/almost get you killed on a cheap bike, ENDO city. If you're just commuting you'll be fine otherwise change that fork ASAP.

 

[bike_freak]

I agree on the fork..

But if you want to upgrade your rear brake. It looks like you may need a new rear hub aswell..

When the time comes, pick yourself up a new disk wheelset. They can be had for cheap these days(a good one, with XT disk hubs can be had for 200USD).

 

[toyota kawasaki]

what do u mean by "endo city" from a cheap fork?

 

[Warp]

what do u mean by "endo city" from a cheap fork?

Cheap forks are usually short travel and low Axle to crown... a nice combination to promote "Endos" (going over the bars - From End-Over-End, supposedly).

 

[Prexus2005]

fork upgrade

I'm also considering upgrading the SunTour 75mm fork that came with my 04 Giant Yukon. It's starting to be very "sticky" and I'm hearing a loud "Clang!" on jumps when it tops out (on full extension vs bottoming out on impact).

I'm wondering if the SunTour fork might be serviceble... so I might play with it and see.. =p if i break it/unable to put it back together, then I'll get a new fork. =)

So... I also need a few recommendations on forks. I've heard people saying it's not a good idea to install a bigger travel fork then the 75mm that came with the bike as it change the geometry of the bike... I want something in the 100-130mm range but I guess I could live with another 80mm since I ride mainly XC without many jumps... but would like the ability to hit something bigger as I gain experience/skill.

With that said, which fork would be the best value between $200-400?

Thanks!

Phil.

 

[Warp]

I'm also considering upgrading the SunTour 75mm fork that came with my 04 Giant Yukon. It's starting to be very "sticky" and I'm hearing a loud "Clang!" on jumps when it tops out (on full extension vs bottoming out on impact).

I'm wondering if the SunTour fork might be serviceble... so I might play with it and see.. =p if i break it/unable to put it back together, then I'll get a new fork. =)

So... I also need a few recommendations on forks. I've heard people saying it's not a good idea to install a bigger travel fork then the 75mm that came with the bike as it change the geometry of the bike... I want something in the 100-130mm range but I guess I could live with another 80mm since I ride mainly XC without many jumps... but would like the ability to hit something bigger as I gain experience/skill.

With that said, which fork would be the best value between $200-400?

Thanks!

Phil.

I have a Suntour XCP 75 on my Warp now. I thought the Manitou Axel was crappy until I rode this fork. Even the primitive Fluid Flow Damping from Manitou is thousands times better that this boat achor in a bike fork disguise.

It's all coil/elastomer and I don't have words to tell you how bad is it, comparing it against a Manitou SX from '01 and a Manitou Axel from '03.

Nowadays the best bang-for-the-buck is the '04 Zoke Marathon S 120 which is running from jenson, speedgoat and ebay from 275. All coil, tunable, ETA.

There are some Fox Vanilla 125 R at some 300 somewhere on ebay too. Those can be set at 100 mm for your frame.

For under 400 you can get a RS Reba which is maybe the best fork out there for under 400. It's 85-115mm adjustable and has all the bells and whistles.

Forget the Suntour. There's nothing you can do to make it a good fork. I opened it up and I know what I'm telling you.

BTW... stay on the 100mm range if possible. Above that your frame might get busted at the headtube (remote possiblity given the Giants manufacturing around that zone) or your geometry should be more similar to a Schwinn Stingray than to a MTB.

 

[Guital2]

Tell us your max budget and we will find you a better deal.

 

[toyota kawasaki]

thread highhhhhhjack

anyway since you are saying I should go with fork mod first, what coudl you reccomend? Its a 500$ bik so I dont wanna spend more than the entire bvike on its fork.

 

[Warp]

thread highhhhhhjack

anyway since you are saying I should go with fork mod first, what coudl you reccomend? Its a 500$ bik so I dont wanna spend more than the entire bvike on its fork.

Manitou Black. You can find some sweet deals in the order of 150-200 bucks.

Some other viable (but not nearly as good) options are the 180'ish Zoke EXR (same thing as the MX Comp but no adjustments - only tuning thru oil weights and air preload) and the Manitou Axel Super (get the 100mm model, the 120 should be wimpy as the 100 was already a bit flexy) in the same price range.

 

[Guital2]

What kind of riding, Xc,Dh, both...etc.

 

[Tracerboy]

Idea!

It doesn't sound like you have purchased the bike yet. Why don't you take the money you were going to spend in upgrades and add it to the price of bike and get a nicer all around bike. At the price range you are shopping in a couple of hundred more dollars on a factory speced bike gets you alot more than you would in the aftermarket. I would look at some of the big name brand bikes. At that price range they can give you al lot for your money. Good luck whatever you decide.

 

[bike_freak]

It doesn't sound like you have purchased the bike yet. Why don't you take the money you were going to spend in upgrades and add it to the price of bike and get a nicer all around bike. At the price range you are shopping in a couple of hundred more dollars on a factory speced bike gets you alot more than you would in the aftermarket. I would look at some of the big name brand bikes. At that price range they can give you al lot for your money. Good luck whatever you decide.

Agreed.

You will be much happier

 

[LyNx]

what do u mean by "endo city" from a cheap fork?

What I mean is... if you have a cheapo fork when you go riding through say a nice small rut/hole/river the fork will not just roll through like a better fork, it will most likely ( as happened w/ my el cheapo fork on my first bike) it will compress and then dead stop and you will going over the bars Maybe not over the bars if you're lucky but chances are you'll smash your knee or other parts on the stem - not a very nice feeling

OK so you said it's a $500 bike and you're looking to spend maybe $200-$300 on a good fork, so now you have a total of maybe $700-$800 to spend on your new bike - makes for choosing a much better bike and you'll get more as said if it comes with the bike.

Are you dead set on a Norco or just on a good hardtail in that price range, or does it need to be a hardtail could you save a bit more alook full suspension? Might I suggest this chap which has gotten many favourable reviews from their owners..................

The Gary Fisher Tassajara, this ones on Jenson only available at the store for $599. You don't get disc brakes (but it does have disc ready HUBS), but the other components surely make up for it - LX, Deore much better than the Alivio and worse on the Norco.
link to page
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/BI603A00-Gary+Fisher+Tassajara+Bike+05.aspx
You could get a decent set of disc brakes for around $150-250 depending on your tastes.

 

[Warp]

The Gary Fisher Tassajara, this ones on Jenson only available at the store for $599. You don't get disc brakes (but it does have disc ready HUBS), but the other components surely make up for it - LX, Deore much better than the Alivio and worse on the Norco.
link to page
You could get a decent set of disc brakes for around $150-250 depending on your tastes.

Agreed... and that GF has a nice Axel. Not a bad fork to start with. It really works but don't expect the performance of the more pricey brothers... it's just good for the money, no more.

 

[toyota kawasaki]

It doesn't sound like you have purchased the bike yet. Why don't you take the money you were going to spend in upgrades and add it to the price of bike and get a nicer all around bike. At the price range you are shopping in a couple of hundred more dollars on a factory speced bike gets you alot more than you would in the aftermarket. I would look at some of the big name brand bikes. At that price range they can give you al lot for your money. Good luck whatever you decide.

well I wanna ride as soon as I can.. and saving for a 600$ bike is easier than saving for say a 1000$ bike. of course in a month or so after I get the bike Ill have more money, but id rather get a bike sooner and upgrade later. Im not gonna be destroying the bike as soon as I get it anyways, I hpoe

 

[Warp]

well I wanna ride as soon as I can.. and saving for a 600$ bike is easier than saving for say a 1000$ bike. of course in a month or so after I get the bike Ill have more money, but id rather get a bike sooner and upgrade later. Im not gonna be destroying the bike as soon as I get it anyways, I hpoe

First... I totally understand you. I just had a baby and I'm always about to move. I'm always short on money and if I would have to wait for gettting the bike that I like, that bike would be discontinued by the time I would have the money.

I bought a bike and while it's cheap I'm about to double its value on upgrades... but there's a difference my friend... I have 15 years of riding and pretty much know what I'm after.

My riding will not leap in quality or quantity any time soon. Yours will. You'll soon be lusting after a better bike for your newly acquired skills. You're about to trash equipment if it's not a nice quality as we all did when we started. If your equipment is not a regular quality (anything under Deore level), you're gonna be tacoing wheels, breaking derrailleurs, getting chain sucks, broken forks, etc.

You can do either of these two things.

1.- Save for a better bike - This will keep you away from the trails for a time, but you're not going to need a better bike in say, 6-8 months. This also ensure you less visits to your LBS for tuning.

2.- Get a cheap bike and start riding NOW - This will allow you to hone your skills as a both rider and wrench (believe me, the cheapest and the more expensive bikes require lots of maintenance and wrench time). But you'll need a better bike soon once you decide which is your riding style (from a racer-boy to the nastiest dropper).

It's up to you.... but if I were you, I'd save some more and get something better. Anyway, you're not riding now.

For example, for 600 and you can get very nice entry level hardtails. 800 bucks, you can find a Hardtail with sweet components or an entry level Full Suspension (not recommendable). 1000 bucks nowadays get you a mid-to-high level Hardtail or a decent trailbike.

Above that is your wallet and your likes what make a good/bad bike.

 

[tlg]

well I wanna ride as soon as I can.. and saving for a 600$ bike is easier than saving for say a 1000$ bike. of course in a month or so after I get the bike Ill have more money, but id rather get a bike sooner and upgrade later. Im not gonna be destroying the bike as soon as I get it anyways, I hpoe

Get a loan if you know your gonna have the money in a few months but want to ride now. Even if it's on credit cards. The interest will be less than what you're gonna loose by upgrading parts.

 

[toyota kawasaki]

im not old enough for loans yet cant even get a credit card

my age is also one reason why money is a problem