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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everybody!
I currently ride a Cannondale 29er hardtail. Thinking about adding a fat bike just because I think it would be fun. Like so many other people, I don't want to spend a lot, and I want to get as much for my $$$ as I can.
Seems like every time I start researching, my budget creeps up. I don't want to spend more than I need to, but I also don't want something that's disposable. If I decide a fatty isn't for me, I would probably want to be able to sell what I bought and recoup as much as possible.

Anyway, enough rambling; I'll get to the point of this post.

I'm turning 54 next month. I'm not a big, powerful guy - I'm 5' 10", about 175lbs. So I'm thinking I probably want to get something that's not real heavy. I know that being tubeless can save quite a bit, so what's roughly the price point to get something tubeless from the factory?

I'm currently looking at bikes around the $500-$600 mark, does it make sense to go with tubes for now and upgrade later? To be honest, I'm not a huge fan of that idea.
 

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Is there anyway you can rent a Fat Bike, or borrow from a friend to see if you like it first?

Most "cheap" Fat bikes don't come with Tubeless compatible Tires or Wheels,
...and unless you get extremely lucky, it will have crap components, all steel construction and weight about 45+ pounds :skep:

I made the mistake of not spending enough for my first fatty :madman:
Within a couple weeks I found myself shopping for something in the $1200 range.
...and came home with a like new Demo 2018 Trek Farley 7 (marked down from $3100 to $1900) :eekster:

Yes it was more bike than I thought I wanted, and $700 more than I wanted to spend...but SO Worth it!
Even with the Mastodon fork, Larger Frame, and 27.5 x 4.5 Gnarhwals ...it came in 11 Pounds lighter than my $400 Schwinn Turd.
11 Speed SRAM is a dream, and Hydraulic brakes....what's not to Love about That! (I also added dropper post)

Pic's from last September when I first brought it home...





I just swapped out the Gnarwhals (that I studded for Winter) for a lighter set of Barbegazi's
Tubeless conversion on the MuleFut wheels was very easy, and dropped another 3 pounds total.

For what it's worth, I'm about the same age/size as you.
I also have a Marin Hardtail 26 MTB....that I may never ride again now that I'm use to the cushy ride.
 

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I'm currently looking at bikes around the $500-$600 mark, does it make sense to go with tubes for now and upgrade later? To be honest, I'm not a huge fan of that idea.
You're throwing money away at that price point.

Find a friend that'll let you borrow their's for a day. See if you like it. If so, spend more.
 

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In my opinion, the best wheel for tubeless that comes on a complete fat bike is either the Surly My Other Brother Darryl or the Bontrager Jackelope.
The MOBD comes on Surly Wednesdays and Ice Cream Trucks. I think the Wednesday is like 1500 bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies!
I live in the boonies, and I don't know anyone who has a fatty, so borrowing one isn't an option.
A $1500 bike just isn't in the cards right now.
 

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Hybrid Leftys aren't real
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Anything under $1000 real world, actual retail pricing (as opposed to the ridiculous claimed MSRP on some consumer direct sites) will likely not have the rims you seek.

Buy used if you're on a budget. Generally accepted pricing is that a bike in decent used shape is worth 50% less than purchase price. A decent used *real* bike, will be so much more pleasant to work on too when needed.

I'd agree with NYrr496, a Surly Wednesday will be dead simple tubeless set up with it's MOBD's, and not cut the corners that actually matter, like all the consumer direct garbage does.

Buying a cheap one will quickly result (as others have indicated) in the realization that, "crap, this thing needs X, and Y, and Z, in order for me to find it fun to ride, and suddenly, you're bolting $300 worth of stuff onto a frame hung with parts that aren't worth a bucket of spit to begin with...
 

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Definitely look for a used fatbike. Plenty of them out there with not much use. You should be able to pick up a decent name brand bike for under $1000, Trek, Specialized, or Salsa.
 

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I don't like to advertise for consumer-direct bike sales, but I replaced my fatbike (thru-axles, 1x12, MuleFuts, rigid fork, Minion tires) for under $1000. I would not go any lower (and that bike still needed some special attention during the build - which I was expecting). But even tubeless it will be ~32-33#. As you go cheaper, the weight goes up, tubeless compatibility goes out the window, frames get skinny, tires get skinny, gearing options go away, brakes.... yikes...
Around here the used market is crazy. People are asking near new prices for used fatbikes. I almost did it, but .....nah.

-F
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Definitely look for a used fatbike. Plenty of them out there with not much use. You should be able to pick up a decent name brand bike for under $1000, Trek, Specialized, or Salsa.
I'm in rural central Nebraska, so the added travel or shipping cost pretty much makes getting a used one unreasonable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I don't like to advertise for consumer-direct bike sales, but I replaced my fatbike (thru-axles, 1x12, MuleFuts, rigid fork, Minion tires) for under $1000. I would not go any lower (and that bike still needed some special attention during the build - which I was expecting). But even tubeless it will be ~32-33#. As you go cheaper, the weight goes up, tubeless compatibility goes out the window, frames get skinny, tires get skinny, gearing options go away, brakes.... yikes...
Around here the used market is crazy. People are asking near new prices for used fatbikes. I almost did it, but .....nah.

-F
I assume you're talking about BD?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Leaning toward the Framed Minnesota LTD or the Motobecane Sturgis Eagle NX12. They seem to have pretty similar specs (unknown weight on the MB). MB brakes rotors slightly bigger.
 

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sarge

a cheap bike is better than no bike. Buy the 500 one, figure out what is important, get rid of the $500 one and get a better one down the road. atleast you will know if you like it or not.

I know everyone is broke and 500 is a lot, but it is not really much money on a bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
sarge

a cheap bike is better than no bike. Buy the 500 one, figure out what is important, get rid of the $500 one and get a better one down the road. atleast you will know if you like it or not.

I know everyone is broke and 500 is a lot, but it is not really much money on a bike.
I considered that, but the used market around here is virtually nonexistent. The reason I can't find one used is the same reason I don't want to have to try to sell one - no market.
 

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Could you afford to piece one together?

RSD is selling their gen 3 alloy frames for 279 delivered. Then get some Alex Blizzerk rims which offer excellent tubeless and some Bike Hub Store hubs and you have the beginnings of an excellent bike. This works great if you can build your own wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
After researching damn near everything in the $1000-2000 price range, the Framed Minnesota LTD is the current front-runner. For what it costs, it seems to have the best combination of features and reputation.
Would I love to have a new Surly ICT? Hell yeah I would. But at a $2000 price point, and seemingly made of unobtanium, it's out of reach. The LTD has the the features I think I want at a much more affordable price.

I'm going to hit the LBS tomorrow to see what they have on the floor, just for fun.
 
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