[baumer]

So, I finally bought the dream bike from my youth- '95 Slingshot with Nuke Proof hubs (both were built in my home town of Grand Rapids, Michigan back in the day). Anyway, it's currently set up as an 8 speed and I'm planning on making this my first foray into SS'ing (my old Schwinn cruisers aside).

Considering the hubs aren't easy to replace/repair, I'd like to minimize the damage I might cause running them as single speed hubs. Can anyone suggest the cog/spacer set up which is least likely to gouge up the hub and dig into the freewheel body under torque? It looks like the King Kogs have the most surface area where they interface with the freewheel body. Any other suggestions? If the King Kogs are my best option, where can I get the best price? I'm assuming the spacers I use will have no effect on this. Thanks in advance...

 

[redxj]

King, Endless, or Surly cogs are the widest cogs. I think the widest is the Endless cog. I have used the Surly and Endless cogs personally and have no marks on the freehub (w/ Endless spacers).

 

[Obi]

Email Rumpfy...

Anyway, it's currently set up as an 8 speed and I'm planning on making thiare, talk to Rumpfy.s my first foray into SS'ing (my old Schwinn cruisers aside).

Talk to Rumpfy, I cannopt remember if those hubs are shimano style freehubs.
IE: Rumpfy over in the vintage/retro forum. He's got the knowledge and connections.

If so...you can always swap the 7 or 8 speed freehub body for a DX BMX freehub and the appropriately sized axle spacers, provided your frame will allow the proper chainline to happen. I've also used a "Fixxer" which replaces your standard freehub body, and allows you to use a Shimano or ACS BMX freewheel. You could even use a White Industries model if you wish.

The "idea":

http://www.dirtragmag.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-3020.html

Surly's Fixxer:

http://www.surlybikes.com/parts.html

click on "FIXXER"

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/fixed-hubs.html

I can't remember the price of the Fixxer and Freewheel, but the DX option is really solid and available through your LBS. Ask them to order the part from Quality, and the part # is "FW8910". I can't remember if mine came with cogs or not, but I'll include a pic set for reference. The 16t cog is part# "FW6504" and the 18t is part# "FW6506".

These are both over $89 expense, but it depends how much you value keeping your freehub in good shape.

 

[weather]

nuke proof hubs use shimano freehub bodies. very easy to replace.

 

[Obi]

Ditto, plus...

King, Endless, or Surly cogs are the widest cogs. I think the widest is the Endless cog. I have used the Surly and Endless cogs personally and have no marks on the freehub (w/ Endless spacers).

Profile makes wide based models too, though I'm partial to King's and Surly's.

 

[Obi]

Thanks...

nuke proof hubs use shimano freehub bodies. very easy to replace.

My shop rat mind's getting a bit overloaded with all this new/old tech.

edit: Weather, 86 that request, I forgot TeamDicky's got one! Here's a pic!

 

[shiggy]

Profile makes wide based models too, though I'm partial to King's and Surly's.

Profile cogs will not fit Shimano type bodies.

 

[gpsser]

nuke proof hubs use shimano freehub bodies. very easy to replace.

The cool thing about the NP hub that I have is that they have used a sealed bearing in the freehub. It definitely looks shimano, but it looks like they replaced the cup with an aluminum insert to hold the cartridge. Too bad the flange cracked. I have the 7 speed freehub laying around though.

 

[baumer]

Thanks!

You guys are correct, I believe the Nuke's use the Shimano freehub body, so the potential damage isn't as serious a problem as I previously thought- also, thanks Obi-one for that very helpful response, that DX freehub swap looks like it might be a pretty slick solution.

 

[Mudflaps]

The Nuke Proof definitely uses Shimano freehub bodies. The sticking point is that the sealed bearing and seal is rather specialized, so while replacing the freehub body is no big deal, getting a new sealed bearing and seal may be. I discovered about two years ago that Nuke Proof is gone when I tried to get a bearing/ seal for a customer's wheel and ended up replacing the hub with shimano. Since you live wherer they were, you may have a possibility.
On another note, you don't need any specialized spacers to obtain proper chainline. You can just use the spacers from disassembled cassettes with a lockring to keep it all together.