Best chain lube for wet conditions?
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Finish line wet is my #1 choice. For a 24H race I'd bring the bottle with me and reapply often
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Bar and Chain Oil...for real!
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purple extreme
With chain lube everyone has there own opinion of whats good and works. You need to find the lube that works for you.
some say (even in the mud)
squirt lube
pro review here
a recent thread on Squirt in the Ibis sub forum here
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I thought of proposing chain-l but having never tried it I restrained myself. It looks very thick and that's what you'll want, which is why chainsaw oil will be good too.BeerCan said:
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Finish Line wet. I've had the chain completely covered in mud for over 30 miles and it feels like its clean.
There may be other that work as well or better, but after a winter season I was convinced enough to buy a gallon jar of it. That takes some commitment.
There may be other that work as well or better, but after a winter season I was convinced enough to buy a gallon jar of it. That takes some commitment.
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He's absolutely right. Loggers operate in far worse conditions than we ride; mud, sawdust, water, etc....and, it works even better the faster the chain goes.mtnbiker72 said:
Home Depot sell a quart(or, 3 years' worth) for only $3.99!
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Pro Link for all conditions!
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... and attract a load of dirt so you can be sure to replace your parts earlier than expected.customfab said:
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Grease is a magnet for all particulate matter and a bad suggestion...straight-up. Bar and chainsaw oil has the perfect viscosity to keep chain links lubricated, under most riding conditions and withstand several dusty, dirty races.
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I've got another secret for you, racing is hard on stuff and sometimes you sacrifice consumable items in the name of speed. If you use the right grease and the right amount it won't attract any more dirt than the bar oil or heavy lubes that others have suggested. When it's on there right you shouldn't be able to tell it's covered in grease.PissedOffCil said:
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The Grease trick works great on Pro's bikes that get scrubbed clean every race and generally have entire drivetrain replacements often.
IME-Prolink is a joke for wet and muddy, never in my 19 years of riding have I experienced the level of chain suck as I did on Prolink. Fine for dry riding (certainly better than wax) but a terrible foul weather lube.
Since I started using Bar and Chain Oil I have not experienced chain suck at all and my chain wear has been significantly reduced. I have tested it in both the nastiest conditions and in the dry and dusty desert and it works as good as ANY bicycle lube on the market. The trick is proper application and in the really muddy days to ride through puddles to wash the mud off (don't worry, the oil stays on the chain).
Here is a picture from a particularly muddy ride last winter, all I did is wipe down the chain after the ride and was good for several more rides.
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IME-Prolink is a joke for wet and muddy, never in my 19 years of riding have I experienced the level of chain suck as I did on Prolink. Fine for dry riding (certainly better than wax) but a terrible foul weather lube.
Since I started using Bar and Chain Oil I have not experienced chain suck at all and my chain wear has been significantly reduced. I have tested it in both the nastiest conditions and in the dry and dusty desert and it works as good as ANY bicycle lube on the market. The trick is proper application and in the really muddy days to ride through puddles to wash the mud off (don't worry, the oil stays on the chain).
Here is a picture from a particularly muddy ride last winter, all I did is wipe down the chain after the ride and was good for several more rides.
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There are no reasons for a race to be harder on parts than any other ride at the same intensity level, on the same track, in the same conditions. It's not like there's a magic switch for wear on parts during training.customfab said:
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