Best cassette and chain?

Being a 'Shimano guy" I know this may sound crazy - but how about doing an 'upgrade' to the NX Eagle 12 speed groupset. I guarantee it will not break the bank. The 11-50 works on HG freehub bodies and all the cogs are steel. In regard to the chain, the main problem seems to be availability - but I have 500 miles on my Trek Rail with zero stretch so far.

Interested in this discussion.

Durability almost always comes down to added weight. So, downgrade that cassette to a Deore to get rid of the soft aluminum big cog and stick with a XTR chain. Finally, invest in a quality chain checker (or ruler to measure) and use it religiously. Or look at other options where the cassette doesn’t use aluminum in the top/big cogs.

Would a better quality chain like one of the better Wipperman chains, improve the longevity of aluminum cogs?

Doesn't Shimano have a new E-bike long wearing drivetrain out there?

The regular 12-speed drivetrains are pretty incredible for life span. On my E-bike I use an SLX cassette, 2000km and still looks new. The highend SRAM drivetrains also have unbelievable lifespan.

Sorry I didn't notice this was a motorbike thread. Deleted my suggestion

How fast a drivetrain, especially on an ebike wears out probably depends heavily on rider weight and level of motor assistance.
And of course on replacement of worn chains before it's too late.

I like my Sram 11 speed stuff. Small, compact, light and more than enough range for an ebike.
Have close to 1500 miles on mine. The X1 chain still hasn't reached the 0,5 mark.

SteveJewels said:

Would a better quality chain like one of the better Wipperman chains, improve the longevity of aluminum cogs?

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A friend got those for his parents ebikes. He said those fancy Wipperman chains didn't last any longer than the cheap Shimano chains they had before.

I got 5 months out of my SLX cassette/chain, just replaced w another SLX cass and an XT chain, $150. I was considering the Linkglide stuff too but wasn't available, then I was thinking switch to Sram stuff cause I have an XD driver and I prefer Gripshift, but the cassettes were WAY expensive

I've been happy enough with the 10 speed stuff that came on my bike. The chain just recently reached .75 stretch, so I replaced it with a $30 KMC e10, and it works great.

For longevity of the gears, just make sure they're steel, not aluminum.

If they arent' lasting very long just get some lower end chains & a heavy all steel cassette. Cheap to swap out both & they'll most likely last longer. Most expensive chains aren't using better steel, just weight reductions of plates or coatings that make them look nice nad reduce corrosion. All moot points for E bikes if you REALLY think about it. Those coatings only work for a very limited time in wear areas. Might also want to consider a thicker more tenacious chain lube.

Reminds me of when I briefly got into dirt bikes. Bought a cool Renthal AL chainring & it wore out in no time. Replaced with a cheap Steel chainring & it lasted 10x longer.

I am happy with my 10 S Deore, 11/46. That is way enough, why do you use 11S or even 12S?

33red said:

I am happy with my 10 S Deore, 11/46. That is way enough, why do you use 11S or even 12S?

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Because, Mo-Geers-Babeh!!!

🤣

.

Without taking the piss I'd thought an E-Bike would mean less time spent in the granny ring?
But as others have said, avoid a cassette with alloy big cogs, you don't need the weight saving so find steel ones. Didn't Shimano do an eight speed virtually e-specific drive train recently?

And get a couple of chains and rotate them. I would think an E-bike would stretch them faster.

My low gear is 34:42, about 0.81, the last ride on the old cassette I had to forgo the 42, so my low was 34:37 or about 0.92. I would consider them to be pretty hard core low gears.

What I have found is that most of my real cranking is technical uphills, and having the 3 big steel cogs on the aluminum carrier, makes for solid shifting when the going gets steep and rough. At the high speed end of the cassette I am just spinning so the shifting is less stressed.




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Just about any hill can be climbed. All it takes is a decent rider
a rear tire with enough grip and a transmission geared for you area.
6 years ago i bought a HT with 11S 32 10/42. I switched the front to a 28
nothing expensive but a great improvement. The year later on my fatbike
i switched the cassette from 11/36 to 11/42 again it climbed everywhere.

shreddr said:

My low gear is 34:42, about 0.81, the last ride on the old cassette I had to forgo the 42, so my low was 34:37 or about 0.92. I would consider them to be pretty hard core low gears.

What I have found is that most of my real cranking is technical uphills, and having the 3 big steel cogs on the aluminum carrier, makes for solid shifting when the going gets steep and rough. At the high speed end of the cassette I am just spinning so the shifting is less stressed.




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If i am fallowing you correctly it seems you shift while climbing. I try to always avoid shifting under load so
i memorize wich gear i need to select before the big climbs.

33red said:

I am happy with my 10 S Deore, 11/46. That is way enough, why do you use 11S or even 12S?

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Some 12 speed chains and cassettes are much more durable than any 10 speed ones. The op question was about durability, not range.

33red said:

Just about any hill can be climbed. All it takes is a decent rider

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lol, that and a bunch of horsepower!