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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just looking for suggestions on THE BEST aftermarket brake pads for Magura MT7 brakes? I'm sick of these garbage pads that came with my MT7's and want something that works.

I've seen pads from Galfer, Trickstuff, MTX, Disco, and some others, and just wondering what everyone thinks or knows is the best? Looking for the best performance for sustained, steep, fast trails. The least amount of fading, ability to keep the heat down, powerful stopping, good modulation, and lasts a good while. Also if they cut down on sound, that's a plus, but not a top priority. Running MDR-C CL 203 Magura rotors on my SC Megatower.

So far from some brief research, seems as if the MTX Gold up front and Red in back is the best you can buy? Or Trickstuff, but I can't seem to find pads for the MT7 4 piston brakes I have from them?

Thanks
 

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high pivot witchcraft
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Something not too powerful? 😝

 

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Can you give us more details? You were having some issues before. MT7s with 203 rotorts are very powerful and fade resistant, plus normally dead silient. I have never had them overheat, even on runs like Kamakazi at Mammoth on my DH bike when I was 240 pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Can you give us more details? You were having some issues before. MT7s with 203 rotorts are very powerful and fade resistant, plus normally dead silient. I have never had them overheat, even on runs like Kamakazi at Mammoth on my DH bike when I was 240 pounds.
Hey Cary, still the same problems as before. The front brake isn't working properly, no matter how many times I've bleed them. I've sanded the rotors with 100 grit sandpaper, then cleaned them 3 times with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, then lightly sanded the pads. Doesn't make a difference. The only thing that helped somewhat, was to do a super long extended bed in process. I went to a large flat parking lot and did the proper speed and slow down method 30-35 times, and after that, they started working better. Before, they would barely slow the front wheel down, maybe 25%. Then after the extended bed in process, they stop the front wheel around 50-75%. But still not powerful at all, and still can't lock up the front wheel. Plus I hear this annoying little squeak often and can feel a little tick tick tick from the rotor. I've looked at them on the stand very closely and there was a tiny bit of bend in the rotor, but it was really small, and my buddy and I worked it back to straight. But it still makes the noise and I can feel it rubbing. They have been like that since day one, and I told Magura all about it, and they claim there is no way there rotors would ship not perfectly straight! Hahaha. Which is total BS, because I've only had them for a month or two, never crashed, and yet had this problem the entire time I've had them.

Then the rear brake works, but has honking somewhat often and after riding down some super fast, really steep runs I can hear and feel the rotor and pads rubbing when I ride or walk back to the top of the trail. Some really loud squawking and squeaking.

Magura just keeps emailing back and forth with me, never DOING anything. They won't replace anything, won't take responsibility for their product having problems, and I'm really tired of it. They were supposed to have sent me a list of LBS that are Magura certified where I could take my bike into and have the look at it, but they never got back with me about that! Need to bug them again tomorrow. So far, NOT happy at all with these brakes or the lack of service and standing behind their product.

I just bought some MTX Gold and Red pads and will rework the rotors before I put these new pads on. Hopefully that solves the issue?
 

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high pivot witchcraft
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…Magura just keeps emailing back and forth with me, never DOING anything. They won't replace anything, won't take responsibility for their product having problems, and I'm really tired of it. They were supposed to have sent me a list of LBS that are Magura certified where I could take my bike into and have the look at it, but they never got back with me about that! Need to bug them again tomorrow. So far, NOT happy at all with these brakes or the lack of service and standing behind their product...
No offence, but I suspect the guys at Magura scatter when they see an email or call come in from you. As a side point, this is why I buy from and maintain a good relationship with my LBS. I am confident they will never leave me high and dry on anything. Then again, I suspect they would scatter as well if drove them nuts.

I also suspect that those MT7 brakes are killer, even with the “garbage pads that they came with.” I don’t own any but I have ridden lots of bikes with them and yup, killer. Never once have I been underwhelmed with anything from Magura.

Get out and ride man. You seem to have lots and lots of complaints, yet I thought I recalled you saying you were an inexperienced rider. You have killer gear. You are very fortunate. Be happy 🤘👊👍
 

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Formerly of Kent
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My Magura MT7/8 combo is the best set of brakes I’ve ever owned. I’ve had Hope, XT and XTR of multiple vintages, Avid/SRAM.

The only complaint I have about them is that the reach adjuster on the front/left lever didn’t come with any locktite on it, so loosens up over a couple rides. Fixed that by a) putting a tiny o-ring over the adjuster, which prevented rotation then b) swapping in carbon levers with an Allen wrench adjustment screw.

Truly one-finger brakes. The stock pads are good. I’ve used sintered rear, organic front from Trickstuff; they are one piece fir each side as opposed to two per side/four total pads per caliper for the MT7. They come in a “standard” (sintered) and “power” (organic). As you’d expect, power has more power, standard has more fade resistance.
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No Clue Crew
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Stock MT7 pads are not garbage. When your saga began didn’t you post you’re a new rider living in middle America with no elevation? Where are these ”sustained steep” trails?

MT7s, in my experience, are about the best on the market. Perhaps sell them and buy some XTs.
 

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Just looking for suggestions on THE BEST aftermarket brake pads for Magura MT7 brakes? I'm sick of these garbage pads that came with my MT7's and want something that works.

I've seen pads from Galfer, Trickstuff, MTX, Disco, and some others, and just wondering what everyone thinks or knows is the best? Looking for the best performance for sustained, steep, fast trails. The least amount of fading, ability to keep the heat down, powerful stopping, good modulation, and lasts a good while. Also if they cut down on sound, that's a plus, but not a top priority. Running MDR-C CL 203 Magura rotors on my SC Megatower.

So far from some brief research, seems as if the MTX Gold up front and Red in back is the best you can buy? Or Trickstuff, but I can't seem to find pads for the MT7 4 piston brakes I have from them?

Thanks
I have Magura MT7's front and rear on my Megatower, and I weigh 230lbs. I have no issue slowing down or locking up the front brake with 203mm Storm SL rotors and stock "P" pads. The "P" pads work great and provide tons of modulation before locking up, and are silent until they get wet, but they wear fast (150-200 miles on the rear for SoCal trail riding). I will replace my rotors with the 203mm MDR-P, and Disctop Sintered pads I bought from Germany when I bought some new levers. Almost any factory Magura related part is 1/2 to a 1/3 of the price from Germany vs here in the States, even with shipping the savings are worth the 2 week wait as far as I'm concerned.
 

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I am not defending the OP, but I will concur with him that my MT8's have been wonky and difficult. They came on a new bike I bought back in July and they have never worked right.

The rear brake is spongy and weak. I have bled it many times and can't seem to make it feel or stop better. I have not been in touch with Magura but I have followed their bleed video step by step with my iPad propped on my work bench, but no luck. The bleed video is its own frustration. The example in the video is a front brake. It calls for raising the uninstalled caliper to the level of the master to create equal pressure to avoid losing fluid when reinstalling the caliper bleed screw. By all accounts, according to the video, this is a necessary part of the process. But that is not possible for a rear caliper with internal brake routing such as I have on my Ripley V4.

Further, I have constant brake rub on the read disk.

I know this phrase gets bandied about a lot on this forum, but I have been wrenching on bikes since the 90s, and fixed just about everything, including bleeding many, many brakes. I've never had this frustration.

As for those who say. "Just get yourself some Shimano," well...these things cost money and that's not really a valid response.

And for those who will say I should reach out to Magura, honestly, what are they going to tell me that their own website the many YouTube videos, and people on this forum have not already suggested?
 

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high pivot witchcraft
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I am not defending the OP, but I will concur with him that my MT8's have been wonky and difficult. They came on a new bike I bought back in July and they have never worked right.

The rear brake is spongy and weak. I have bled it many times and can't seem to make it feel or stop better. I have not been in touch with Magura but I have followed their bleed video step by step with my iPad propped on my work bench, but no luck. The bleed video is its own frustration. The example in the video is a front brake. It calls for raising the uninstalled caliper to the level of the master to create equal pressure to avoid losing fluid when reinstalling the caliper bleed screw. By all accounts, according to the video, this is a necessary part of the process. But that is not possible for a rear caliper with internal brake routing such as I have on my Ripley V4.

Further, I have constant brake rub on the read disk.

I know this phrase gets bandied about a lot on this forum, but I have been wrenching on bikes since the 90s, and fixed just about everything, including bleeding many, many brakes. I've never had this frustration.

As for those who say. "Just get yourself some Shimano," well...these things cost money and that's not really a valid response.

And for those who will say I should reach out to Magura, honestly, what are they going to tell me that their own website the many YouTube videos, and people on this forum have not already suggested?
Guys I know with Maguras say that you need to follow the bleed instructions TO A TEE. No shortcuts. They also say the bleed process is quite a bit different from Shimano or SRAM.

Those who have MT5s keep spare bleed screws on hand, for when they strip the plastic POSs. It’s not all positive, but it almost is.
 

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Guys I know with Maguras say that you need to follow the bleed instructions TO A TEE. No shortcuts. They also say the bleed process is quite a bit different from Shimano or SRAM.

Those who have MT5s keep spare bleed screws on hand, for when they strip the plastic POSs. It’s not all positive, but it almost it.
Your comment confuses me.

That is the very core of my issue. The Magura video uses a front brake caliper. What about the rear?
 

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I am not defending the OP, but I will concur with him that my MT8's have been wonky and difficult. They came on a new bike I bought back in July and they have never worked right.

The rear brake is spongy and weak. I have bled it many times and can't seem to make it feel or stop better. I have not been in touch with Magura but I have followed their bleed video step by step with my iPad propped on my work bench, but no luck. The bleed video is its own frustration. The example in the video is a front brake. It calls for raising the uninstalled caliper to the level of the master to create equal pressure to avoid losing fluid when reinstalling the caliper bleed screw. By all accounts, according to the video, this is a necessary part of the process. But that is not possible for a rear caliper with internal brake routing such as I have on my Ripley V4.

Further, I have constant brake rub on the read disk.

I know this phrase gets bandied about a lot on this forum, but I have been wrenching on bikes since the 90s, and fixed just about everything, including bleeding many, many brakes. I've never had this frustration.

As for those who say. "Just get yourself some Shimano," well...these things cost money and that's not really a valid response.

And for those who will say I should reach out to Magura, honestly, what are they going to tell me that their own website the many YouTube videos, and people on this forum have not already suggested?
As I have already stated in another Magura thread, they have been fine for me to deal with here in the USA. When I had a brand new MT7 lever missing the tab that prevents the lever from moving too far away from the handlebars, they asked for a picture (probably proof there was no crash damage) and they sent me a replacement part promptly. At least contact them and find out for yourself if they are jerks...

I have had no issue bleeding their brakes, having installed and moved over to a new bike twice. I followed their latest YT vid and that was that. I also have no issue centering the pads and avoiding any rubbing on the discs. I know YMMV.

The OP has had issue in the Megatower thread regarding brake adapters for his frame (bike shop sold him wrong part), that a few including myself have helped him trouble shoot, including exact part numbers and photos of the proper part. Then a few weeks later he asks almost the same question in the same thread. I would advise OP NOT to wrench on his own bike, and move on from the parts that have been giving him issue, since he can't seem to figure it out even with members holding HIS hand...
 

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When I bought MT7s I hated them at first because they felt mushy but then I swapped out the stock plastic (?) levers for the fancy metal ones with the multiple adjustments and it made everything feel solid.
 

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No Clue Crew
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Your comment confuses me.

That is the very core of my issue. The Magura video uses a front brake caliper. What about the rear?
Put your bike in a stand, remove both wheels and rotate the stand so the rear caliper is higher than the master.

I honestly mean no offense, but if you can’t figure this out, perhaps you should take your bike to an actual mechanic. The bleed procedure on a Magura brake is as straightforward as it comes.
 

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Formerly of Kent
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Put your bike in a stand, remove both wheels and rotate the stand so the rear caliper is higher than the master.

I honestly mean no offense, but if you can’t figure this out, perhaps you should take your bike to an actual mechanic. The bleed procedure on a Magura brake is as straightforward as it comes.
This. Super easy.

Depending on the height on your clamp, length of your fork and other factors, you might not even have to take the front wheel off.

I don’t; however, I do it anyways, on the off chance that I spill or drop something and a drop of mineral oil goes somewhere I’d rather it not be.


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Hey Cary, still the same problems as before. The front brake isn't working properly, no matter how many times I've bleed them. I've sanded the rotors with 100 grit sandpaper, then cleaned them 3 times with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, then lightly sanded the pads. Doesn't make a difference. The only thing that helped somewhat, was to do a super long extended bed in process. I went to a large flat parking lot and did the proper speed and slow down method 30-35 times, and after that, they started working better. Before, they would barely slow the front wheel down, maybe 25%. Then after the extended bed in process, they stop the front wheel around 50-75%. But still not powerful at all, and still can't lock up the front wheel. Plus I hear this annoying little squeak often and can feel a little tick tick tick from the rotor. I've looked at them on the stand very closely and there was a tiny bit of bend in the rotor, but it was really small, and my buddy and I worked it back to straight. But it still makes the noise and I can feel it rubbing. They have been like that since day one, and I told Magura all about it, and they claim there is no way there rotors would ship not perfectly straight! Hahaha. Which is total BS, because I've only had them for a month or two, never crashed, and yet had this problem the entire time I've had them.

Then the rear brake works, but has honking somewhat often and after riding down some super fast, really steep runs I can hear and feel the rotor and pads rubbing when I ride or walk back to the top of the trail. Some really loud squawking and squeaking.

Magura just keeps emailing back and forth with me, never DOING anything. They won't replace anything, won't take responsibility for their product having problems, and I'm really tired of it. They were supposed to have sent me a list of LBS that are Magura certified where I could take my bike into and have the look at it, but they never got back with me about that! Need to bug them again tomorrow. So far, NOT happy at all with these brakes or the lack of service and standing behind their product.

I just bought some MTX Gold and Red pads and will rework the rotors before I put these new pads on. Hopefully that solves the issue?
They likely have been tied up with Sea Otter the last couple of weeks. Something is not right, so I would follow up with them. When functioning properly with stock pads, they should have a boatload of power and be silent (unless wet).
 
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