Right now I am riding a 2008 Raleigh Mojave 2.0 which I see now was a bad decision.... really should have coughed up some more money. I considered upgrading on this frame however I don't think this would be a good investment. I feel like the place that I am hindered the most is hill climbs, when I hit some root shelves I have to walk the bike. Thought about some more aggressive tires..... right now there is some Kenda Kwicks on there. Have the triangle pattern down the middle with some side knobs. Is this bike worth upgrading at all and if not what is the best hardtail 29er thats good at climbing for the price... try to keep it under a grand or at least not much over it.
Best 29er for hill climbs
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My suggestion would be not to upgrade it.nhand87 said:
The geometry and build is a typical hybrid bike. Save it for commuting and bike path riding - which is a good thing. Get yourself a nice 29"er rather than attempting to upgrade an entry level hybrid bike.
You won't be a bit constrained with your budget if you look at things such as...
Fisher Cobia
Giant Talon
Specialized Hardrock
Kona Kahuna
Cannondale TRAIL SL 29 2
Scott Scale 29 Comp
...and more. They are not going to be light weight HT's due to the component package (expect 28-30 pounds), but they'll top your hybrid Raleigh for off road riding and singletrack.
BB
+1 on BB's recommendations. You can get plenty of bike for around a grand, especially if you go looking right now for discounted 2010 models. I'm a huge fan of supporting your local, small-ish bike shop, but I have to say that REI is also a darn good outfit, and often has some of the best closeout deals of any brick and mortar store.
Don't worry about weights around 30 pounds. Unless you're racing at an elite level, weight is so over-hyped that it's ridiculous.
Don't worry about weights around 30 pounds. Unless you're racing at an elite level, weight is so over-hyped that it's ridiculous.
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All things being equal - it helps. Props to you though.CaveGiant said:
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Chainstay length has an effect on climbing ie. the shorter the chainstay, the more the wheel is tucked into the bike. This creates more leverage on the back tire for grip. I guess if you can find frame GEOs w/ something around a 17" chainstay. Just make sure the rest of the geometry works for you as well. Any HT will climb with relative efficiently, but the more "XC" race oriented frames typically have shorter stays for that purpose.
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:nono:CaveGiant said:
I'll call that bluff.
The extra 20 pounds would be at least a 10% overall weight gain (rider weight plus bike weight) for most. That would make quite a difference.
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light bikes are fine, but the lighter you are makes a huge difference. just lost some weight and feel like i can climb much better.
You can check out any year old 29er and get some pretty good stuff for around a grand. i am a fan of Gary Fisher 29ers and they climb great.
I would agree though, keep your other bike and use it as a commuter for sure.
You can check out any year old 29er and get some pretty good stuff for around a grand. i am a fan of Gary Fisher 29ers and they climb great.
I would agree though, keep your other bike and use it as a commuter for sure.
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Love the cat picture.
I am saying that a bike that fits well, pedals efficiently and is stable is more important than weight. Weight doesn't help me grip, weight doesn't keep the bike in balance, weight doesn't let me stay in control while using a lot of body geo to get over hard stuff.
I am not talking about a smooth road climb, I am talking about hard technical off road climb.
Sure losing a few pounds might help, but it is the least of my worries.
I am saying that a bike that fits well, pedals efficiently and is stable is more important than weight. Weight doesn't help me grip, weight doesn't keep the bike in balance, weight doesn't let me stay in control while using a lot of body geo to get over hard stuff.
I am not talking about a smooth road climb, I am talking about hard technical off road climb.
Sure losing a few pounds might help, but it is the least of my worries.
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OK, I'll not get into what to get specifically, but I will agree about not worrying to upgrade that bike, keep it for what it is. As to which bike climbs best, although CaveGiant may seem a bit out at left field with his saying weight doesn't matter, he is very right that a bike that fits and is maybe a few pounds heavier is better than one that doesn't fit and is lighter. Best bet is to test ride what you can get your hands on, see what feels good to you and then maybe come back here and do some searching on specifics on each bike and/or also ask about each bike.
OH yeah, biggest thing to make a bike climb fast - the engine, AKA you. If you're fat/out of shape/over weight, no matter what bike you have and how light you will never climb as fast as a fit, lean rider.
OH yeah, biggest thing to make a bike climb fast - the engine, AKA you. If you're fat/out of shape/over weight, no matter what bike you have and how light you will never climb as fast as a fit, lean rider.
+1p nut said:
If you want a fast climber go with a full rigid. You will feel like you are floating up hills. Single speeds are also great for climbing. With these two criteria in mind, you could probably get a higher quality frame and wheels for the same price as a fully geared hardtail. This is the route I would go.
As far as rigid SS bikes for around 1K, I'm not sure of your options...
I agree with lynx, I am fairly in shape but my stamina sucks as far as climbing. Get in shape keep stretching to stay limber and beef up you legs. You will see anoticable difference. Of course these are just recomendations, You may already be in great shape but need a little conditioning to get the most out of your body. Which is what I plan on doing, Going to the gym and doing some leg excercises and core strenghtening. Good luck and have fun
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This is where body weight and good endurance come in to play, BIG TIME I'm smack dab in the middle of the BMI for my height, but in all honesty I could use another 15lbs, but man let me tell you it sure helps on the climbs. Also doesn't hurt that although not fit right now, I have managed to be able to know and maintain my consitant climbing rate - people may accelerate off ahead of me on the start of the climb, but in most cases by the time I'm 1/2 way up I've caught them and then have to wait for them at the top, because starting off full steam ahead above what you can comfortably maintain for the entire time is a receipy to loose steam by 1/2 way up the climb.t_roy said:
Yeah I guess I don't have the ideal riders body. I'm 5'10" and weigh around 195, however I do workout on a regular basis. I guess I need to up my protein so I can lean out without losing too much muscle. Thanks for the advice.
Someone suggested a single speed, what advantages would it have?
Someone suggested a single speed, what advantages would it have?
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