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Can I save this derailleur (Sram Gx Eagle)? I replaced the hanger so unless there some crazy bend in the frame, the issue is with a bent derailleur. What's the best way to bend this back into alignment? When I google it up the only thing that comes up are articles about bending the hanger. Do I just use good old fashioned muscle? FYI, I adjusted the upper high screw to get it to the right as much as it would go. Suggestions other than ordering an new one which I've done? Thanks.

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Cage on SRAM derailleurs often look out of wack, especially when pivoted all the way back. Ensure hanger is straight, adjust B screw, limits, and tension and check how it works. It really doesn't matter much where the lower pulley is. It's just putting tension on the chain. The upper pulley is what guides the chain and does the shifting.
 

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I feel your pain...been through this multiple times with GX Eagle. First one was toast after 5 rides when I pulled in debris and it got yanked into spokes. I bought Park Hanger alignment tool and continually verify hanger is good but I've been through 2 hangers and on my 3rd der from debris.

I've taken cage/plates apart and tried gently bending them back into alignment but it's never going to be perfect. It's clear these are much less robust compared to the derailleurs I've had over the years.

Your's looks great compared to my current one. I don't even use 50T gear anymore because I'm afraid it will get sucked into spokes which has also happened multiple times.
 

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Not a role model
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All my RDs have cages that sort of bend inwards despite checking RD hanger alignment. They shift well enough for my standards. I had maybe 3 times in my own experience that a RD went into t he spokes. One time I was lucky and RD-in-spokes only resulted in the wheel skidding to a stop, rather than destroying the RD/wheel (27.5 Minion SS on Eagle-equipped bike)--had just finished climbing to top of hill and dropped into trail, didn't want to waste effort accelerating due to first turn being a sharp right downsloping switchback, and was quick to notice it mid-turn.

I figure that the only thing that matters is the guide pulley being aligned. The lower pulley only needs to deal with taking up chain slack. I avoid 11 and 12 speed drivetrains anyways.
 

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high pivot witchcraft
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...I avoid 11 and 12 speed drivetrains anyways.
Smart move (avoiding 12 speed SRAM at least) if you can live with the ratio range.

My 11 speed X01 10-42 (or maybe it was 11-42) drivetrain was the best drivetrain I have had in my life. My X0 Eagle drivetrain may be the worst.

I don't know a single person (who rides a lot) who has not had major trauma with their Eagle drivetrain, whatever flavour. Bent rear d's are at the top of the list, as is destroyed cassettes, snapped chains and other issues because it takes 2-5 seconds for the drivetrain to engage properly when shifting into 2nd or granny gear (and yes - in my riding area, in a lot of sections, it's granny or push). And yes, they are all set up properly, including the b-nut, using the orange plastic SRAM guide.

Although it adds a major layer of complexity to my riding (especially on unfamiliar trails), I have learned to spin quickly with no torque, before laying the power to the pedals. What a joke, especially considering the cost of SRAM components.

I'm going to move forward with the new 12 speed Shimano offerings - likely XT - for the next while and see how things go.
 

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I've bent countless derailleurs back into shape by hand, no tools. Just try to isolate the forces from the hanger.
Same here...feels wrong doing that with a $110 derailleur but that's what I'm down to doing on my latest GX that's all twisted up. It still shifts pretty good I just stay away from the 50T gear.
 

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I don't know a single person (who rides a lot) who has not had major trauma with their Eagle drivetrain, whatever flavour. Bent rear d's are at the top of the list, as is destroyed cassettes, snapped chains and other issues...
Glad to hear it's not just me...I refuse to step up to XO, X1, XXXXX1...whatever it is. $300+ for a derailleur and over $400 for a cassette? No thanks... Sh*t takes a beating around here so I focus on durability and bang for the buck.
 
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