Beginner Starting Out; Used 2005 Specialized P2 - good choice?

It would seem that with your biking background and what you seem to be wanting to try on the trails, the P2 would be a good choice for you to break into mtb-ing. It is an entry level DH/FR/DJ type of bike that may have some questionable components should one try huge drops and jumps-namely wheels and fork.

That said, it is pretty important that the bike fits you and serves the riding style you are interested in. If you are interested in some XC or All Mountain, perhaps an AM bike might be a worthy consideration. For XC, the P2 might be heavier than XC hardtails. At your size, I would say you need at least a large frame--you didn't say what size the pre-owned P2 is. If it is truly in new condition, the price seems reasonable since that bike retailed for around $900-$1000 new. I would always make a lower offer on anything used and see if you can negotiate some savings from the asking price.

Dave

EDIT: As this is a bike that may have been used for some extreme riding, query the previous owner about this and check the frame over very well for bent tubes and cracked welds--also check the fork and wheel true. The fork should move through the full range of travel without any clunking at either end.

Closely inspect all the frame joint welds and the tubing immediately adjacent to the welds for cracks. Small dings and dents are usually okay but larger ones can be a problem with aluminum frames as a crack may form there later on.

While test riding, shift the bike through all gears up and down to make sure the derailleurs are hitting each gear selection immediately and without grinding and excessive noise.

Inspect the brake and shifter cables looking for rusted cable, kinks in the cable or housings.

Make sure the brakes stop the bike adequately and without surging or excess vibration which may indicate bent rotors. Some noise from disc brakes is normal but grinding is not.

Inspect the wheels/tires by spinning them, looking both lengthwise and at the rim to determine how true they are. Also give the spokes a tug to check for tightness. I also will check wheel bearing preload/wear by grabbing the wheel at the top and wiggling it side-to-side to see if there is excess wobble--some lateral free play is necessary for best spin and to avoid over-tight bearing wear but I typically keep my bikes quite tight. Obviously check air pressure.

That bike has nutted wheels, I believe, rather than quick-releases. Check these nuts for proper torque--enough to keep the wheel on while you are testing it-recheck with tools if you buy it.

Check the preload on the headset bearing by braking the front wheel and rocking the bike back-and-forth. There should be no forward-aft movement at the stem or top of the fork. Some movement at the front brake may occur.

Make sure the saddle and seat post are secure.


These are the main things I look for whether looking at a used bike or picking up a new, professionally setup bike. Even pros can miss something and I know what I like and makes me feel secure.


As was previously posted, for longer trail rides and climbing, the more purpose designed DH bikes are not the most comfortable or easy because of the low saddle/seat tube height. Some All Mountain bikes can be a good compromise between a heavy bike that can be hucked and a light XC bike. They are often beefier for the drops and tricks yet the geometry is more suited to longer stints in the saddle and climbing. But if you really like the DH layout and don't mind mashing it more often, the P2 may work nicely.

Dave,

Thanks.... Well good news, I picked up the bike I checked everything you suggested and all looked great. To be honest, the bike looked like it was rarely ridden, which was corroborated by the sellers statement. The only major wear (which by no means was major) was small paint chips in the middle parts of the frame - perhaps from lying/standing the bike up against hard objects.

I tested the bike for a couple minutes last night and everything seemed fine. My one concern/question, and this might be just because of my lack of knowledge of bikes, the breaks to me seem a little soft ? it's been a long while since i've actually been on a bike and never a bike of this caliber (i know not the most high end, but not your everyday wally world put together).

This actually might also be because I went up an down the block and that's as far as I got with testing. To describe "soft", when I apply the back break seems like it takes a while for it to come to a complete stop ? break pads look good might just need some re-adjustment ?

I plan on taking it in to my LBS and having them overlook the bike and perform a "tune-up" if needed - unless you suggest something else ? Also, what should one expect to pay for such a service ? roughly...

I'm in the Inland Empire, So Cal area