[ahimanic]

I noticed after switching to the 150mm AM1 that there may be a bit of flexing or slippage in the fork dropouts. I say that because during hard turns and whenever I drop the front wheel hard on the pavement from a manual I hear the front rotor rub. I guess that can also be from the flexing of the wheel. However, I didn't have this problem with my old 5" fork.

I currently have the stock Mavic QR skewers that came with the Crossmax wheels. They don't seem very strong. Do you think a beefier QR would help? If yes what do you recommend?

I was looking at the new FSA Scatto until I heard there's a recall on it.

 

[Mr.P]

Not a quick release, but if your hubs can do it, a BMX bolt on skewer would stiffen things up I'm sure.

I have bolt-on skewers and I loose no time changing a flat as my allen tool is in the same pouch as the fresh tube.

Bolt-on skewers may be stiffer, but it is hard for me to tell.

Mr. P

 

[ahimanic]

What kind of bolt-on skewers do you have?

I remember the old Control Tech skewers were bolt on by allen key.

The problem with the BMX axle/bolt combo is that don't you need to have a wrench to loosen it?

 

[keen]

What kind of bolt-on skewers do you have?

I remember the old Control Tech skewers were bolt on by allen key.

The problem with the BMX axle/bolt combo is that don't you need to have a wrench to loosen it?

You can purchase bolt on skewers from Nashbar & oddsn'endos . They require a 5mm allen wrench.

 

[Jerk_Chicken]

Hope is nice, too. I had the same problem and the Hopes solved it.

 

[Mr.P]

What kind of bolt-on skewers do you have?

I remember the old Control Tech skewers were bolt on by allen key.

The problem with the BMX axle/bolt combo is that don't you need to have a wrench to loosen it?

I have the Nashbar ones that Keen mentioned (allen wrench).

BMX bolt-ons require a wrench for the bolts.

Mr. P

 

[drum714]

You can purchase bolt on skewers from Nashbar & oddsn'endos . They require a 5mm allen wrench.

Is this the same thing as a QR skewer? I guess my question is will these be stiffer than a regular QR or will I need to use a BMX bolt on to stiffen the front end. If I use the BMX bolt ons will I have to take apart anything in my hub. I curently am running a Deore like hub.

 

[keen]

Is this the same thing as a QR skewer? I guess my question is will these be stiffer than a regular QR or will I need to use a BMX bolt on to stiffen the front end. If I use the BMX bolt ons will I have to take apart anything in my hub. I curently am running a Deore like hub.

Bolt on Skewers still use a QR axle - they allow for better axle tensioning. BMX axles are much stiffer and do require the hub to be disasembled. One side note I would only use a BMX axle w/ a fork that has aluminum lowers. I was told that forks w/ magnesium lowers and solid BMX axles can cause dropout breakage.

 

[Mr.P]

I was told that forks w/ magnesium lowers and solid BMX axles can cause dropout breakage.

I wonder how? The solid bolt-on is under the same forces that the QR/shaft is under. Some small amount of flexing of the QR system should not be the safety net for magnesium lowers not failing.

I can see it if 8" rotors were used.

I'm interested as I might try this soon and I have... magnesium lowers. Any more info is appreciated.

Mr. P

 

[keen]

I wonder how? The solid bolt-on is under the same forces that the QR/shaft is under. Some small amount of flexing of the QR system should not be the safety net for magnesium lowers not failing.

I can see it if 8" rotors were used.

I'm interested as I might try this soon and I have... magnesium lowers. Any more info is appreciated.

Mr. P

I had a 2002 Fox Vanilla which I wanted to run a BMX axle on. I posted for concerns and had a couple people state that the QR flex was a good thing w/ magnesium. The BMX axle might load the dropouts too much. I ditched that fork and purchased a Manitou sherman firefly QR version - I called Manitou for their take on solid axles - I got an almost identical explanation for useage. I am sure it can be done but after having so many QR forks and now running 20mm I don't have to wonder, guess, worry etc.

 

[drum714]

I absolutly agree that the 20mm thru axel is the bomb, I don't have the cash to drop on a new fork and wheel for my Urban rig. I bought the frame for $100 and slapped on all my old parts on it and have a pretty solid ride. My only complaint is that the rear has horizontal drop outs and likes to slip, and the flex from my zocchi drop off. The bolt on axels would deffinetly help with both these issues rather inexpensivly

 

[MknzBikR]

I got a set of TANK Cycles skewers, there pretty strong as far as QR goes. Check your LBS see if they can order in a set of those for you.

 

[mattsavage]

I noticed after switching to the 150mm AM1 that there may be a bit of flexing or slippage in the fork dropouts. I say that because during hard turns and whenever I drop the front wheel hard on the pavement from a manual I hear the front rotor rub. I guess that can also be from the flexing of the wheel. However, I didn't have this problem with my old 5" fork.
QUOTE]

Did you try sanding all the paint off the dropouts? Heavily painted d.o.'s might cause it to slip. My guess is it's probably just flex of your fork. I ran my Sherman with qr lowers when I first got and noticed slight rotor rub on hard, rutted turns.

The AM will probably be a little more flexy than a true freeride/urban fork because they're trying to keep weight down for its all mountain application.