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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've just removed the monolink, and see that there are 2 bearings in each pivot, separated in the middle with a spacer or sleeve of some sort. How do I remove the bearings? Do I need to knock each bearing out from the inside (ie somehow obtain some purchase between the spacer and the bearing)? Or does the whole assembly pop out if I tap the bearing from the outside?

Edit: '08 Durance, if it makes any difference.
 

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Schipperkes are cool.
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There is a special tool, but you can press out the bearings with general tools, tap oe bearing inwards, the other will pop out. Make sure that you put more grease in the new bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Banks. Good to know that before I start waling on the bearings.

Is there somewhere I can get the bearing tool? There are about 5 or 6 Mavericks in our area, and it might make sense for us to at least have one among us. In any case, it does not seem right to work on a Maverick with a hammer!
 

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joeadnan said:
Thanks Banks. Good to know that before I start waling on the bearings.

Is there somewhere I can get the bearing tool? There are about 5 or 6 Mavericks in our area, and it might make sense for us to at least have one among us. In any case, it does not seem right to work on a Maverick with a hammer!
I seem to remember someone posting about the best bearings to use but can't find the post. Does anyone have any ideas on this or where to buy them??
Rich
 

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Schipperkes are cool.
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6001 bearing is what you want. Make sure to pop off both seals & squirt more grease inside the bearings!
 

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banks said:
6001 bearing is what you want. Make sure to pop off both seals & squirt more grease inside the bearings!
:thumbsup: only one side greased most of the time.
 

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Hi Rewi,

interestingly enough I went through the same exercise a couple of weekends ago. I was chasing a creak coming from the bottom bracket area and found the 2 rear bearings on the monolink completely seized. I tried the method of pushing one bearing to get the other one out and after more than an hour of bashing on either bearing and nothing moving, I used a flat screwdriver and managed to get one of the bearings out from the inside. Once the first one was out, the second one was pretty easy.
I carefully used my vise to push the new bearings in and that went without any issue.

The only thing I didn't do and probably should have done was to put some more grease into the new bearings.

Good luck...
 

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Gentleman Loser
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I've found that the lower link bearings wear quite a bit faster than the upper link bearings.

On a bike that's been ridden for a few months, if you drop the link and try to turn the bearings by hand, they probably won't turn.

However, if you reconnect the link, disconnect the strut from the upper mount and then rotate the swingarm, they'll probably turn freely.

You can't really guage the performance of the system by attempting to hand-turn the bearings.

To be honest, they need not be anywhere close to perfect in order that the monolink function nearly perfectly. Keep them fairly greasy and I think you'll be happy.

- Tom
 

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Thanks for all the tips guys.
I have ordered some bearings and will strip it down once they arrive. They were done about 7 months of hard riding ago (thanks Kevin) so prob due for a look. Main reason is I can feel a lot of play in the rear triangle if I grab the seat post and rock the back wheel from side to side.
 

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Count Zero said:
I've found that the lower link bearings wear quite a bit faster than the upper link bearings.

On a bike that's been ridden for a few months, if you drop the link and try to turn the bearings by hand, they probably won't turn.

However, if you reconnect the link, disconnect the strut from the upper mount and then rotate the swingarm, they'll probably turn freely.

You can't really guage the performance of the system by attempting to hand-turn the bearings.

To be honest, they need not be anywhere close to perfect in order that the monolink function nearly perfectly. Keep them fairly greasy and I think you'll be happy.

- Tom
As well on the numerous Monolink I have had to maintain. Rear bearings always stuck before front bearings, normal the stress is higher than on the front triangle. But if you consider "good" bearings such as SKF or INA, you will ride your bike for a couple of years without problem ... not the case with the original ones, enduro bearings.
 

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I've just stripped it all down and funny enough the bearings appear to be ok and haven't seized. The play in the rear triangle is coming from the bottom pivot of the Monolink.
Does this just mean it wasn't tight enough? (it sure seemed tight when I had to unbolt it.

Any ideas before I put it back together??

Thanks
 

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Fortes Fortuna Iuvat
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Just replace the bearings. I had the same problem as you and that method worked for me.
 

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are the brass coloured bearing rings mounted in the frame halves worn? i.e. if you slide in the monolink bolts without the monolink, is there play?

is there obvious wear on the bolts themselves?

ragetty
 

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a little pitting on the bolts but nothing bad. Thankfully no play, went back together nice and tight... now to tune the DUC32
 

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Fortes Fortuna Iuvat
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Did you coat the bolts with grease before reinstalling?
 

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Fortes Fortuna Iuvat
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Yes, definitely. This will help prevent pitting on the bolt.

Keep in mind that as pitting occurs on the bolt, it will allow for play between the bolt and the bearings.

My bottom monolink bolt looked like this so I replaced it:
 

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