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Hybrid Leftys aren't real
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KarlosPirahna said:
Sorry I've done a search but all I get is loads of discussion about migration.

Could someone please direct me to the actual procedure for correcting migration.

I have a lfety max 140 TPC by the way.

Mucho appreciation :)
Owners manual? You remove the top cap with an external bearing BB tool, (XTR, FSA Mega Exo etc.). Loosen the clamp bolt around the top before doing this, to reduce thread deformation. This will allow the fork's gut's to come up at you. Take off the two split rings under the top cap, hold the bike off the ground, grab the wheel, and slam in groundward. The first few hit's will feel hollow and "move-ish", when it's done, it will bottom out more solidly. Cheers!
 

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LA CHÈVRE
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It's all in the Lefty Max Manual.

Basically, you put the bike in a workstand, open the top cap with the rebound closed (full clockwise), remove the two halves of the split ring, pull down the fork in a few quick, sudden strokes until it's done, you'll here the sound change a bit when it's done and the rebound knob and the top of internals will sit deeper in the Lefty... Put back the split ring, close the top cap, put the rebound as it was, go ride!

edit: seems my post and Mendon's complete each other... I always forget the loosen top clamp part since mine is Carbon.
 

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Is it the same procedure for the Lefty DLR2? I got an old 2001 Lefty manual with my new fork, and there is no DLR2 manual on the Cannondale web site. (All the previous posts about this seem to be about the Max, too..)

Mine has the split-ring and the fork is physically able to go through the same procedure as the Max, but it isn't doing anything to fix the ~2cm loss of travel problem I have with my fork.
 

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Hybrid Leftys aren't real
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rek2 said:
Is it the same procedure for the Lefty DLR2? I got an old 2001 Lefty manual with my new fork, and there is no DLR2 manual on the Cannondale web site. (All the previous posts about this seem to be about the Max, too..)

Mine has the split-ring and the fork is physically able to go through the same procedure as the Max, but it isn't doing anything to fix the ~2cm loss of travel problem I have with my fork.
Should be the same, my guess is, it's not being dealt with firmly enough. The other question is, are you measuring the extended length, with the split rings out, and the fork fully extended? Fully trail ready, the listed measurements provided by Cannondale the measurements come up short. Cheers!
 

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MendonCycleSmith said:
Should be the same, my guess is, it's not being dealt with firmly enough. The other question is, are you measuring the extended length, with the split rings out, and the fork fully extended? Fully trail ready, the listed measurements provided by Cannondale the measurements come up short. Cheers!
I'm measuring the gap between the fork and the top of the front tyre. (A 110mm fork can't work with 90mm of clearance)

No matter how hard and often I ram the front wheel down while resetting the bearings, it always comes up as 9cm clearance. If I lower the pressure in the fork so that I can bottom it out, it hits a stop before hitting the front tyre.. so I know it's not a mount/clamp position issue.

Stupid thing is that it's lost this 2cm of travel in just one ride -- a bike path ride at that! -- after getting rebuilt. (I had migration issues before the rebuild and checked it as I left the shop -- 12cm or so of clearance, as you'd expect.) If I have to go get it rebuilt again... :madmax: fortunately I know the LBS techs fairly well (not so much because they keep having to fix this stupid fork, I ride with them fairly often :p )

Oh how I miss the simple and uncomplicated days of 2001-era electronically controlled leftys, lol :rolleyes:
 

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Hybrid Leftys aren't real
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rek2 said:
I'm measuring the gap between the fork and the top of the front tyre. (A 110mm fork can't work with 90mm of clearance)
(I had migration issues before the rebuild and checked it as I left the shop -- 12cm or so of clearance, as you'd expect.)
Sounds like your shop is capable of this. What you most likely are running into is a fairly light bearing preload. This will cause the bearings to stuff themselves allong the races, on particularly sharp impacts, causing "rapid travel adjustment" (hmmm, maybe Cannondale should harness this). In your case, if it truely all happened in one pathway ride, my guess is it's very light, and you did one or two curb drops or little jumps, and it occured. Have your guys check the two axis's of the inner races thickness with a micrometer, if one is thinner than the other, they should bump the race thickness up till they are even. Start with that, then if need still presents itself, push them up another thousandth. The other possible factor that would make this be more common, is using a very light, slippery lube to rebuild. Back in the 90's, many team riders would have their forks rebuilt with Triflow, they ran like magic, and the heavier bearing preloads in those days, slowed it down, but it still needed a re set post race. If your pals look pale faced at this proposition, Cannondale can do it, or people such as myself=:) Cheers!
 

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mutaullyassuredsuffering
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80mm lefty

rek2 said:
I'm measuring the gap between the fork and the top of the front tyre. (A 110mm fork can't work with 90mm of clearance)

No matter how hard and often I ram the front wheel down while resetting the bearings, it always comes up as 9cm clearance. If I lower the pressure in the fork so that I can bottom it out, it hits a stop before hitting the front tyre.. so I know it's not a mount/clamp position issue.

Stupid thing is that it's lost this 2cm of travel in just one ride -- a bike path ride at that! -- after getting rebuilt. (I had migration issues before the rebuild and checked it as I left the shop -- 12cm or so of clearance, as you'd expect.) If I have to go get it rebuilt again... :madmax: fortunately I know the LBS techs fairly well (not so much because they keep having to fix this stupid fork, I ride with them fairly often :p )

Oh how I miss the simple and uncomplicated days of 2001-era electronically controlled leftys, lol :rolleyes:
I've just gotten used to the 80mm lefty. It makes the Rush turn a little bit more like an XC bike! It's been out for it's third C-dale rebuild for a month now, but I'm starting to think it will just always be that way.... I can slam the wheel hard enough to break my stand and it still will not reset. If C-dale doesn't fix or replace it... I'm going to buy a used DLR1
 

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Got my Scalpel back today (only took it in a couple of days ago; been busy with work, etc.) They got the Cannondale rep to take a look at it since it'd only recently been overhauled, and he found that air was leaking past a piston in the air chamber -- my fork had a single-seal piston which was known to be a troublesome part. Air would leak past the piston, so you have some air pushing the fork down, as well as the 'proper' air chamber pushing it up.

They replaced it with a newer dual-seal piston which apparently is a lot more reliable, and should resolve this problem. If any of you guys are having similar troubles (bearings that dont seem to want to reset), you might want to mention to your shop guys.
 

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Guys, I think my Lefty is fu*ked up. :mad:
I tried to reset the migration as I head really bad top out sounds during the last ride and I noticed that the lower part of the telescope exteds so far that it moves about 4-5 cm out of the for boot - I can see the bearing races.
I think that the only thing that prevents this kind of move in the fully assembled form are the split rings.
Is this normal or should I bring the fork to my LBS for inspection? :confused:
 

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Hybrid Leftys aren't real
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pecka said:
Guys, I think my Lefty is fu*ked up. :mad:
I tried to reset the migration as I head really bad top out sounds during the last ride and I noticed that the lower part of the telescope exteds so far that it moves about 4-5 cm out of the for boot - I can see the bearing races.
I think that the only thing that prevents this kind of move in the fully assembled form are the split rings.
Is this normal or should I bring the fork to my LBS for inspection? :confused:
Back from vacation, thanks for the out of office note Tony=:) Pecka, what's your axle to crown, with the fork assembled, and with the split rings removed, and the fork fully extended?
 

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MendonCycleSmith said:
Back from vacation, thanks for the out of office note Tony=:) Pecka, what's your axle to crown, with the fork assembled, and with the split rings removed, and the fork fully extended?
I'll check that and I'll report back to you. In any case I found out that the pressure in the SPV chamber as too low so when I pumped it the strange top-out sound went away.
I'll check the length and let you know.
 
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