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Use cheap washers and a QR

I had a hell of a time trying to do the same thing on my Hope Pro II rear hub - I even went cave man on the axle with a mallet, trying to make it come out along with one of the bearings, but it didn't work.
I didn't want to buy the special tool for doing this and I didn't want to go to my LBS to let them do it, so I went to Home Depot and bought lots of cheap washers of various sizes and a very long nut (about 2 - 3 inch long), which cost me less than $10 (half of that was the nut alone).
Then, using a quick release skewer and stacks of washers on each side of the QR, I managed to easily extract all the bearings out of the hub and then press the new ones in. The key here is to use washers of the right size (i.e. the ones that support the whole assembly by sitting on the bearings or the hub).
If I wasn't clear enough, I can draw you a picture.
Using the same technique I managed to extract / press the bearings in my BB cups too.
 

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alexalecu said:
I had a hell of a time trying to do the same thing on my Hope Pro II rear hub - I even went cave man on the axle with a mallet, trying to make it come out along with one of the bearings, but it didn't work.
I didn't want to buy the special tool for doing this and I didn't want to go to my LBS to let them do it, so I went to Home Depot and bought lots of cheap washers of various sizes and a very long nut (about 2 - 3 inch long), which cost me less than $10 (half of that was the nut alone).
Then, using a quick release skewer and stacks of washers on each side of the QR, I managed to easily extract all the bearings out of the hub and then press the new ones in. The key here is to use washers of the right size (i.e. the ones that support the whole assembly by sitting on the bearings or the hub).
If I wasn't clear enough, I can draw you a picture.
Using the same technique I managed to extract / press the bearings in my BB cups too.
Dont know why you had such a problem. I just swapped the QR axle out for the 10mm thru axle the other day. The drive side bearing popped right out with one blow from a rubber mallet.
 

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alexalecu said:
I had a hell of a time trying to do the same thing on my Hope Pro II rear hub - I even went cave man on the axle with a mallet, trying to make it come out along with one of the bearings, but it didn't work.
I didn't want to buy the special tool for doing this and I didn't want to go to my LBS to let them do it, so I went to Home Depot and bought lots of cheap washers of various sizes and a very long nut (about 2 - 3 inch long), which cost me less than $10 (half of that was the nut alone).
Then, using a quick release skewer and stacks of washers on each side of the QR, I managed to easily extract all the bearings out of the hub and then press the new ones in. The key here is to use washers of the right size (i.e. the ones that support the whole assembly by sitting on the bearings or the hub).
If I wasn't clear enough, I can draw you a picture.
Using the same technique I managed to extract / press the bearings in my BB cups too.
Visual learner here.

Pictures please!
 

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Unfortunately I didn't take pictures of the assembly I made to extract the axle / bearings.

Have a look at the schematics of the Hope Pro II rear hub, I hope your hub is similar to mine:


After removing the caps and the freehub, I was left with 2 bearings, the axle and the non-drive side seal (the green seal in the 2nd photo below):

IMAGE 2 - the drive side of the hub:


IMAGE 3 - the non-drive side of the hub:


As mentioned before, hitting the axle with a mallet was useless, so here's what I did.
The purpose of the whole assembly is to support the QR on the hub body (on the drive side) and on the axle end (on the non-drive side), so that when you shift the QR clamp from the open to the close position, the axle will get extracted towards the drive side.

1. thick washer over the axle (with the hole larger in diameter than the axle) that sits on the inside rim of the hub body (IMG 2); luckily the washer was large enough to sit on the inside rim of the hub body, but small enough not to sit on the spoke elbows

2. very long nut (or a very long spacer) that sits on washer #1; its inner diameter needs to be bigger than the axle so that it slides over the axle; if the nut is not long enough, put some more washers on top of it so that the last one sits above the end of the axle (the inner diameter of these nuts needs to be greater than the axle diameter)
Here's how the long nut looks like:


3. a couple of washers (smaller and smaller) to reduce the inner diameter so that the inner diameter of the last one is slightly above the diameter of the QR skewer

4. feed the QR skewer though this whole assembly and the hub axle - the threaded end on the non-drive side

5. on the non-drive side, put a small washer (#5) on top of the axle and then fasten the QR nut; keep the QR lever in the open position
If the QR skewer is too long, try a shorter one (the front wheel QR); you might need to add some more washers so that just the threaded section of the QR is visible on the non-drive side, otherwise you won't be able to sit the QR nut on the washer # 5

6. once the QR nut is hand tight, shift the QR lever to the CLOSE position - luckily the axle along with the drive side bearing gets extracted; now disassemble everything and hit the axle with a mallet, it should come out easily

Next you have to do something similar to extract the non-drive side bearing

Now, when you press the new bearings, keep in mind that the washers that sit on the bearings need to be supported by both the inner and outer race of the bearing - or you can use an old bearing of the same size.
 
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