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Bearclaw Thunderhawk Gravel Bike

21K views 16 replies 10 participants last post by  Funoutside 
#1 ·
I'm looking for a gravel bike and I like the idea of titanium, so I can beat the heck out of it and never worry about paint scratches or cracks.

This Bearclaw Thunderhawk seems to check all the boxes, comparing it to the Moots Routt 45, the price is right at under $2k for the frame. It has a 73 degree head angle which could be helpful on the steeper descents of the mountainous terrain here in Utah. I'm not sure I'll need 46mm tires but it is nice to have the option.

https://www.bearclawbicycleco.com/thunderhawk-titanium-650b-gravel-bike

Anyone out there on a Bearclaw?

Also, any recommendations for drivetrain? I love idea of SRAM Force 1 with no front derailleur, but I worry it will have the range for the steep Utah climbs, especially if it will double as a road bike. If I went with a 10-42 cassette, what form chainring size would be recommended to handle 10% grades as well as flat roads?
 
#2 ·
That looks like a sweet ride! One thing I learned early on in my gravel pursuit is never think you won't use/need a fatter tire!

I also live out west and have put quite a bit of thought and research into 1x vs 2x drive train for the type of riding I might encounter. Where I live we have a lot of very long, steep climbs so I opted for the 2x. I have a friend who decided to go with a 1x on his gravel bike. He ends up having to muscle his way up the really steep stuff (I'm a fan of high cadence) and runs out of gears on the descents and some flat stuff. I find it is better to have the gears and not need them, than to want them and not have them.
 
#4 ·
Most gravel bikes that have a 1x come with a 42T chainring. I have Rival 1 with a 10-42 I went down to a 38T to handle the steep offroad climbs but now it's pretty easy to spin out on asphalt descends, but at least I use all my gears and I don't really care about going fast to be honest.

Best is to just grab a gear calculator and play around, think what gears you use the most on your current bikes, whether you like a high or a low candence etc. Gearing choice is a very personal thing IMO.

If you decide to go with a 2x skip the 50/34 road double because it's pointless and go with something like a 46/30.
 
#7 ·
Oops my brain fart. The Bearclaw Thunderhawk has a head tube angle from 69.5-71.5, depending on the frame size. Comparing that to say the Moots Routt, which tops out a 73 head tube angle, so comparatively the Bearclaw is slacker and better for descents.

Great advice on the drivetrains. I love my 1x on my mountain bike but it spins out on fast descents down a gravel road or pavement. Maybe I can demo something with Rival....
 
#8 ·
I love my 1x on my mountain bike but it spins out on fast descents down a gravel road or pavement. Maybe I can demo something with Rival....
Same thing, just different size chainring and brifters.

I'm guessing you have a 32T or similar.

32x10 at 90 cadence with 29x2.3 tyres: 25mph

42x10 at 90 cadence with 700x42mm tyres: 31mph

I see that the Thunderhawk comes with an 11-36 cassette. Pretty useless IMO, not sure if they could build it up with a 10-42. If you have to do it you'll need an XD freehub body, probably new chain, and a long cage rear derailleur. Not good.
With the 11-36 you would spin out everywhere and you don't even get a 1:1 low gear.

Just to give you an idea most gravel bikes come with a 50-34 (sadly) and an 11-32 or 11-34.

42x10 at 90 cadence: 31mph
50x11 at 90 cadence: 33.8mph

34x34 is 1:1, 42x42 is 1:1.
(700x42 tyres)

Also factor in tyre diameter. Are you gonna run something like 622-45mm or 650b-47mm?
 
#9 ·
Very useful information. They sell the Thunderhawk as a frameset so I’d build it up myself with a 10-42 cassette, if I went with 1x. I’d really like to demo a gravel bike with 1x to see how it works for me. I don’t really care about being a speed demon on the steep descents, but the bike has to climb some 10-12% grades and keep up on the flats and milder descents.

Any recommendations on a carbon gravel wheelset? What is an ideal rim width if you want to be able to run up to 45mm gravel tires, but then on a different day, skinny down to run a wider slick tire for a pavement only?
 
#10 ·
I'd go with a 20-23mm ID rim. For a 45mm tyre max I don't see a reason to go with a wider rim.
On a 20mm rim the smallest tyre I would run would be a 28mm, on a 23mm i'd probably wouldn't go below 32mm. But trust me you are going to like the bigger tyres better even on pavement.
 
#16 ·
Did you end up getting a Thunderhawk or the Beaux Jaxon ?
I'm seriously considering the Beaujaxon.

What i want is a bike that can handle 50c tyres for bikepacking events such as this: The B.O.U.N.C.E.

but i also want something versatile enough that I can throw some skinny wheels and tyres on and ride it on the road in winter. I realise it won't be as fast as a pure road bike but that just means i need to work a bit harder when riding on the road with mates which should only help with fitness and being faster when i do get back on the pure road bike in the summer.

Any advice would be welcome before I press the button on ordering the frame set from bearclaw.

Thanks
 
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