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Bb7 Inner Knob

1220 Views 11 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Dremer03
i replaced my 5 years old bb7s with some new black ones. Bad part is the inner knob on both new brakes is really hard to turn even with the new bigger knobs while the old ones the knob turns freely any body else having this issue?
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I use a torx with a longer extension through the spokes to turn.
HeyitsDave said:
I use a torx with a longer extension through the spokes to turn.
Yeah, thanks.

I wont be able to accidentally take the knob of by doing this right?
Thats was the problem

I took pliers to the inner nob on my new bb7 and the knob was so hard to turn the plastic broke i had to send it back wonder if avid has a problem they don't know about. I thought about lubing it but so close to the pads lube could contaminate them.Ill try the trox next pliers are a bad idea.
I did notice the same problem --- but it seems to loosen up after a while (took me good 10 attempts to get the alignment right - hence a lot of fiddling with the inner pad) it does move much easier now - just give it some time
The inner pad dial does stick somewhat at times on all my BBDB/BB7s, although for me it's usually more about the access to the dial as they're hard to access with the spokes so close (taking the wheel off can make it much easier even if the mechanism is a bit sticky). It is a nice feature of the newer BB7s to allow the use of the torx wrench (and it won't take the dial off).
Hi Dave(s),

I have no experience with new BB7s, but I know a bit about the older model, which appears to share a very similar caliper mechanism 'under the hood'. So on that basis, here's my theory:
  • I think the inboard pad-adjuster knob broke because excessive torque was applied.
  • And that knob was stiff because the screw-thread on the inboard pressure-foot was binding or siezed.
I've seen a similar thing on older BB7s as well. My trick is to apply 1-2 drops of Pro-gold, Tri-flow or similar lube onto the pressure-foot thread, being careful not to get any onto the pads. I find this procedure is easiest to do with the pads removed (ie. initially when installing the caliper, then repeat whenever the pads are being replaced). Since learning this trick, I've found pad adjustment to be much easier.

Hope this helps
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sounds good

When the new one arrives i will try the lube method you described.
It is not because it needs lube or it's tight or whatever. It is just EASIER to adjust through the spokes with a long torx. I can feel the detents of the adjuster rather than feeling the skin coming off my fingers from wedging them in the spokes trying to turn that knob.
Oh, thanks bro. That's good to know, as I've been considering whether it's worth buying a new BB7 just for spares and backup purposes.
I adjusted mine tonight with a crescent wrench on the head of the Torx Bolt.
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