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Giddy Up!
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157 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In an attempt to convert my 6yr old HT to single speed, I need to remove the original square taper inboard bottom bracket for two reasons.

1. It is end of life.. Worn out.
2, The front mech is held on behind the right drive side BB mount.

The problem is it will NOT come loose and now the notches are burring so much so that when you put leverage force to loosen it the BB adaptor tool just slips out. (NB. I cannot use a QR skewer to hold it in as it is not a Hollowtech).

I have tried both sides, left non-drive rotating counter clockwise and right drive side rotating clockwise to loosen.. Have also used some pipe on the wrench for more leverage. Still stuck. I have sprayed it with WD-40 as well. :madman:

I do not have a vice either..

:confused: What next?
 

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Try a more aggressive penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Wrenchforce Slippery Spray. Soak threads overnight.

What type of BB tool are you using? If its a isis-style socket, try getting a really long pipe (I used a LB60 thule load bar!) and a freind. Have the freind hold the socket in place with all his might while you carefully and slowly rotate the pipe. The longer lever arm provides an extra degree of control and slowness which helps keep the socket in place.

Further, are you sure you are rotating the correct direction and actually loosening the threads? The right sideis typically reverse-threaded (rght loosey lefty tighty) for ISO and English bottom brackets.
 

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Wrench-O-Phile
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262 Posts
Since you can't use a QR to hold the tool in place, try and get a long bolt from your local hardware store and thread that into the crank arm. My bet is that once the tool is held firmly in place you can really put a lot of torque on the BB.

(assuming the BB tool interface isn't already to screwed up)

What's the frame made out of?

Tapping lightly on the BB shell with a hammer can help any penetrating oil you use go deeper as well.
 

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caak said:
.....I cannot use a QR skewer to hold it in as it is not a Hollowtech)....I do not have a vice either..

:confused: What next?
1. Give a squirt of some sort of penetrating oil or liquid wrench. 2. Go to your Autoparts store or Harbor freight tools and get a 6" c-clamp used for compressing disc brake calipers, clamp onto the socket and the other side of the BB, use a 12" crescent or bigger if you got and step on it. Make sure you are turning everything in the right direction.
 

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troubled economist
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591 Posts
Buck268 said:
Further, are you sure you are rotating the correct direction and actually loosening the threads? The right sideis typically reverse-threaded (rght loosey lefty tighty) for ISO and English bottom brackets.
x2. It doesn't seem right, but it is... Park does a good job of explaining it.
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=106

And agreed on using something other than WD-40 to soak it for a while, PB Blaster is my fav. Might be able to get a large vise-grips or pipe wrench on the edge of the BB if worse comes to worse.
 

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Banned
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WD40 doesn't work. Others have mentioned what does. Additionally, you might have to cycle it a few times with a hair dryer, alternating on the BB itself and the shell. This helps break the corrosion and allows the oil to penetrate.

WHat I've also found works on siezed items, from bleeder valves to bb's, is to alternate back and forth with tightening and loosening. For some reason, tightening works and helps prevent snapped bolts. Don't go too far, obviously.
 

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Giddy Up!
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157 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
GOT IT!! :thumbsup:

Thanks for all the tips.

In the end using the crank bolt with a large washer to hold the BB tool in place and using a pipe on the wrench did it in the end.

The left non drive side unscrewed the whole bracket. It was a Truvativ XR bracket from an Avanti Montari 2002 model.

The SS project continues on!
:D
 

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turtles make me hot
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11,755 Posts
A few years ago, my buddy who owns a bike shop couldn't remove an old cup style bottom bracket from a steel frame. He asked me if I could do anything with it. I asked if the cups needed to be saved, he said no. I took it to my shop, welded a big nut to the bearing cup and while it was hot, turned it out with a wrench. It woulda never come out any other way.
 
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