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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So on my 2012 Marin Palisades Trail my bottom bracket just sounds like death. According to bikepedia it's a Truvativ Powerspline. I would like to change it myself and this would be my first time doing it. Obviously whatever new bottom bracket I get needs to have a spline to run the same cranks, right? In your opinion what tool should I purchase? Anything else you think I should know? Thanks.
 

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You'll need the PARK TOOL CWP -7 UNIVERSAL CRANK PULLER SQUARE TAPER & SPLINED and if you have the inner retaining cup, you'll need the PARK BBT-22 BICYCLE OCTALINK ISIS BOTTOM BRACKET TOOL. I got mine from Ebay just yesterday, because I too am replacing the BB as well as the gears.
 

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Crank puller, bottom bracket socket (like the one pictured) and a Powerspline bb. Should do it. Drive side bb threads are reversed.
 

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Crank puller, bottom bracket socket (like the one pictured) and a Powerspline bb. Should do it. Drive side bb threads are reversed.
Yepp, the side with the gears need to be wrenched to the right to loosen. I wonder how many people ruined their BB's by wrenching the cups out wrong. That would suck and it pays to do some research(thanks to the internet)

I'll post this link again in case you didn't see it yet. Shows how to do the job properly and safely. Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Cartridge Bearing Type Bottom Bracket Service

Have fun.
 

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Also a tip is to squirt on some 3-N-1 light oil on the threads on the crank puller. Just to give it some lubrication and keep it's threads in top shape. Oil also protects from rust setting into the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I thought about it and that powerspline didn't even make it a year. I never had it serviced but I'm a weekend warrior at best so it's not like I was getting at it. Right now I have that powerspline and Sram s800 cranks with 3 rings 44/33/22t.

If I got this would it be even a moderate upgrade? Race Face Ride Crankset Oe 2010 > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

I know I'm not breaking the bank here. I could probably do with some new chain rings. If I did go that route I think I would just go with the 2 rings since I never use the 44t. Would the change to 22/32t effect anything negatively from my already 33t middle ring? And finally my last question, if I decided to use the raceface crankset would that 22t socket work on the race face external BB installation? Thanks guys.
 

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Obviously, you'll lower your middle ring (large ring if you get the 2-ring with bash) gearing just a small amount with one less tooth. Not enough of a difference to notice much.

No, the cartridge socket that you use for the Powerspline bb will not work with the external cups of the RF. You'll need an external cup tool. Sorry, more tools but you'll have it when you build, service or replace anything with externals.

The RF set gets good reviews and should be lighter than your current set. I'd say it's a good, inexpensive option for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok, thanks. NP, I'll need the tool anyway I plan on getting that same crank set for a SS build I'm doing anyway. Which leads me to another thought.

Say I got this 22/32 chainring crankset for my 3x10. What if I ditched the granny to run a 1x10. Would I have any mechanical issues with my long cage x7 rear derailleur? I would shorten the chain and get a chain guide correct?
 

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I went through this a week or so ago. Besides the Bike Hand 20 tooth socket mentioned above, I got these:
Park Crank Puller CCP-22:
Park Tool CCP-22 Crank Puller for Square Taper Cranks
Shimano TL-FC34 BB9000 Bottom Bracket Cup Tool:
Shimano TL FC34 BB9000 Bottom Bracket Cup Tool | eBay
Nashbar Integrated BB Tool Item #BN-IBTSB:
https://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/...wd0s=&ddkey=https:PBSearchTermAssociationsCmd
The Shimano socket for installing the new outer cups allows for proper torque, using a torque wrench. I got the Nashbar open-ended wrench in case I needed one. You probably don't need both, but I figured what-the-heck?
 
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