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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been using BB-5 brakes for a couple of years and tolerating a lot of ugly noise from the front brake. Originally, Ibex thought it was a warped rotor and they sent me a replacement. My LBS insisted the rotor wasn't warped and the brake needed proper adjustment. Once fixed, the brake was fine until I got home and it started grinding again. Another LBS insisted the same thing . . they fixed it, and it started grinding again in the parking lot. We DID change the rotor. Same problem.

When I lightly pull the brake lever, the sound is just awful. Sounds like a looose part vibrating. Sometimes, the noise starts during a ride. A quick pull on the brake lever usually fixes it. The back brake doesn't do this. It's also not always convenient to do a quick pull on the brake.

I look at the brake and I can see the rotor in place and parallel to the pads. If I put a quick pull on the lever, often I'll then see the outermost pad no longer parallel to the rotor -- the leading edge (front of the bike) will be much closer to the rotor even touching it. With another quick pull, the pad is again parallel to the rotor. The back brake does not appear to do this.

The front brake also pulses when it's pulled hard and even then.

It is possible for the outer pad to be loose? LBS still insists that's not the problem, but I can't keep paying them for service that doesn't fix anything. Recommendations?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just to follow-up on my own post . . .

I have read the other threads on this topic including performing the alignment with the paper spacer. The same problem appears . . . Just seems that if that outer pad doesn't stay parallel to the rotor (and doesn't return to where it started after a brake pull) that no adjustment is going to help.

I'm not above replacing the brake if that will clear this up.
 

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I've had problems in the past with noise from my BB5 brakes. I've also found that the brakes can be adjusted to reduce or eliminate the noise.
First loosen both CPS bolts a couple turns.
turn the inboard adjuster knob so that the inboard pad is centered in the rotor slot.
lightly apply the brake so the pads are firmly contacting the rotor yet you are still able to turn the wheel.
Now this is were you need three hands, while lightly holding the brake lever (I have found a rubber band wrapped around the lever and the handle bar to be helpful)turn the wheel in the normal direction of travel, and tighten the CPS bolts to spec. torque.
Then back off the inboard adjuster knob one to two clicks.
I don't know why it works I just know it works, I performed this adjustment over three weeks ago and I haven't heard a peep from my brakes since.

Best of luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I haven't replaced the pads, but these brakes have squeaked ever since I got the bike.

I've tried the Avid instructions and the alternate method. I'll try centering the adjustable pad first which I think is a little different than the . Often I adjust them to be quiet and they start squealing again when I go around a corner. Not stable at all.

Maybe I'll try a pad replacement if that doesn't work. Of course, BB-7s are only about $45 at a few places so that's another option.
 

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sfhubbard said:
Maybe I'll try a pad replacement if that doesn't work. Of course, BB-7s are only about $45 at a few places so that's another option.
Thats actually a good consideration, if the BB5 caliper you have is defective replacing the pads will not resolve your problem & now your out $20 on pads. For $30 more you can have new BB7's. :thumbsup:

http://www.spadout.com/b/Avid/mechanical-disc-brake-system/
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Problem solved. $48 for BB7s at PerformanceBike. My year-long brake nightmare is over. Took about 15 minutes to change the caliper, and the bike stops on a dime now. Of course, when it stopped that fast first time, I almost ended up on the concrete in front of it.

In fact, if I see a good deal on rear BB7s, I may replace that one too. It's a much better design than the BB5.


Note that I didn't need to change the rotor -- bolts were all tight.

Thanks!
 
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