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I set them all in the middle and then set spring rate, planning to do the tuning on the ride.

First, I check LSR, since it's mostly related to spring rate. Can test on curbs to get close to "critical" damping. If I have a linear spring rate, I set LSR more closed/slower. If I got a progressive spring rate, I set it more open/faster. The higher/firmer the spring rate, the more closed/slower I set LSR.

LSC and HSC I tend to use to adapt my spring curve to be a way I like. Theoretically, if it's a progressive curve, I tend to run more LSC and less HSC. If it's a coil-like curve, I tend to run less LSC and more HSC. In reality, I will run quite a lot of LSC and leave HSC factory, and just tweak the spring rate curve until it's just right, since this is how I did things on suspension without adjustable damping and the habits stuck.*

HSR only really comes into the equation when I find a G-out to play on. I will go into it faster and faster, find the *juuuuuust right* setting to get it so my bike doesn't bounce me violently out of the G-out. Will tend to run more HSR with a progressive spring curve, and less with linear.

I make sure I do all my testing out-of-the-saddle in the position I use when riding at my limits.

* some exceptions: I got a '19 Lyrik RC2 and felt that it had hardly any LSC, so I took out all the tokens and pumped up the air to be about 20 psi above recommended. It still bobbed and dived more than I liked... one of the few times I've considered an aftermarket damping solution. '15 Fox 36 RC2 kind of felt overdamped with both LSC and HSC fully counterclockwise, but all my complaints faded away when it came time to rail--it was allowing riding way faster than any bike with that travel amount had any right to ride. It worked, so I didn't try fixing it, until it developed a creaky crown.
 

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Spring pressure for sag and tokens/volume spacers for progression. All damping is run full open for this. Then rebound. After that is LSC, I like just enough to minimize pedaling bob while seated. HSC I set by bracketing while riding.

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This is really good. Jordi's guide starts at about 4 minutes in.

Slightly off-topic to the thread but I was fascinated by Jordi's comment (around the 3 minute mark) that they set up bikes to feel good at full race speed, and don't feel as good when riders are only going 90-95%.
That's because race speed is putting a lot more energy into the suspension, hitting everything harder and moving at a pace where other instabilities cannot be noticed.

Virtually all the tunes I do are what I call "sport" tunes. Because race tunes suck if you're not racing. They beat the crap out of you.

Try commuting to work in a race car. You'll hate it.
 

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