Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking at replacing my factory handlebars, way too long. Cutting them does not appear to be an option I am told due to the varying thickness of the bar, and re-placement of the shifters/brakes. Ideas?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Before you purchase new bars just slide your shifters,brake levers and grips over as far as you can and ride it like that. You may have to trash a set of grips (or at least poke a hole in each one for the handlebar to come through). If you do cut them and you run bar ends, be sure to check with the manufacturer on weather you can still use the bar ends once you cut the bar.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,706 Posts
Whoever told you about different bar thickness doesn't know what they
are talking about :rolleyes: .
Besides , what are the odds of you finding the length you want off the shelf ?
Manufacturers don't make that many different lengths .
They purposely make them on the long side so consumers can cut them
to their personal preferences .
In the area of the grip (only spot you would be cutting) it is all the same
whether it is an aluminum , carbon or 31.8 bar .
Don't make cutting your bars sound more difficult then it is .
If you can cut a raw carrot , you can cut your handlebars .
Measure twice , cut once .
Some bars actually have measuring marks on them so use them for
reference .
The ideal cutting tool is a plumbers pipe cutter .
Only use top end ones as I have found the cheaper ones fail to hold a straight
line while cutting .
I just use a hack saw with fine cutting blade (high tooth count) .
Don't worry about the end cut being 100% straight/flat as you can always
level it out with a few passes with a file .
You don't have to cut the end of your grips off to get them off either .
On the opposite end of the grip (that faces the brakes/shifter) , pry the
end up with a narrow slotted screwdriver . Leave it in there and then
spray in some WD 40 (get the straw in as deep as you can ) and twist
a couple of times and pull it off .
Before re-install of grip , clean the remaining lubricant off bar and inside of grip .
Put everything back on and take the bike for a ride or two before deciding if you
like it or want to remove more .

Now get to work :p ;)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
ccaddy I think when he was tlking about the thickness he was about not being able to move the shifters and brakes over far enough. As I'm sure you know, on an oversized bar you cannot move your shifters and brake lever over as far as you can on most standard bars (depending on the bend/shape of the bar. That's why i told him to cut the end off his grips, so he could slide everything over and test it out before he cuts it. He may need to get a different shaped bar to achieve what he's looking for. Also, if your going to tell people to use pipe cutters on their bars, be sure to let them know that is only for Aluminum bars. Carbon bars should not be with a pipe cutter. The best tool for removing grips is an air compressor.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,706 Posts
I guess in the original post , instead of thicker , the word wider should have been used ;)
My reply was in relation to the "thickness" of the bar .

In retrospect , I read too fast and replied too quickly :madman:

I agree the air compressor works well (mine does) but I bet you a bag of donuts that you will find WD 40 in more houses then you will air compressors .

My thinking was that if Medic didn't have the skill to use a hand saw , that he wouldn't
own an air compressor .

Pipe cutter (you are correct ) is only for aluminum bars .
Carbon bars - saw only and don't forget to wrap the area of the cut with masking tape to
prevent the blade from "skating" off line .

All in all , some good tips in this thread .:thumbsup:
I like the hair dryer idea , that's a good one :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Another tip

For what it's worth, to remove the grips I pry a narrow bladed screwdriver (as already posted) but simply use a syringe to squirt a bit of water in there, or even use your water bottle to squirt water.

Twist it around for one sec and out it comes - no need to clean anything, and if the grip is still damp you can simply slide it back on - when the water dries, the grip will not move.

My only concern using WD40 on a rubber grip is the possible residue and the effect it may have on the rubber (short and long term), but I must admit I've never tried it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Something about putting lube on something that I don't want to slide, just doesn't work in my brain. Or stabbing my carbon bars or thin aluminum bars with a screwdriver, is that a good idea? Air compressors are not that much money these days, and if buying one is not an option ask around, one of your friends probably have one you can use. If your grips don't have holes in them they pretty much just fly off.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Tip for cutting carbon bars..........

I used my Yeti lockons as a guide.....i tightened the grip collar where i wanted the grips to be.....this left about 1 inch of carbon bar hanging out the end to be cut....

I then got the other lock on and put it on the bar butted up to the first grip but with just enough gap for the hacksaw blade to fit in......

A perfect saw guide for a straight cut.......

Cut around the bar it different places.....NOT just down in the same direction.....then finish with i little sand papper........:thumbsup:
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top