It's all personal I'm afraid. I tried 710mm Gravity DH carbon and liked it; and have stuck with it since. Would prolly try a 760mm (30") at some point.
Bar width for AM riding
Thinking of upgrading bars from stock and wondering what width I should go with. Currently thinking of going extra-wide, since I can always chop em later.
I ride uphill then down. I also like slow technical terrain.
I ride uphill then down. I also like slow technical terrain.
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I'm running Transition T Bar 30's on 3 of my bikes and really like them. The sunline 29.5's are super comfy as well.
My advice. Ride whatever bars you get for a month or so before you decide to do touch them. Before you cut them down, ride another bike with bars that you used to "love". You'll be surprised how much you like the wider bars. I was really glad I didn't end up cutting mine down.
EB
My advice. Ride whatever bars you get for a month or so before you decide to do touch them. Before you cut them down, ride another bike with bars that you used to "love". You'll be surprised how much you like the wider bars. I was really glad I didn't end up cutting mine down.
EB
Even on my pure XC bikes, I'm not running anything narrower than a 710 any more. I agree with EB about putting the wide bars on and then taking some time to get used to them. I bought some 29.5 Sunlines about a year and a half ago and only rode them at full width for a couple days and then cut them down. These days I have 777's (approx 30.5") on 2 of my bikes and 28/28.5 on the rest. Even x-ups are no problem on the wide bars once you get used to them. My reason for running some of the bars at closer to 28" is that some of our trails have extremely tight trees. Otherwise, I'd probably go wider on those bikes (and just might anyway).
Got a new AM hartail on the way from Chromag now and will probably run 30's on it.
Got a new AM hartail on the way from Chromag now and will probably run 30's on it.
Depends on the rest of the bike too. On a couple of my bikes, 64 to 66 cm is about right. On a third (slacker geometry, shorter stem) 71 cm is about right fore me.
If you think you might want to cut the bar, check that the straight sections of the bar are long enough to move grips and levers towards the center.
If you think you might want to cut the bar, check that the straight sections of the bar are long enough to move grips and levers towards the center.
I'd say it depends on your trails: tights trees mostly. I run 710mm and I would go even wider but I'm having a bit of trouble already with the trees.
After running 710mm's on my 5.5" bike for about 6 months I test rode a Firebird but that thing had 680mm bars on. That's what I used to have, and I should have felt more confident on that bike with slacker angles and more travel but the whole one hour ride I was feeling shaky because of the 30mm narrower bars
After running 710mm's on my 5.5" bike for about 6 months I test rode a Firebird but that thing had 680mm bars on. That's what I used to have, and I should have felt more confident on that bike with slacker angles and more travel but the whole one hour ride I was feeling shaky because of the 30mm narrower bars
I just put a wider set of 27" bars (685mm) on my C-Dale, which isn't super-wide, but are about 4-5" wider than what I had on there before. The difference is unbelievable in the control and stability I have on the bike. There are a couple sections where I have to be much more careful through some trees (and I mashed into one yesterday, nearly catapulting myself to the ground) but generally speaking, it's not that big of a deal.
I'm a big fan of the mike king method, have someone hold your bike up, sit on the bike in full gear, close your eyes and lean forward to grab your bars.
cut about 1 inch or so outside the edge of where your hands landed.
It's worked pretty well for me so far.
(note: if you body's natural riding position put your hands a couple inches in front of or behind where your bars are... might want to get a different stem!)
cut about 1 inch or so outside the edge of where your hands landed.
It's worked pretty well for me so far.
(note: if you body's natural riding position put your hands a couple inches in front of or behind where your bars are... might want to get a different stem!)
Here's another concept to think about.
For pure DH purposes, think of bar width like your base when doing a push up. It’s easier to do a push up with a wider base than putting your hands in close together. The extra leverage on the bars for descending allows you to maintain better control when the front wheel wants to deflect somewhere else and you don’t get as tired because your “base” is in a better position to suck up the undulating terrain.
One thing to consider, however, is how a wider reach affects your position on a bike. In some cases (going out a bunch), the wider stance could bring your body slightly forward and that might mean going to a shorter stem length to get you in a more comfortable position. You can’t really tell until you ride the bike like that for a bit though. As a result, a big change in bar width could mean a stem change as well.
On my SS Trans Am, the wider bars are a help because I mostly climb out of the saddle and the extra leverage on the bars is really nice. Our trails aren't super tight so I rarely clip my bars on stuff. YMMV.
EB
For pure DH purposes, think of bar width like your base when doing a push up. It’s easier to do a push up with a wider base than putting your hands in close together. The extra leverage on the bars for descending allows you to maintain better control when the front wheel wants to deflect somewhere else and you don’t get as tired because your “base” is in a better position to suck up the undulating terrain.
One thing to consider, however, is how a wider reach affects your position on a bike. In some cases (going out a bunch), the wider stance could bring your body slightly forward and that might mean going to a shorter stem length to get you in a more comfortable position. You can’t really tell until you ride the bike like that for a bit though. As a result, a big change in bar width could mean a stem change as well.
On my SS Trans Am, the wider bars are a help because I mostly climb out of the saddle and the extra leverage on the bars is really nice. Our trails aren't super tight so I rarely clip my bars on stuff. YMMV.
EB
I am going to be getting some 30" bars soon and will report back at what I think about them, but with a 54" chest, I think I will be in love.
Running 711's on my Nomad, but just ordered BooBar w/20mm rise, 780mm wide.
Good advice. Any suggestions on bars? I have the stock bars on my Enduro (see link)
http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=47075&menuItemId=9305&eid=5135
I want wider (up to 31") without drastically changing the rest of the dimensions. I definitely don't want to go wider AND significantly lower. I'm ok with aluminum or carbon, and I don't mind a little "bling", in fact, that might be good.
Maybe these, with 30mm rise
http://www.sram.com/en/truvativ/freeridedownhillpremium/boobar/boobar.php
http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=47075&menuItemId=9305&eid=5135
I want wider (up to 31") without drastically changing the rest of the dimensions. I definitely don't want to go wider AND significantly lower. I'm ok with aluminum or carbon, and I don't mind a little "bling", in fact, that might be good.
Maybe these, with 30mm rise
http://www.sram.com/en/truvativ/freeridedownhillpremium/boobar/boobar.php
The BooBar does not look bad... Actually it looks a lot like the Holzefeller I have on one bike, except longer. I ended up cutting that one to about 660 mm to work for me on that bike.
The weight is not bad for the strength and length either.
The weight is not bad for the strength and length either.
if you're used to riding narrow bars, you're going to reach out in a manner to grab narrow bars.byknuts said:I'm a big fan of the mike king method, have someone hold your bike up, sit on the bike in full gear, close your eyes and lean forward to grab your bars.
cut about 1 inch or so outside the edge of where your hands landed.
It's worked pretty well for me so far.
(note: if you body's natural riding position put your hands a couple inches in front of or behind where your bars are... might want to get a different stem!)
when you go to a wider bar, you gotta give yourself some time to get used to it. the first ride i swore i was going to go home and chop the hell out of mine. i didnt, and ended up loving the extra width!
i have shorter arms though, i dont think i could physically ride 30 inch bars. gotta go as wide as you feel comfy on.
Sunline V-One OS bar. rise, up, and back sweep are nearly identical to the specialized bars on the enduros. I've got the dark grey on my Enduro SL.
I have a '10 Enduro. Just put Deity Dirty-30 bars on. Very nice.
I think this is what i'm going to do.Blatant said:I have a '10 Enduro. Just put Deity Dirty-30 bars on. Very nice.
If it were not for tight trees I would prefere wide.
I just built up a RIP and wanted to try wide bars. I bought a used Syncros Bulk (27.5") and it opened my eyes. I did notice that I was riding with the end of the grip in the middle of my palm so I bought a pair of Race Face Atlas FR bars (31") I have only ridden them around the block so far but the width feels perfect. I will know today after my ride!
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