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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I didn't notice it before. But after I started making adjustments to my 5th shock (air pressure, preload, etc), I noticed vertical play when you lift the rear end by the saddle. I don't know if it's from making the adjustments or not. But there's play. Can't tell exactly which pivot it's playing at. All pivot bolts on the shock seem tight, except the main rocker pivot on the seat stay. The main rocker bolt seems to turn freely - that is, turn one side and the other side turns too.

Any Scream owners experience vertical play? Is it normal?
 

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Maybe you have worn your shock DU bearings....check if the shocks moves when you pull from the saddle...the shock will have a little play between it and the pivot...tell us what happens
 

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I never experienced any play in my linkage for the year and a half that I rode my Scream. I would suggest pulling the shock out and seeing if the reducers fit snuggly into the eyelets. If they don't and they seem loose you may have worn DU bushings. Otherwise torque the linkage bolts to spec. You did mention that the main rocker pivot bolt is not completely tight. You may need to replace the plastic bushing and then torque the bolt down again (both side simultaneously). I hope this helps. If all else fails, drop Banshee an email or give them a call. They are pretty good with this type of issue.

Simon
 

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also if it uses aluminum eyelet reducers, they can become ovalised. I would suggest getting a steel reducer kit if they make one, it'll also wear your bushings more slowly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, I took off the shock. So the bushing is the part that goes through the shock eyelets right. And the reducers are the ones that slide over the bushings right.

There's not too much play with the reducers. But when I stick the bolts back through the bushing, there's play. Both top and bottom bolts. The bolts should fit snug in the bushings correct?

I think I need to send the shock in for servicing anyway. I guess they'll change the bushings at the same time. I'll check in with progressive. And check if they have steel reducers.

This is not a major issue right. I want to take one ride before I send in the shock. Anyone know what the bolts should be torqued at? I did email banshee about this, but probably won't get an answer until after the weekend.
 

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dirtmerchant said:
This is not a major issue right. I want to take one ride before I send in the shock. Anyone know what the bolts should be torqued at?
Torque is for pussies and those fools at NASA. Just crank it down till somethin breaks free, that snap means its locked in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
mtbman4 said:
Torque is for pussies and those fools at NASA. Just crank it down till somethin breaks free, that snap means its locked in.
Meow. I've heard that snap before. Right after I cracked my RF crank arm when I was cranking down the crank bolt with just my shear strength.

BTW, I did put the shock back on. Now there's no play...for now. What could explain this :confused:
 

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I had the same problem with my chaparral... I replaced the shock bushings, but the problem continued. it turned out to be the piston of my shock unthreading because of a bad set of rocker plates. Check to see they are true at the shock mounts looking from the top. Put a different shock in there. bolt the bottom shock pivot on first, then bring the top of the shock up to the rockers. if both sides of the bushing dont engage the rockers at the same time, they may be bent. I hope it is just normal bushing wear, though. I did not read all of the posts so if the problem was already solved, awesome! lol good luck
 

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funny, everybody mentions DU bushings, but in my experience ovalization of the shock mounts is way more common, and is what is going to give you the "play"....

DU bushings wear out, but they are very easy to check for wear and how "tight" they are...
 
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