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Hey guys I just finish my newest teeter totter creation took me 3 or 4 hours and it looks like it is gona be fun (got the idea from a guy on the forum a while ago). I still have to put the rod in for the teeter totter to bob on, but here it is. And what eles would be kick arse to put in the backyard any ideas? And I am in the process of making a rotating seasaw same latter design as this on but a swivel. If anyone of you have made a rotating teeter totter please tell me how you did it. I was think of just going to walmart and getting a swivel seat for fishing and just using the swivel. Ideas please!!!!
 

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god damit, where you live????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
 

· Chatham NJ
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damn ??? marks stretching out the page.


That looks pretty sweet.
My friends set up a temporary teeter with a 8-10ish ft long board, just pivoting on his rail he grinds on his bmx bike.
ajw- For a permanent setup like that, for the pivot, you could drill a hole through the middle of the teeter and side supports, then use something like a rod for it to pivot on.
Make sure the starting side weights more so it pivots back.
 

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ezweave said:
This is the pivot IMBA has in their trailbuilding guide. It is actually from the "big" teeter at Keystone. Maybe this will help:
thats a very popular design for see-saws...it works very well and is very sturdy...not to mention it holds weight well also...

my see-saw doesnt have anything connecting it or securing it to anything at the moment...its weight alone keeps it where i want it...but when i build a new one thats the design i shall use...well not literally but the concept will be used...
 

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BJ- said:
thats a very popular design for see-saws...it works very well and is very sturdy...not to mention it holds weight well also...

my see-saw doesnt have anything connecting it or securing it to anything at the moment...its weight alone keeps it where i want it...but when i build a new one thats the design i shall use...well not literally but the concept will be used...
How do you drill a hole like that? Sorry im not good with tools...
 

· n00b eternal
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If you do it with one large hole... well that just isn't the best idea. You'll notice that in the Keystone pic, the bottom uses two boards to support each side -> this is where the most stress is placed on the pipe and, where most of the friction is. The top is only there to keep it from moving out of place (some friction, but the force from friction is reduced to what is imposed from the pipe and the board touching, not the board itself, ie no m*g). But one large hole will create more friction on the top. I'd have to work the math, but the bottom might be about the same...due to larger surface area. In addition, cutting the board in the center will give you less support, unless you use two boards and/or one very wide board.

Also, if you want to use two seperate boards, a whole cutter (like in the earlier post) won't work for edge cuts (unless you use a template and a drill press). Hole cutters also have the limit of width they can cut through (the cutter gets a plug the size you just cut). So they can only go as deep as they are in one pass.

A side benefit from the extra space is that the pipe can cool faster (not that they need that at Keystone). Additionally it is easier to take apart.
 
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